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1962 GT Hawk A/C question

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  • 1962 GT Hawk A/C question

    I have a 1962 GT Hawk with a complete NOS Air Conditioning system on it. I am having trouble figuring out just how much refrigerant oil to add, (system completely empty), and what type of oil to add to it? I know the system has a York compressor and takes 3 lbs. of R-12.
    Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all in advance.

  • #2
    Well, it takes 3 pounds, but I'd use a gage set. It uses ester oil.


    Studebaker On The Net
    http://stude.com
    Studebaker News Group
    http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
    Arnold Md.
    65 Sports Sedan
    64 Daytona HT
    63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
    63 GT Hawk
    63 Avanti R1/AC
    63 Avanti R2/4 speed
    63 Daytona HT
    63 Lark 2 dr.
    62 Lark 2 door
    62 GT(parts car)
    60 Lark convert
    60 Hawk
    52 Starliner
    51 Commander
    JDP Maryland

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    • #3
      What is the model no. on the tag? Try this:
      http://www.jim-russell.com/york_compressor.htm


      Dwain G.

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      • #4
        Thanks guys, I will try the web site and get more info from the tag ----- if possible.

        Comment


        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by JDP

          Well, it takes 3 pounds, but I'd use a gage set. It uses ester oil.


          Studebaker On The Net
          http://stude.com
          Studebaker News Group
          http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
          Arnold Md.
          65 Sports Sedan
          64 Daytona HT
          63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
          63 GT Hawk
          63 Avanti R1/AC
          63 Avanti R2/4 speed
          63 Daytona HT
          63 Lark 2 dr.
          62 Lark 2 door
          62 GT(parts car)
          60 Lark convert
          60 Hawk
          52 Starliner
          51 Commander

          Comment


          • #6
            I've completely overhauled York and Tecumseh compressors before, actually they're a very simple design. I don't remember off hand how much oil they take, but I believe I was able to insert a piece of wire, stick or such into the crankcase like a dipstick and measure the level. CAn't remember which brand it was though. If they leak down slowly you normally don't loose any compressor oil, only when a hose blows and it evacuates the system rapidly. I'll check my books tonight because you don't want to overfill them.

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            • #7
              Hey 26 Coupe, sorry for not getting back with you last night. Concerning the compressor oil, remove the bolt with a 9/16" head that's located in the center of the side of the compressor (sticking up when the compressor's mounted horizontally on the car). Take a piece of wooden dowel or other long cylindrical object that you can use as a dip stick and insert into the hole until it rests on the bottom. In the horizontal position, you want a minimum 3/4" oil depth and a normal level of 7/8". According to my trusty 40 year old AC manual, this will require 1/4th pint to reach this level if the system is charged and has been operated. If the compressor crankcase was empty to begin with and you are charging a completely dry unit (no oil being left in the condenser, evaporator or reciever dryer) you need 1-5/8" oil depth in the crankcase and it will take 5/8th of a pint to get this level. Many of the early to mid-60's York units came pre-charged with oil and Freon. If you have a totally NOS unit, don't automatically assume there's no oil in it just because there's no freon in it, so be sure and check the crankcase level before you start pouring oil into it. Be sure and get oil that is R-12 compatible if you are able to find someone who still has R12. If retrofitting to the 134-A, be sure to get oil that's compatible for it because they are different oils. I'd suggest the R-12 if at all possible, it'll probably be rather expensive (four or more times the price of 134-A) but when using 134-A you're only going to have about 80% the cooling capacity of R-12. I haven't measured pully diameters on the compressor and engine crankshaft to determine compressor rpm, but the reduced cooling could be significant on overdrive equiped cars where the engine just loafs at cruising speed. I believe the V-8's used a 9 cubic inch compressor and 6cy a 6 cubic inch compressor. A 9 ci turning 2186 rpm's will produce 17,500 Btu's and a 6 ci 11,000 Btu's at the same rpm. As a bit of trivia, the 9 ci will require 2.9hp and the 6 ci 1.7 hp at that speed (it's obvious why the 6 cy used a smaller compressor). At the same rpm the 134-A will only provide 14,000 and 8,800 Btu's which could leave you to sweating, especially at low engine rpm's. Putting a 10 ci compressor is unlikely to overcome the reduced capacity because on older R12 applications it's usually the evaporator size (the part inside the car) that limits 134-A cooling. Sorry for writing a novel, but maybe others can find some assistance in this.

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              • #8
                New question:

                Has anyone published material on servicing the 1962 GT Hawk air conditioning evaporator housings? I’d like to replace the four round chromed bezels and the on/off bulb but I’m not sure how to proceed without ruining any panels. The Shop Manual and Body Parts Catalogs are of no help.

                Thanks.
                Bill L.
                1962 GT Hawk

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                • #9
                  There are clips and screws that hold it all together, a fun job. Luck Doofus

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                  • #10
                    Any particular order in disassembling? If I had to guess, it looks like you have to take the parking brake out of the way, the evaporator case mounting screws to the dash, remove the drain tube, swing the unit out and then remove the bottom tray first. Sound right?
                    Bill L.
                    1962 GT Hawk

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                    • #11
                      Pretty sure if you just remove the easily accessed mount bolts, you can just drop the unit down and remove the face. Not sure you even need to remove the face in order to replace the bezels, but will to replace the light. The bezels I got from SI, maybe 20 years ago were about 1/16 inch too small, and needed spacing. I heard later they were for 1960s Mustang. I dunno what he has nowadays, if that's where you got yours.

                      It definitely ain't rocket science to remove the unit face, once dropped down. Just takes a screwdriver, pliers, and couple of 7/17" wrenches.
                      Last edited by JoeHall; 04-22-2016, 06:33 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Where do I get a couple of 7/17" wrenches, Joe? Thanks for the info. I tried to remove just the oval front panels around the bezels but they weren't forthcoming and I was afraid to break anything. I'll drop the unit down.
                        Bill L.
                        1962 GT Hawk

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Fair warning! I just found out that the bezels simply pop in and out! Just lift up or down on their pivots and they come right out. There's a small rubber 0-ring that holds them in place on the pivots. No need to take the housing apart. Took them out, cleaned them well, and painted them glossy silver. Just like new! The indicator lamp is another story!
                          Last edited by 56GH; 04-23-2016, 11:54 AM.
                          Bill L.
                          1962 GT Hawk

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