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52 Champion Carter

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  • whacker
    replied
    Three words - electric fuel pump. Mount it back by the gas tank, out of sight, with a hidden switch under the dash. When you have trouble starting, turn it on and wait until it stops ticking. Turn it off, start the engine.

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  • JoeHall
    replied
    Sounds like a combo of heat & modern gas. You could carry a large electric house fan & extension cord in the trunk. Then, when you get to the cruise-in, nonchalantly plug in the fan and sit it in front of the radiator. Then, give it at least an hour with the fan blowing on it and it will probably start right up. Then, just as nonchalantly, return the fan to the trunk and drive away. Maybe nobody will even notice the fan.
    The above is in jest, but more true than not. The problem will probably persist till the weather turns cool. I guess Stude V8s aren't as bad as sixes, but they're still bad enough about hot restarts. I still have not tried the gallon or so of diesel in the tank, but some folks swear by that as a way to keep the gas from vaporizing out of the carb and then settling into the intake.

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  • poweroptions
    replied
    I called my mechanic friend minutes ago and he too said it's the gas. He said I should start putting 1-2 gallons of diesel in it everytime I filled up. You ever heard of that one? He said it would keep the fuel from vaporizing. He had my car Thurs. and said he can't find a damn thing wrong with anything. He has the info you gave me months ago, I had adjusted everything back then. He said it was close to perfect. I took the car to the cruise in Sat. and there I sat for a hour trying to get the bi_ch to start. It was hot since I drove it 35 miles. ps folloewd your rebuild blog, damn your motor and all is looking GREAT !

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  • JohnM15
    replied
    At least part of your problem is the stinking modern gas that is designed for a closed system (or more appropriately, not design for an "open system"). My carb boils after the engine gets to temperature and then shut off. With the anti-percolate valve set correctly, instead of the fuel boiling in the fuel bowl and then into the venturis, it boils out the anti-percolate valve and all over the outside of the carb.

    You may also have some variation of vapor lock where the fuel turns to vapor. Maybe that is why it is dry in the inlet carb strainer, the fuel just turned to vapor. There are a number of things that can help. Use the search function and search on "vapor lock".

    Meanwhile, I have been thinking of some solutions. I'm a retired engineer so I tend to think about design solutions. Of course the best solution is to make the system "closed". But that would force the use of fuel injection and a bit too radical for the vintage car. Here is a list of things I am considering:

    1. Bypass filter. Add a bypass filter just before the carb that recycles fuel back to the tank. This helps reduce fuel temperatures.
    2. Drain the fuel bowl when engine is shut off. This would be adding a port on the bottom of the carb bowl, an electric valve, and electric fuel pump. With engine shut down the valve would open and pump run for some period of time removing the fuel from the bowl back to the tank. Also adding an electric fuel pump to feed the carb would fill the carb bowl ready for starting.
    3. Fan on the carb being fed by outside air. The fan would come on when the engine is shut off for some period of time.

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  • poweroptions
    replied
    With Fall in the lower 100s and 145 days with no rain I thought it might be time to get the 52 Champion out before the world ends. I had the carb rebuilt a 2nd time by a sr. member here on the forum. Car starts great when cold, but I drive it 10 minutes it will not restart. I must sit for 30-45 minutes and let it cool down. It has good spark. I notice when I take the brass nut off for the strainer that it's dry in there, no gas. I fill it once or twice and maybe the ole girl will start before the cool down. What am I doing wrong?? thanks

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  • JohnM15
    replied
    You're welcome. Keep in mind that if you rebuild then you must do all these step in SEQUENCE. If you're just tweeking the one adjustment then that would probably be fine... Hope this fixes the problem, let us know if it does.

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  • poweroptions
    replied
    Originally posted by JohnM15 View Post
    Here is a copy of the rebuild instructions:

    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/13355828/Carb0001.pdf

    I had the name wrong, it should be the "Anti-Percolate Lever"...
    JOHN, THANKS! This diagram is alot easier to understand than the one in my Stude manual.

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  • JohnM15
    replied
    Here is a copy of the rebuild instructions:

    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/13355828/Carb0001.pdf

    I had the name wrong, it should be the "Anti-Percolate Lever"...

    Leave a comment:


  • JohnM15
    replied
    Originally posted by poweroptions View Post
    John how did you fix yours??
    If you follow the carb rebuild kit instructions of instructions in the repair manual it should be adjusted correctly, The anti-boil lever is mounted on top of the carb body under the removable cover (the cover that is held on with one screw). Lever should lift up opening the port that vents the fuel bowl to the atmosphere when the throttle is at idle.

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  • 41 Frank
    replied
    Consider sending it to Dave Thibeault in Mass. He is one of the best with Studebaker Carbs. His contact info is in Turning Wheels.

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  • poweroptions
    replied
    John how did you fix yours??
    Originally posted by JohnM15 View Post
    I had the same problem with my 1948 WE. The anti-boil level was adjust incorrectly. Basically, at idle (and especially when the engine is off), the fuel bowl is vented to atmosphere and closed when off idle. Modern carbs vent 24/7 to the airhorn so the issue is gone. This also compensates to a clogged air filter...

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  • poweroptions
    replied
    #*!K it, went to the cruise-in tonight and of course loads of folks love the Stude but of course go to start it and 20 minutes of grinding on the starter it finally starts. I'm really fed up with the carb. It really wears my a_s out. Where in this part of Texas is a carb man or where can I send this one out????????????????

    Leave a comment:


  • poweroptions
    replied
    Well it's been ongoing for a year. It's the only problem I ever have with the car. But starting is a primary function and it getting to be a bearcat more often than not lately. I have watched for a new carb on Ebay but haven't seen one in a year now. I'm in a small rural (east texas) town and let me tell ya nobody wants to work on old cars around here anymore. I have the 5 old cars and all of their shop manuals and wade thru this myself. Are there any good carb guys out here or around me?

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  • jclary
    replied
    Originally posted by poweroptions View Post
    OK, had the carb rebuilt by a SDC club member.
    I am sorry to say (being an SDC club member myself) this does not necessarily mean the carburetor was built correctly. These carbs were not exclusively used by Studebaker. You might do well to find someone with great carb building credentials. If he happens to be a member of the SDC... that's a bonus.

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  • tom301
    replied
    i just think if that dose not work just to buy a new carp

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