Camshaft installation

[Dan Timberlake]

More than 3-5 thousandths runout would create some drag. More = more.

Straightening cast iron or hardened steel is safer when done by putting compressive stress into the "low side."
Shot peening, or whacking one side with a rounded chisel is a factory method of straightening cast cam blanks.
Also straightening Nitrided crankshafts.

[JoeHall]

The baby sledge and brass drift worked. The motor now has over 40,000 miles since. If that cam had cracked or broke, I'd have simply walked ten paces to my spare stash and puled out another one. Being a hoarder does have its advantages

I just could not believe al the suggested fixes in this thread without anyone suggesting to check the cam for straightness.

[Dan Timberlake]

It is a good suggestion. I was a little surprised when I did not find a straightness spec in the general specifications in the shop manual CD.

[Dan Timberlake]

................would it be possible to use a wheel cylinder hone to slightly enlarge the rear bearing?
Opinions?

T-cab

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I would not hone Rod, main. and cam bearings, as they are made of stuff that has some "embedability" to let hard particles sink in, so as to damage the crank/cam shaft less. They would love to to grab the grit from honing. Even honing aluminum piston pin bores was a little scary for me 'cause I felt the grit would tend to embed some. My solution was aggressive cleaning mechanically (nylon brush, etc) and with solvent.

Plus, a brake hone or a "ball hone" does not really correct bore geometry very effectively. It mostly cleans of rust (while leaving behind its own brand of trash) and puts a finish on parts.

if that last cam bearing has a problem at one edge, I think a bearing scraper (or even a sharp pocket knife) is going to do a lot less damage, even in the hands of an inexperienced user.