Brakes: '64 Cruiser brake rehab

[mausersmth]

Just rebuilt the rear wheel cylinders in my '64 Cruiser with the Bendix (disk) brakes. Ran into two problems, first, couldn't get my hone into that tiny 3/4 inch bore, and there were enough pits in there I don't think I could get them all out anyway! I plan on ordering new cylinders as these will probably start leaking soon.

Should I have the old cylinders sleeved and keep them for the next brake job?

I've got a leaking caliper up front, assuming I should replace all four. Anyone sleeve these?

Drums and rotors look good, but I'm cutting and bending new steel lines and replacing all brake hoses. I want new metallic pads for the front. What's a good source for these?

Anything else I should look at? Master cylinder is about two years old and booster was rebuilt since then.
Thanks!

[JDP]

Just rebuilt the rear wheel cylinders in my '64 Cruiser with the Bendix (disk) brakes. Ran into two problems, first, couldn't get my hone into that tiny 3/4 inch bore, and there were enough pits in there I don't think I could get them all out anyway! I plan on ordering new cylinders as these will probably start leaking soon.

Should I have the old cylinders sleeved and keep them for the next brake job?

I've got a leaking caliper up front, assuming I should replace all four. Anyone sleeve these?

Drums and rotors look good, but I'm cutting and bending new steel lines and replacing all brake hoses. I want new metallic pads for the front. What's a good source for these?

Anything else I should look at? Master cylinder is about two years old and booster was rebuilt since then.
Thanks!

The rear cylinders for disk brake cars are about $75 each, sleeving cost about as much. The disks are the problem, maybe $400 to sleeve them all, and that gets close to a Turner brake conversion.

[Warren Webb]

John raises a good point. Turner brakes are equal only around in cost. As far as performance goes, they are superior. Also parts are more widely available especially if you want to get metallic pads, since they wear rotors more & the Stude rotors would cost alot more. With the rear wheel cylinders I'd go with sleeving in stainless. Costs of replacements will only go up until they dry up alltogether whereas if they are sleeved the only thing needed then would be rebuild kits, which could be bought & stored.

[WCP]

If you go the Turner route upfront, then consider having the rear cylinders bored to 13/16" and acquire the necessary pistons and cups, which should be readily available. This assumes you can get them bored inexpensively. That is what I'm using in my Avanti - better front/rear brake balance without a proportioning valve.

[Pat Dilling]

www.rockauto.com lists the following for a '64 Cruiser for 27.79, and you can usually find a discount code to reduce the price further:

WAGNER Part # WC40963 More Information About this Part {#F40963}
Rear; w/drum/drum brakes; 7/8" Bore

They also list the following for the Front for $1 more

WAGNER Part # WC19236 More Information About this Part {#F19236}
Front; 1-1/16" Bore

[JDP]

www.rockauto.com lists the following for a '64 Cruiser for 27.79, and you can usually find a discount code to reduce the price further:

WAGNER Part # WC40963 More Information About this Part {#F40963}
Rear; w/drum/drum brakes; 7/8" Bore

They also list the following for the Front for $1 more

WAGNER Part # WC19236 More Information About this Part {#F19236}
Front; 1-1/16" Bore

Those won't even bolt in on a disk brake car, and the bores are also wrong.

[N8N]

correct rear wheel cyl for disc brake car should be Wagner 41451 if my info is correct. definitely should be 3/4" bore not 7/8"

nate

[bezhawk]

The Girling pads are metallic and work well. Dave T-bow sleeves the calipers reasonably.
Tom Rautio(sp) has adapters for the best brakes available on a Stude. Light weight PBR dual piston calipers and late model Mustang rotors. That will be available over the counter at your local parts house.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

If your talking about Tom Rautio from Lompoc, Ca. He's "sbca96"

[mausersmth]

Been pricing parts, looks like I can get the Turner Econo kit and source rotors, calipers, etc. local for what the calipers alone would cost me, or not much more. I hope to pick up another Stude after the South Bend '12 meet, so I'll hang on to the old parts until then. (A Bermuda Brown '64 ragtop would be nice!)