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Carburetor rebuild

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  • Carburetor rebuild

    Found that the carb on the Cruiserr was leaking so I took it off and gave it to guy in town that does rebuilds. Started looking around some boxes that came with the car and found another carb (Stromberg WW 6-132) that is the same. The box it was in states that it also leaks. Always one to try something new I think I want try to rebuild this one myself. I have already located the kit so my question is "How difficult is it to rebuild this and is there anything I should pay particular close attention to?" Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    Start on the kitchen table with two or three small boxes, or maybe tuna fish cans for parts. As you remove a screw, put it in a box or can. Try to keep some sort of order so you know where they go back, perhaps labeling the boxes/cans. Don't force anything, just take it as it comes. You may have to pry some of the parts apart where a gasket has stuck, use a pocket knife and a lot of care, both for the metal and your fingers. When everything is apart, very carefully examine holes for ball bearings that might not yet have come out, shake, thump, and don't lose them. After all the loose parts are out and off, take it outside and spray carb cleaner everywhere and let it dry. If you have compressed air, now is a good time to blow out all the passages. Then read the instructions again and put it back together. It isn't as bad as it might seem.

    Kitchen tables are usually light colored, easily washable and well lighted, as opposed to say the garage floor.

    [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Bothcars.jpg[/img=left]
    Tom Bredehoft
    '53 Commander Coupe
    '60 Lark VI
    '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
    All three Indiana built OD cars

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    • #3
      Man, that WW is TOO EASY to refresh!

      IF it was leaking, take a light hammer and reseat all the little aluminum bore plugs you see around the outside of the bowl.

      But the carb itself - I can kit one blindfolded.[8D]

      Miscreant adrift in
      the BerStuda Triangle


      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe

      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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      • #4
        In addition to what Tom said, I like to soak mine for a day or so in the gallon size can of carb cleaner with the little built in basked. It does a better job of getting all the old crud out than just the spray cleaner. I do use the spray cleaner afterwards to insure the passages are blown out and super clean.

        Take digital pictures of assembled linkages and other semi complicated parts to insure you get them back together correctly.

        Also, I like to soak the accelerator pump in a light oil for a bit to insure it makes a good seal in the pump chamber.


        Dick Steinkamp
        Bellingham, WA

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        • #5
          Thanks, I knew I could count on good advise from this forum.

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          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp
            Also, I like to soak the accelerator pump in a light oil for a bit to insure it makes a good seal in the pump chamber.
            Be sure to flare out the leather "skirt" of the accelerator pump. I bought a new WW kit from Jon Myer and I found that the pump was actually smaller in diameter than the original so this may be the case with any new kit you buy. I happened to be going to Myer's so I took the pump to show him. He measured it with a micrometer and confirmed that it was .010 smaller than my Stromberg pump.
            BTW- I use neats foot oil- available at leather shops or some Studebaker vendors.


            [img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson
            '53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
            '64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
            '64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
            Museum R-4 engine
            Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
            '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine

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            • #7
              what are the reasonably priced sources for carb. kits.......Brad

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              • #8
                When I rebuild a carburetor or anything else with small parts I like to use an old muffin pan with about eight or ten compartments to keep small parts together. Each compartment holds pieces that came off together or are alike. Some people stick a magnet to the tin to hold small parts if it is bumped. I have used egg cartons for some things, but the muffin tin resists oil and solvents. You can number the compartments and keep a list if you are concerned about forgetting where things go.
                I really like the suggestion about the digital pictures. Sometimes a piece of linkage will fit, but not operate correctly unless it is turned around or upside down and the pictures in the shop manual or instructions are not clear enough to make out. Of course a little carefully tinkering can figure it out.
                Hope this helps.
                "In the heart of Arkansas."
                Searcy, Arkansas
                1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                1952 2R pickup

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