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Brake job problems

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  • Brake job problems

    Well, I just completed my first (and hopefully last) brake job. I replaced everything in the system. I have not put the wheels back on yet to drive it. I am waiting to see if any fluid leaks. I do have a few questions:

    How freely should the rear wheels turn? I did not notice how it was before tearing it down. Besides, everything was so rusty and with the bad wheel cylinders it would probably not have told me much.
    If I spin the hub hard, I get about about one turn. The brake shoes are not dragging. Of course, when you turn the hub, it turns the other side and the drive shaft. Is the way mine turns normal or do I have a problem?

    The other question is: can the adjustment on the push rod be used to raise the brake pedal or is it for some other purpose?


  • #2
    The rears will feel a bit tight because you are turning the Diff. as well. If you are concerned you can always finish the job, leave the rear axle on sturdy jackstands, start it and idle in drive and watch and listen at both rear wheels.

    Another easier test is; Drive it around a few blocks trying a few medium stops, come home or at any convenient driveway apron, stop at the top release brake and see how easily it will roll back.

    It is best to not fool with the pushrod except as a last resort, usually a good Brake Adjustment after short break-in, at 8 to 10 clicks from locked on each wheel, will cure the low Pedal. If not re-bleed the System.

    Warning, if you have Power Brakes, the Pedal shaft is short and you will have a shorter travel than Std. brakes!
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner


    • #3
      Thanks for the response. I disassembled the push-rod linkage to clean it up and lubricate it when I removed the master cylinder. I then screwed it all the way in when I reassembled it and put the new master cylinder in. I did not notice how for out the push-rod was when I took it apart. I adjusted it out about one half an inch and everything seems OK. I have bled the brakes twice now (tough to do by yourself). I am afraid I have a leak where the fitting attaches to the master cylinder. I could not find new brass washers so I used the old ones. I can't seem to get tight enough.
      I guess I will just keep bleeding and tightening until something breaks or it stops leaking. Thanks again.


      • #4
        If you have a shop manual it should tell how much free play the push rod should have, usually 3/8ths" Less than that and you risk brakes locking up when they warm up. Last summer I needed the copper washers and my local auto parts store ( O'Reillys) had a bag of them with different sizes.
        Frank van Doorn
        Omaha, Ne.
        1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
        1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
        1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD


        • #5
          ...and another CASO skill: clean down both sides of the soft washer with a flat file...not too much-just enough to smooth things out. I suggest this only because you may not find the exact diameter washer locally. I even grab these things NOS @ York for future maintainence. Even now, from a major Stude supplier, the washers are not exact....close, but not NOS. Oil pressure relief valve washers come to mind....On the "free pedal travel"...I always seem to need adjustments to be a bit less (tighter) than the book to make up for worn linkage.....more so with clutch adjustment.
          Last edited by jackb; 01-18-2011, 08:21 AM.


          • #6
            there is a Wagner no. for the copper washers on my web site. haven't had to buy any so as of right now it is unconfirmed but the no. is straight out of their catalog.

            55 Commander Starlight