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'53 Commander Coupe - driveshaft is not the Beach Boys "Good Vibrations"

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  • irishjr
    replied
    The bearing was available at NAPA (No Auto Parts Available....JOKE!), but the bearing alone cost more than the '58-64 GM carrier bearing assembly, which uses the same bearing.

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  • junior
    replied
    Originally posted by HammondA100 View Post
    Hopefully it is OK and can be repacked but I may just get a new one.
    don't know about yours, but the one I took out, and the replacement one were both sealed type of bearings.

    Leave a comment:


  • HammondA100
    replied
    So far testing my 57 Hawk at about 55 MPH I too hear a shudder or what I would call a angry Tasmanian Devil sound from right below the seat only when I hit a bump in the road, then it goes away. Sounds just like a worn bearing shaking loosely but just for a moment...

    I thought that may be a bad center bearing though.. I'll be taking the drive shafts out for balancing but was wondering if this is a common bearing or only available through the Studebaker vendors? Hopefully it is OK and can be repacked but I may just get a new one.

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  • irishjr
    replied
    A friend found this and I thought I would post the link for others to try to understand some of the fine points of aligning driveshafts:

    http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

    Being as it is from Spicer, I think it is like getting it from the horse's mouth.

    OOPS! I now see that this link is already on the thread. Sorry!
    Last edited by irishjr; 05-01-2011, 08:02 AM.

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  • N8N
    replied
    Originally posted by johnod View Post
    Nate

    The only mention I found was in some of your older posts.
    Do you suppose it's a left over from the 53-4, 2 piece driveshaft parts bin?
    (If I understand correctly 55 is a single drive shaft?)

    Sounds very wrong, I'm surprised it works.
    But I'm often surprised.
    *MY* '55 is a one piece shaft, but they weren't that way from the factory until '58. However, if there's any difference in pinion angle between pre-58 and later RA housings, it's only a couple degrees.

    nate

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  • junior
    replied
    Originally posted by johnod View Post
    Junior this might be interesting to you.

    http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

    Sounds like all you have to do is shim rear to 4 degrees up, to match engine angle and you got it ?

    Will it clear the tunnell?
    What engine are you running?

    John
    Figure 9, pg 17 really caught my attention....pinion angle is NOT parallel to crankshaft angle, but IS parallel to the front driveshaft angle...wonder if this is the way Studebaker did it from the factory...very interesting, and learning every day. I had a quick look at this paper, but did not read it, will read later. Thanks so much. Junior

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  • johnod
    replied
    Junior this might be interesting to you.

    http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

    Sounds like all you have to do is shim rear to 4 degrees up, to match engine angle and you got it ?

    Will it clear the tunnell?
    What engine are you running?

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • johnod
    replied
    Nate

    The only mention I found was in some of your older posts.
    Do you suppose it's a left over from the 53-4, 2 piece driveshaft parts bin?
    (If I understand correctly 55 is a single drive shaft?)

    Sounds very wrong, I'm surprised it works.
    But I'm often surprised.

    Leave a comment:


  • N8N
    replied
    I don't think that's how it works in Studebaker-land, unfortunately. That's standard practice, but I think the pinion on a Stude actually is roughly parallel to the ground-ish, not up, so that the joint angle is equal front and rear, but the pinion and tailshaft are not parallel. DAGS for "broken back driveshaft" if my explanation wasn't clear.

    nate

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  • johnod
    replied
    Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK View Post
    Nose of pinion down ...nose of crank down.

    /= crank /= pinion

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  • DEEPNHOCK
    replied
    Nose of pinion down ...nose of crank down.

    /= crank /= pinion



    Originally posted by johnod View Post
    So crank down, pinion up is the way to go from what I understood from the article.

    Leave a comment:


  • johnod
    replied
    Originally posted by junior View Post
    2pce was last year, this year it's one of those new-fangeled ultra-light weight air shafts. Right now the car has no shaft as I'm working at a slower-than-a snail's pace on getting the 5spd. installed. Work, family, weather, taxes, health....you know life....keeps getting in the way. Got a new clutch kit and slave cylinder yesterday, hopefully get the flywheel faced next week so hopefully continue to move towards driveshaft issues soon. Junior.

    So crank down, pinion up is the way to go from what I understood from the article.

    Leave a comment:


  • junior
    replied
    Originally posted by johnod View Post
    Aren't you running a 2 piece drive shaft?
    2pce was last year, this year it's one of those new-fangeled ultra-light weight air shafts. Right now the car has no shaft as I'm working at a slower-than-a snail's pace on getting the 5spd. installed. Work, family, weather, taxes, health....you know life....keeps getting in the way. Got a new clutch kit and slave cylinder yesterday, hopefully get the flywheel faced next week so hopefully continue to move towards driveshaft issues soon. Junior.

    Leave a comment:


  • johnod
    replied
    Originally posted by junior View Post
    yup, that's what the Ridetech paper says, and it seems so 'wrong', so I think Pat said it well with his horizons being expanded...so have mine. If I try this with my car, I'm going to require 8 degrees of shimming to rotate the pinion to the required angle...that is way too much, I'd be surprised if I could even get 8 degree shims from the spring shop. I could also relocate my spring pads on the rearend, but I removed and re-located them two summers ago and really don't feel like doing that again just to experiment. still seems weird to me. Junior.
    Aren't you running a 2 piece drive shaft?

    Leave a comment:


  • junior
    replied
    Originally posted by johnod View Post
    Jeff

    Maybe i'm missing something, so let me know, if I am.

    I understand " same plane", left , right, up , down doesn't matter,got that.

    But if crank is down 4 degrees and pinion down 4 degrees, I don't see parallel.
    In the above case a line drawn/extended thru each centre line would eventually form a shallow V.

    If crank were down 4 degrees and pinion UP 4 degrees, I see parallel, lines drawn/extended thru centre line would never meet.
    Parallel.

    ?

    yup, that's what the Ridetech paper says, and it seems so 'wrong', so I think Pat said it well with his horizons being expanded...so have mine. If I try this with my car, I'm going to require 8 degrees of shimming to rotate the pinion to the required angle...that is way too much, I'd be surprised if I could even get 8 degree shims from the spring shop. I could also relocate my spring pads on the rearend, but I removed and re-located them two summers ago and really don't feel like doing that again just to experiment. still seems weird to me. Junior.

    Leave a comment:

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