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Oil Leak question

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  • Engine: Oil Leak question

    I have a 64 Cruiser with the original 289 in it. The car/engine has about 100,000 miles on it and otherwise is a great running engine. I use one quarter of oil every 250 miles and this has been qoing on for several years. The transmission does not leak. I got tired of the oil leaks and stains in my driveway, so decided last week to get the oil leaks fixed, rear main, front timing gear, valve cover gaskets and fixed the fuel pump.

    Now my question....The engine is not leaking anymore, but I still have oil leaks on the driveway after bringing the "fixed" car home. Could the old oil still be dripping from the car? How long could that last? Also, could I pressure wash the old oil off? I think that would be pretty messy. Any other thoughts? This is my first Studebaker V-8, so have no experience with Studebaker oil leaks.

    Mark
    Last edited by Bullet; 05-27-2011, 10:50 AM.

  • #2
    The first thing I would do is wash the engine, get rid of all the old oil/crud. When the engine is clean, you can see where a leak is coming from. You would also want to make sure that all the bolts are torqued properly on the gaskets. If just the engine was leaking and now is not, make sure the leak isn't coming from the tranny. Bob Palma has more on this in the latest issue of Turning Wheels.
    Chris Dresbach

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    • #3
      Well either it is the old Engine oil coming off, or your Power Steering, Ram, Control Valve or Pump is leaking.
      Try drying out the flanges on the leading and trailing edges of that front crossmember under the front of the Engine, and see if the dripping stops, if it is FULL of Engine or P/S Oil you will know anyway.
      Last edited by StudeRich; 01-17-2011, 09:48 PM.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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      • #4
        The leaks on the ground are brown in color. Not red, so am sure it is engine oil.

        Chris, I had not read that article yet, so will tomorrow. StudeRich, thanks for the cross member idea I will check it.

        Mark

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        • #5
          hard to believe, but you did replace the "oil pan" gaskets ? I didn't see that mentioned in your list. Aside from that note, my best is 13K miles on a re-seal. 1959 170 flattie. Was done on the engine stand. I've done several V8's, both on stands and under the car......they all leaked in less than 10K miles......best of luck and think of the $$$ oil w/ ZDDP and relative costs..and of course your driving habits....oh, yea...and none of my cars with any tranny/engine combo has gotten better than 24 mpg (55' Commander w/224 OD)...

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          • #6
            I read the article in TW this month. It talks more about sealing and looking for leaks. I am ok with the leaks being stopped on the engine, and the P/S does not leak. I just have residual drippings now from the old oil. Does it make sense that the frame, cross member etc would still drip and sealing the engine? I guess that is my real question.

            Oh yes we did replace the oil pan seal as well.

            Thanks for the suggestions and ideas.

            Mark

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            • #7
              very possible

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Bullet View Post
                I have a 64 Cruiser with the original 289 in it. The car/engine has about 100,000 miles on it and otherwise is a great running engine. I use one quarter of oil every 250 miles and this has been qoing on for several years. The transmission does not leak. I got tired of the oil leaks and stains in my driveway, so decided last week to get the oil leaks fixed, rear main, front timing gear, valve cover gaskets and fixed the fuel pump.

                Now my question....The engine is not leaking anymore, but I still have oil leaks on the driveway after bringing the "fixed" car home. Could the old oil still be dripping from the car? How long could that last? Also, could I pressure wash the old oil off? I think that would be pretty messy. Any other thoughts? This is my first Studebaker V-8, so have no experience with Studebaker oil leaks.

                Mark
                How is your exhaust pipes? Black? You may be washing your cylinder walls with fuel causing you to burn a small unnoticable amount of oil. I had that problem with my Hawk being too rich. Re jetting the carburator eliminated my oil consumption.

                Allen
                1964 GT Hawk
                PSMCDR 2014
                Best time: 14.473 sec. 96.57 MPH quarter mile
                PSMCDR 2013
                Best time: 14.654 sec. 94.53 MPH quarter

                Victoria, Canada

                Comment


                • #9
                  I think the studebaker engine designer used to work for Triumph/Norton Motorcycles in England. The old story about them was if there wasn't a puddle of oil under them then they were out of oil. Seems to be the same with Studebaker.

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                  • #10
                    the channels in the big x-member hold a lot of drippage, after you clean you might want to drill a 1/8" hole in the lip front and rear right in the middle of the x-member to help keep it clean and keep water from collecting in there.

                    nate
                    --
                    55 Commander Starlight
                    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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                    • #11
                      You might also want to take a look at the flexible hose from the rear of the passenger's cylinder head to the oil pressure guage. That thing is full pressure to the guage, and when leaking can really pump it out. You should always carry a spare, or at least a pipe plug as insurance, and if you've never changed yours it may be time!

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by E. Davis View Post
                        I think the studebaker engine designer used to work for Triumph/Norton Motorcycles in England. The old story about them was if there wasn't a puddle of oil under them then they were out of oil. Seems to be the same with Studebaker.
                        Reminds me of the old saying on why they dont make computers in England...............'cause they still cant get them to leak oil!!
                        59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                        60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                        61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                        62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                        62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                        62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                        63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                        63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                        64 Zip Van
                        66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                        66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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                        • #13
                          Did you replace the gasket around the base of the distributor? That will leak and the oil will run down the back of the engine and drip just as you describe. It fools you into thinking it's the rear seal. Those gaskets are very low priced at your favorite Studebaker parts dealer and only take a few minutes to change out.

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                          • #14
                            Yes got that as well. Thanks for that idea. I think the oil is coming from years of oil leaking on the frame and cross member. That is the issue and will stop now that no fresh new oil is adding to the issue.

                            Mark
                            Last edited by Bullet; 05-27-2011, 10:47 AM. Reason: spelling correction

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                            • #15
                              So true E. Davis. When my 63 Hawk arrived four years ago it was hemorrhaging all kind of fluids. I've replaced everything, seals, gaskets in steering, brakes, trany etal, not the head gaskets(ok), it still mysteriously leaves a stain in the driveway.

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