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  • Quick steering arm

    I recently received an advertisement from Studebaker International which offered "quick steering arms". Does anyone have any exerience with these?

  • #2
    Originally posted by Peter Nuckolls View Post
    I recently received an advertisement from Studebaker International which offered "quick steering arms". Does anyone have any exerience with these?
    I once took them off a Avanti with power steering because they were too quick. A flick of the wheel and you made a U turn. Without power steering, they build upper body strength.
    JDP Maryland

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    • #3
      I installed the quick steering arms on my '70 Avanti. I noticed the steering was a bit "darty" and the steering wheel turns lock-to-lock was somewhat reduced, but no great difference. If you're rebuilding your suspension anyway, give it some consideration, but outside of that just save your money.
      Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

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      • #4
        Did you have the steering realigned after? You can also adjust the power assist down with the
        screw in the back of the control valve.

        Tom
        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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        • #5
          You do need the steering aligned after installation. The alignment specs are the same, but it takes more adjustment to set to spec.
          Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

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          • #6
            After changing the steering arms, the only adjustment necessary is re-setting the toe-in.

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            • #7
              With the quick steering arms, it is important to set the caster to the maximum the adjustment will allow. Max caster improves the self-centering geometry and reduces darting and wandering at higher speeds.

              With the early kingpins, it is difficult to get even to zero on some cars. Personally, with quick steering arms, I always go to the late kingpin design.

              jack vines

              jack vines
              PackardV8

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              • #8
                What Jack says. Those steering arms are on the car pictured below (NO P/S) and you wouldn't believe the difference on the track!!! No comparison to the stock ones. Almost makes it feel like a go kart....turn the wheel 90 degrees and the car turns 90 degrees!!! Forget parallel parking. Jack, you're working your magic on a friend of mines (Mike F.) 352. Saw him yesterday...he's excited. I'm sure it'll be a screamer.

                Dan Miller
                Auburn, GA

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                • #9
                  I stand by my original statement "that the only adjustment that is absolutely necessary after changing steering arms is re-setting the toe-in". If after driving the car you find that it wanders or darts too much, then have the caster set to max. Why spend $$$ if not needed. Remember, we're CASOs.
                  Last edited by 31Streetrod; 01-24-2011, 09:43 AM.

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                  • #10
                    31 Street -

                    No....not EVERYONE is a CheapAssStudebakerOwner. Some of us have spent lots'a money and countless hours playing with these things...!

                    I may install a pair on my 54 wagon, and I "will" install a set to my 55 wagon when I get it back on the road. But as Jack notes, I need to find a good set of later spindles.

                    Mike

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                    • #11
                      Jack Vines: what is the maximum caster allowed? By this do you mean more than the shop manual suggests, or above zero? thanks

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                      • #12
                        On the first generation king pins, for instance, my '59 Shop Manual says -1 to -2.5 degrees. There is not usually enough rearward adjustment at the top to get these early kingpins even to come back to zero. If you can get any positive at all, so much the better, but usually won't happen.

                        On the second generation king pins, my Avanti Shop Manual says -3/4 to +3/4 with 0 preferred. Sometimes it will go all the way to +1, but not always.

                        Bottom Line - quick steering arms increase the tendency to wander and dart at high speeds. Positive caster or the least negative caster helps reduce this action.

                        jack vines
                        Last edited by PackardV8; 01-24-2011, 03:44 PM.
                        PackardV8

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                        • #13
                          With positive caster the weight of the car has a tendency to hold the wheels straight making car harder to steer. Negative tends to do the opposite which will result in quicker reaction to steering wheel movement. Any change to steering wheel ratio by R&P, steering box , steering arms, Pittman
                          arms,etc. can result in too quick of reaction and resulting darting effect especially with loose steering. Short steering arms without power steering
                          will give heavy steering in the parking lot which will get increasingly worse the more positive you go. Power Steering will make it easier to steer but
                          may increase the darting effect with out positive caster.

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                          • #14
                            When a 1/4 allen wrench is inserted into the caster/camber adjustment, does rotation in a clockwise manner, standing behind the right wheel, move the caster positive or negative? I put all new kingpins, bushings, etc in last yr, and I cannot remember the fine details, but I think the threads were right handed on each side of the pin, which, just considering it, should make clockwise rotation from behind, reduce the right wheel caster, if correct. I just got through using a Longacre digital alignment device to align the front end of this 53 project car. I left the caster at -2.0 when I was through, since it was in specs. The car has a 57 Ross steering box, and a 62 lark power steering setup, with short steering arms. The biggest issue with using the alignment tool was getting the 15 degrees right/left wheel-turning accurately done. So I just got tired of screwing around with it... I may need to pick up some turntables, because scribing the 15 degrees was a real nuisance. I wanted the alignment to be close to decent, because I have not yet really road-tested this car, which has a nominal 400 HP, if I did everything else on the build without too many stupid mistakes. Thanks, m weiss

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                            • #15
                              Robert -

                              It's not at all "what's allowed", it's more like...how much will the Stude system take..!
                              Most cars today drive around with much more (+) caster thAn is possible with the Stude suspension, because of the Stude shaft design.

                              You can force more, but then you bind up (metal to metal) the up and down motion of the spindle at the cross shafts.
                              Go lightly when adjusting, but get as much as you can get...

                              Mike

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