Turns over but won't run

[Guest]

This is my (pictured) 57 Champion I let sit out in rainy weather overnight and when I hoped to start it and drive her to work, got it cranking and wanting to fire quickly, but immediately dies. Hit the key again and same thing; a quick roar to life then dies.

Put the battery charger on - lacking any better idea - and took each plug out to dry it, drag a piece of folded 1500 grit in the gap and re-check with a feeler gauge...but same result.

Does this sound like anything you have encountered? Thanks!

[Carl Purdy]

Have you sprayed WD-40 in the distributor cap yet?

[Guest]

No, I haven't. Seriously, should I try that?

[Mike Sal]

Sure sounds like moisture on the ignition doesn't it. Spritz the distributor & inside of the cap, along with the plug wires with the wd40. Then, make sure you didn't flood it while doing all that cranking.
lots-o-luck
Mike Sa

[railway]

Tom, Hello, for grins put a jumper wire from battery to coil. Try starting, if stay running. You now know that it between ing. and coil. if dies (don't think it will) it's in the distributor.

I thinking resistor or resistor wire.

[StudeRich]

Tom what Ebon is trying to say is that a jumper wire from the (+) Batt. terminal to the (+) Coil Terminal will bi-pass the Resister and give it 12V just like turning the key to "Start" does. If it runs, it means that you have no continuity through the resister (give it a good burial) so it will not run in the Run ("ON") position on the Ign. Switch without the jumper wire.

You do not want to run it a long period of time jumpered, as it will burn the points.
Do I remember right, you have tried the Pertronix Ignition, and now have Points?

[Guest]

Hmm...thanks guys! The WD-40 made no difference, but I'm out of daylight today & will try the jumper wire tomorrow.

I do have a Pertronix ignition and if there's resistance, it's in the coil. Still try the jumper?

[StudeRich]

That is a controversial answer to that question Tom! I talked to one of the Owners of the Co. and he did say that their units seem to run better with the 12Volts, but could not go so far as to say the instructions saying to not change any resisters or resister wires when using a stock non resistance Coil are WRONG!
The only time they unquestionably recommend running a "Hot" wire direct from the Ign. switch to the Coil is when using Their 40,000 or 45,000 Volt coils or any other replacement coils with a built-in resistance.
So there would be no harm in running a 12 volt wire to the (+) side of the Coil.

In this case it is not looking good for your Pertronix being any good if that fails, unless the Rotor or Cap have failed.

[Warren Webb]

I have experienced what you are saying, but in my case it was the ignition switch that went bad. As a temporary fix (not really a fix-just a way to get it to work) after starting the engine instead of just releasing the key move it back a little past the starter position & see if it keeps running.

[52-fan]

Starting and then dying when you release the key does sound like a dead resistor. In the start position the ignition gets 12 volts, but in run the bad resistor stops the electricity. Of course, a bad ignition switch could do the same thing.

[N8N]

might as well. could still be a bad "run" contact in ignition switch, or wiring between same and coil. if "start" contact/wiring is still good you will still get symptoms you describe. should be familiar to MoPar owners

nate

[(S)]

sounds familiar.

I'm sure you'll check to see the choke is free and working, no critters in the air cleaner or exhaust pipe and there is gas in the tank.

[Dwain G.]

Tom, unless your car's ignition wiring has been modified, a '57 Champion does not use a ballast resistor. That probably makes the ignition switch the most likely suspect. Try the key 'wiggle' like Warren mentioned. Or check voltage at the 'C' (coil) terminal of the switch, the one with the black/green wire.

[52-fan]

Tom, unless your car's ignition wiring has been modified, a '57 Champion does not use a ballast resistor. That probably makes the ignition switch the most likely suspect. Try the key 'wiggle' like Warren mentioned. Or check voltage at the 'C' (coil) terminal of the switch, the one with the black/green wire.

If there is no resistor, there is a resistor wire in a 12 volt system that could be faulty. The jumper wire test should show if that's the problem.

[Guest]

I did the jumper wire and she fired up immediately!

The ign. switch currently in the car came from a junk yard '57 several years ago. Maybe it's time to get a new one.

Thanks so much ever'body!!