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'63 Cruiser -289 crankshaft

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  • Engine: '63 Cruiser -289 crankshaft

    Well, if I weren't a CASO and did not have 2 kids in college on a teacher's salary, I would pull the engine, remove the crank and either have it repaired or buy a new crank. My front main seal was leaking severely so I thought I would replace it. Had a difficult time getting the hub off the crank, not surprising except that there was NO key in the keyway and the keyway itself is wallowed out a LOT, and the keyway in the hub is also damaged. At some time in the last 48 years some unscrupulous mechanic/used car dealer used what appears to be Indian Head Gasket sealer to hold the hub in place. No wonder I could not get the timing just right. I have another hub and some of the keyway can be used. I am thinking about filling in the damaged part by welding and the using my dremel tool to smoothe it back off. I did this on an old Ferguson 20 many years ago. Forum reaction?

  • #2
    My opinion isn't mechanically based because I don't know enough to make it legit. It's more what if. What if it doesn't work, then all of the effort to pull the crank and work on it and reinstall it is wasted. You might as well put in a known good one. JMHO.
    '63 Cruiser
    '57 Packard wagon
    '61 Lark Regal 4 dr wagon
    '50 Commander 4 dr sedan


    • #3
      Sounds like a tricky project, Jim. Perhaps it would be easier to drill & tap the hub for a couple of set screws which could go into shallow holes on the crank. I have good used 289 cranks here, priced reasonably.
      Barry'd in Studes


      • #4
        Might a two-part epoxy work for this?
        In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.


        • #5
          Have you consulted a machine shop to price repairing the crank? The 289 crank is not that readily available.
          "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

          Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
          Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
          '33 Rockne 10,
          '51 Commander Starlight,
          '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
          '56 Sky Hawk


          • #6
            Welding on a crank in the car could damage the bearings.
            Proud NON-CASO

            I do not prize the word "cheap." It is not a badge of is a symbol of despair. ~ William McKinley

            If it is decreed that I should go down, then let me go down linked with the truth - let me die in the advocacy of what is just and right.- Lincoln


            Ephesians 6:10-17
            Romans 15:13
            Deuteronomy 31:6
            Proverbs 28:1

            Illegitimi non carborundum


            • #7
              Some may disagree with me.....

              I do not do these types of repairs if the engine is torn down....

              Here is what I would do in your case. First do not weld on the crank. I would try a jb weld type product. Two part epoxy. This stuff really does work pretty good. Get a new key and a new/good used hub. If it works great. If not the epoxy can be fairly easily removed and the crank can be removed and repaired or replaced. All you would be out is time if it does not work. If your time is more valuable than mine, take it out and fix it right.....
              1962 Champ

              51 Commander 4 door


              • #8
                A proper fix would be to turn the crank 180 deg and have a new keyway machined into it. Any good machine shop can do this. Then, instead of timing the Engine on No. 1, use no. 4. This would presuppose a good hub, or one rebuilt with JB Weld. With the timing mark turned 180 deg No. 4 would be at TDC when the timing mark is at the pointer.


                • #9
                  Thanks for the input guys...Barry that is an interesting idea about the set screws...I may do that and fill in with epoxy and and the 1/2 moon key...I know eventually I will have to pull and replace /repair the crank right (get Paul Hirshler at Vilas motor Works for the repair)....,we used to use a "steel" epoxy to fix things at Rental Service Company that was much better than JB Weld...if I can just remember the name of it...I remember the small container being fairly heavy, like a pound for a shoe polish sized container