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Avanti will not start when it is below 40 degrees

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  • Avanti will not start when it is below 40 degrees

    Hello again.

    For some odd reason my car will never start when it is below 40 degrees. Any idea's?
    jerry defilippi

  • #2
    hmm, it's a HOT car? It's sporty and doesn't like the cold? Ok, I'm done. Good luck when the smart guys get here.

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    • #3
      You are in a very humid area. A drop in temperature causes moisture to condense. The Avanti is a real challenge, because of the ignition shielding. Next time it won't start, first, remove and clean all the battery cables. Moisture-caused corrosion increases resistance and decreases voltage. Does it now start? If not, remove all the ignition shielding, remove the distributor cap and dry it inside, place a piece of paper between the closed points and pull it back and forth gently, remove the coil wire, using a Q-tip, dry inside the coil tower and the distributor cap. Dry the area around the =/- wires on the coil. This will fix most of the cold, damp start problems. If it still doesn't start, inside a dark garage with the door closed, have someone turn it over with the starter while you watch the coil and plug wires for spark jumping. You shouldn't see anything. If you do, it is time for a new coil, new plug wires and new plugs.

      Bottom line, if everything in the ignition system is new, clean, tight, dry and set to specs, the Avanti is one of the easiest-to-start cars ever made.

      jack vines
      PackardV8

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      • #4
        Perhaps the choke isn't completely closing?
        sigpic
        In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

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        • #5
          I have changed the coil. I converted to electrionic ignition. The car sounds like it will start when I turn the ignition off.
          jerry defilippi

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          • #6
            Originally posted by jerry1 View Post
            I have changed the coil. I converted to electrionic ignition. The car sounds like it will start when I turn the ignition off.
            You must not be getting a full twelve volts to the coil when cranking. Solenoid may be bad, poor wire connection, wrong wire connection or any other reason you aren't getting a full 12 volts to the + side of the coil when cranking. When you release the key the circuit through the ballast resistor is making contact and giving you enough spark to fire the fuel that's in the cylinders giving you a little combustion.

            If both the crank and run wires are running through the ballast resistor you may have enough juice to start in the warmer weather but not enough to fire off a cold mixture.

            ErnieR

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            • #7
              Thank you I will give it a try
              jerry defilippi

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              • #8
                What style electronic ignition? If it's a Pertronix I believe it runs a full 12 volts all the time so you can eliminate the ballast resistor. I have a Mallory distributor and here's a picture of the wiring.Click image for larger version

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                No matter what there should be two wires to the plus side of the coil. One comes from the solenoid's "I" terminal and it's energized when the key is in the crank position along with the starter. When you release the key the other wire from the ballast resistor is energized but reduced to about 9 volts by the resistor. The connector on the solenoid loosens up with age and is sometimes just held on by a single strand.

                ErnieR
                Last edited by bige; 12-05-2010, 02:35 PM.

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                • #9
                  Re:

                  Is this Avanti being funded through your childrens College Fund... How about you buy a better car or possibly move to a warmer location

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                  • #10
                    Not with the garbage that masquerades as fuel today:-(

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