Engine: valve spring shims

[Paul Keller]

Have a '63 289 and the heads are now being completed by the engine machinist (after my moderate "cleaning-up"). Have been looking for valve spring shims that would fit into the bottom of the spring snubber - No luck. The machinist suggested placing the shim(s), if needed, under the snubber, which would allow the use of standard size shims.
My question is, will the "under-the-snubber" location allow the snubber to "walk" out of position ? There is only a 1/8 to 3/16 inch step to keep the snubber in place - The machinist does not think that a shim of 1/16 inch or less would cause a ploblem and that the step is not really needed to keep the snubber-spring in place. What are your experiences and opinions?

Also, there has been some discussion of standard force springs vs. heavy duty. Has anyone recently experienced excessive cam wear w/ the heavy duty springs. assuming the proper amount of zinc in the oil (1200 to 1500 ppm)?

Any veiwpoints and/or experience would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Paul TK

[Mike Van Veghten]

At .03"/ .06"...your machinest is correct.
I wouldn't put a shim between the spring and the damper, even if as you say, you can even find one small enough.

Mike

[PackardV8]

1. What seat pressure are you trying to achieve by shimming the used valve springs? I've got some NOS valve springs which might give you the pressure you need without shims and I'd let them go for $50 a set, including shipping.

2. The Stude V8 uses the same 11/32" valve stems as the SBC and a dozen other engines. There are readily available -.050" keepers which will position the retainer lower on the valve stem, thus raising the seat pressure. The lowered keeper accomplishes the same effect as a shim under the spring.

jack vines

[Paul Keller]

Thanks for the guidance. I want to use all new materials (except for the heads themselves) where possible, so I'll pass on the used springs - thanks for the offer. Rec'd a call that the heads are finished for pick-up Monday. Now the hard work, pulling the old '62 engine and installing the rebuilt '63.
Paul TK

[(S)]

Thanks for the guidance. I want to use all new materials (except for the heads themselves) where possible, so I'll pass on the used springs - thanks for the offer.

SOMEBODY IS NOT READING! NOS is Brand New, original old stock!

[Paul Keller]

Correct, I did misread. Are the springs standard rate or the higher rate "R1-R2"? My thinking now is that since other make engines use an even higher force spring w/ flat lifters, that the "R1-R2" should not pose a problem (am using the library's net, so I do not have the "R" spec's w/ me).
Thanks again, Paul TK

[Dan Timberlake]

The 59-64 manual says springs should test to 105 to 115 lbs when compressed to 1-43/64 inch.
I did not see the "installed height" of the springs in the manual. That is the dimension that should be used to determine what shims should be used on a stock engine.