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Securing the ignition switch

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  • Securing the ignition switch

    Has anyone got any tips on how to secure the ignition switch on a 1963 GT Hawk so the darned thing stays put? Every few weeks the cylinder pops away from the bezel and I wind up fumbling around behind the dash, thinking I've got it secure, but before long when I go to switch on it springs away again. I must be missing something simple with this??? Thanks.

  • #2
    get a new bezel, repros are available and made from aluminum, not pot metal.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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    • #3
      Thanks Nate - I should have mentioned that this is a new bezel and switch that I'm using.

      Comment


      • #4
        don't have an answer for you. You're probably going to have to pull the switch and take a good look at it to see what's wrong. Is everything installed correctly? it should be bezel, dash, white plastic thing, spring, switch. I am assuming that you are using one of the new repro switches and bezels that exactly duplicate the originals.

        good luck,

        nate

        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel

        Comment


        • #5
          The little ears on the ign. sw. can get worn after years of being subject to the vibrations of the car. If they're the least bit rounded, that bezel's gonna have a hard time holding on with the constant tension that spring exerts. I see tho that the switch is new as well.
          Further, if the inner diameter of that bezel's rather generous (as Nate's suggested), that's just more of an invitation for the switch to back out.
          MAYBE that retention spring isn't strong ENOUGH to keep a good grasp between the switch and the bezel! As Nate asked, is that translucent plastic ring in place? That being gone would lessen the tension of the retainer spring.[V]

          Miscreant at large.

          1957 Transtar 1/2ton
          1960 Larkvertible V8
          1958 Provincial wagon
          1953 Commander coupe
          1957 President 2-dr
          1955 President State
          1951 Champion Biz cpe
          1963 Daytona project FS
          No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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          • #6
            And a loose ignition switch is an invitation to a short circuit, sparks, smoke and the things that follow.[:0]

            Brad Johnson
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            33 Rockne 10
            51 Commander Starlight
            53 Commander Starlight

            previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser
            "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

            Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

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            • #7
              The shorting problem is why i wrap my ignition switch (the back where the contacts are) with electrical tape before I reassemble and mount it. That way if it wiggles around, it doesn't make that unplesant contact.

              And thanks for reminding me about the plastic grommet. I forgot it on my '63. Have to pop it out again and make sure I put it in.



              Lotsa Larks!
              K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
              Ron Smith
              Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
              K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
              Ron Smith
              Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

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              • #8
                Thanks guys - I think my problem may be the lack of the plastic ring or grommet. Lack of sufficient tension is probably letting the key turn the cylinder. Perhaps I can improvise??? (and add the electrical tape while I'm at it!).

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