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A-Arm bushing installation tool - no removal needed

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  • A-Arm bushing installation tool - no removal needed

    Attached Files
    Last edited by Charlie D; 01-07-2011, 01:06 PM. Reason: To change the title to be better searchable

  • #2
    Wow! That's some nice inventive problem-solving there! Good job!

    Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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    • #3
      As the old sayin' goes Charlie, "Necessity is the mother of invention". In military jargan...."Adapt and overcome". Good luck on future projects.

      Dan Miller
      Auburn, GA

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      • #4
        Charlie

        A great solution to a problem.

        Could I ask you a favor? One of the problems were are having on the forum is finding all of these great tech solutions when someone tries to use the search functions down the road. I don't know if you can change the title once there has been a post but if you can't, could you repost the pictures in the tech section again with a title like "A-Arm bushing installation tool no removal required" or something along those lines.

        We keep losing these great posts in the inter-galactic bit bucket of the forum.

        I looked long and hard for the length of the install spacers for the bushings and drew a blank so I posted it with a searchable title.

        Your's is creative enough it deserves to be searchable because it is a great solution.

        Thanks for letting me gripe about titles for technical articles being correct again.

        Bob

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        • #5
          I was able to do an advanced edit and the re-title evidently worked. I appreciate all your comments. I personally love when someone has done something on their car and posts pictures/attachments to visually show how it was done. I have done one more minor edit. Since it appeared that I could only have 5 attachments with the original post, this one had to be left out but I felt it was needed to add here. It is what the pipe looked like before inserting between the a-arm and cross member. The slot was hack-sawed into the outside of the pipe to allow it to open wide enough to clear the ear. After the bushing had been pressed in, I had to use a chisel at the opening in the pipe to get it to open up a little than the channel locks pulled it out.

          Charlie D.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by Charlie D; 01-07-2011, 06:52 PM.

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          • #6
            I usually keep them all on my site. This is a great method and well worth the effort. It will be archived tomorrow..
            64 GT Hawk (K7)
            1970 Avanti (R3)

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            • #7
              Your site is indeed a gem for info!
              Jeff

              Originally posted by 64V-K7 View Post
              I usually keep them all on my site. This is a great method and well worth the effort. It will be archived tomorrow..
              HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

              Jeff


              Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



              Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Charlie D View Post
                I was able to do an advanced edit and the re-title evidently worked. I appreciate all your comments. I personally love when someone has done something on their car and posts pictures/attachments to visually show how it was done.

                Charlie D.
                Thanks Charlie, Much appreciated.

                Bob

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                • #9
                  If I might clarify something for myself, and if I am correct offer a suggestion. You thread the bolt into
                  the cross shaft and continue tightening the BOLT using the threads in the cross shaft to draw in the new
                  bushing? Or did you use a NUT on the bolt threads to tighten and draw in the bushing?

                  Reason I ask is critical. If you use the threaded hole in the cross shaft to draw the bushing in, its very
                  possible to strip them out using that procedure. Its better to use a longer bolt, or threaded rod and do
                  the threading on the rod instead. This way you bottom the threaded rod or bolt into the cross shaft and
                  then are only pulling on the threads, not stressing them. Its the same way they put harmonic balancers
                  on Chevys, threaded rod into the crank and a nut to draw the balancer.

                  I apologize if I simply misunderstood your directions.

                  Tom
                  '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                  Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                  http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                  I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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                  • #10

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                    • #11
                      Good procedure and I agree with sbca96 that a threaded rod or long bolt is a better way to go. As a cautionary note, one should never use a tap to clean up threads, as the tap will remove metal and loosen the fit. There are thread chasers designed for that purpose that should be used and a part of all hobby mechanics tool boxes. Fortunately your threads didn't strip out. If you did use a chaser but simply referred to it as a die, then it is important to highlight the difference.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by WCP View Post
                        Good procedure and I agree with sbca96 that a threaded rod or long bolt is a better way to go. As a cautionary note, one should never use a tap to clean up threads, as the tap will remove metal and loosen the fit. There are thread chasers designed for that purpose that should be used and a part of all hobby mechanics tool boxes. Fortunately your threads didn't strip out. If you did use a chaser but simply referred to it as a die, then it is important to highlight the difference.
                        WCP, I've heard for years about using a "chase" instead of a tap. I've never seen them for sale and it never occured to me to ask the tool truck guy about them. Where would one find them?

                        Art

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                        • #13
                          Sears sells a Craftsman kit that includes NF, NC, and metric. As I recall, it retails for around $45us. I also use a Snap-on set that I picked up at a Stude swap meet.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by sbca96 View Post
                            Its better to use a longer bolt, or threaded rod and do
                            the threading on the rod instead. This way you bottom the threaded rod or bolt into the cross shaft and
                            then are only pulling on the threads, not stressing them.
                            Tom, I am by no means an expert, but I do have quite a bit of experience with engines; but I have never thought of this! Makes complete sense! That's why guys like you accomplish, and guys like me hack

                            Thanks to both Tom and Charlie for passing on valuable knowledge. Much appreciated!
                            Proud NON-CASO

                            I do not prize the word "cheap." It is not a badge of honor...it is a symbol of despair. ~ William McKinley

                            If it is decreed that I should go down, then let me go down linked with the truth - let me die in the advocacy of what is just and right.- Lincoln

                            GOD BLESS AMERICA

                            Ephesians 6:10-17
                            Romans 15:13
                            Deuteronomy 31:6
                            Proverbs 28:1

                            Illegitimi non carborundum

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                            • #15
                              Wow!!

                              Bob, I just saw the article on your web site. I’m glad I have a sweater on today because I know there would have been some buttons popped off a shirt. If anyone comes to the forum for a follow-up they will see the excellent recommendations by Tom & WCP that improve on the jury rigged apparatus/procedure. I have visited your site often for advice and ideas while working on my ‘55 President State Sedan project. Thank you for thinking the solution to my problem was worthy of inclusion.

                              Charlie D.

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