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53 Coupe driveshaft support cross member

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  • Frame / Springs: 53 Coupe driveshaft support cross member

    I have a question about the above, firstly,my car has a one piece driveshaft.

    The above piece in my car has had the bottom cut out, and a small piece of strap bolted in place.

    Having looked at it, there doesn't seem to piece tieing it together above the drive shaft either.

    It does not support the floor of the car, considering all this, is this piece necassary?

    It does not appear to me to be offering any substantial bracing either to frame or floor,is there something i'm overlooking, or can it be removed safely?



  • #2
    Some folks remove that x member entirely when going to a 1 pc shaft. One my car, I also have a 1pc and needed to enlarge the hole for clearance. Those '53 frames need all the help they can get in my opinion so I welded additional metal on the top and bottom to make the hole oval for top/bottom clearance. Probably does not help a lot but any little bit is something.

    Jeff in ND


    • #3
      John, I agree with Jeff, even as thin as that crossmember is, I would beef it up a bit and leave it in. In fact I was contemplating the same question last week. Did you install a batwing crossmember in during the winter? IIRC, you have a SBC/T5 combo right? What driveshaft did you use, and does it ever hit the floor when you compress the rear suspension going over bumps? Just wondering what to do in my 54 as I put a T5 behind the SBC, but have yet to get to the driveshaft, and clutch linkage. Thanks, Junior
      1954 C5 Hamilton car.


      • #4
        I thought about making a driveshaft loop from tube and welding that in, but there is not enough room above the drive shaft for that.
        I'd have to use flat stock, not much strength there...

        Junior , no I didn't get a batwing, but I hope at some point to put in some bracing and that will solve the above problem too.

        I don't know what the drive shaft is I just got one from a pile of them, and it fit. i had it balanced.

        It doesn't hit the tunnel ever , but the tunnel has been cut and raised, at that low point, I'm sure it would hit other wise, thats not too difficult a mod to do.

        The last 2 days I cut out the footwells in the back and have made flat panels to fit, to give me more room for exhaust , I actually have the tunnel open right now as a result, i could take a pic if you need it.


        • #5
          no picture req`d thanks, as I am basically reverse engineering what has been done to the car years ago. the tunnel remains the way it is because the interior if finished, and I`m not about to rip up the carpet as it is glued in place and is still in perfect condition. Looks like I`ll have to do some more homework on the driveshaft issue. i think i remember someone using a cv joint on the front shaft of a two shaft set up because it was so short, iirc, it was pat dilling. a quick measurement shows that my front shaft is going to be very close to 300mm long from the front of the yoke to the center bearing. sounds like you`ve done lotsa work over the winter. regards, junior.
          1954 C5 Hamilton car.


          • #6
            All the work you have done to this Stude .... I am suprised you have not yet pulled the body???
            What has stoped you.
            It is the first thing I do!
            Makes work so much easier!!!
            Brian Woods
            1946 M Series (Shop Truck)


            • #7
              You are correct, I do have a CV joint at the front of the short shaft. My drive shaft guy chose to do that because my longer transmission makes my front shaft pretty short. The CV joint does "shudder" slightly on take off, but I was told that is to be expected and it has not caused any problems. I don't even notice it now. I have gone back and forth between a single and two piece shaft. Finally settled on the two piece to get the proper driveline angles with the car sitting low.

              Pat Dilling
              Olivehurst, CA
              Custom '53 Starlight aka STU COOL

              LS1 Engine Swap Journal: