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fuse box location

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  • fuse box location

    I have a Painless wiring kit to put in my '65 Cruiser. I would like to know from folks who have used this set up where they have put the fuse box.
    Joe Roberts
    '61 R1 Champ
    '65 Cruiser
    Eastern North Carolina Chapter

  • #2
    Well I don't know what the wire lengths are in a Painless kit, I do know it's a whole lot more PAINFUL than the available NOS or repro Studebaker Harnesses that most of us use!

    Almost all cars that have a fuse block mount them on the far left side of the firewall above the dimmer switch, so the lengths may reach there.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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    • #3
      On my 41 Champion I put the Painless Wiring fuse panel on the inside firewall to the left of the steering column Joe. The wires are plenty long enough to mount it anywhere in that general area.
      Frank van Doorn
      Omaha, Ne.
      1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
      1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
      1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

      Comment


      • #4
        No question, unless I'm going for a correct, stock restoration, Painless, or Ron Francis, or one of the others are ther only way to go. If one is doing a complete, non-stock rewire, it makes no sense to fool with 50 year old designs that couldn't envision modern charging, stereos, lighting, etc. A burning wiring harness is a sucky way to treat your restoration

        Going to another level, here's one I'm looking at. A little pricey, but very interesting:

        http://www.isispower.com/index.html
        Proud NON-CASO

        I do not prize the word "cheap." It is not a badge of honor...it is a symbol of despair. ~ William McKinley

        If it is decreed that I should go down, then let me go down linked with the truth—let me die in the advocacy of what is just and right.- Lincoln

        GOD BLESS AMERICA

        Ephesians 6:10-17
        Romans 15:13
        Deuteronomy 31:6
        Proverbs 28:1

        Illegitimi non carborundum

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        • #5
          This on a '53 that has very little room under the dash, I don't know how much room you have. I made a hinged panel that drops down for access and is up out of the way in normal use. It really is a space saver and has worked well for several years.





          Make sure you leave enough slack in the wires for it to move up and down without pulling them too hard
          Last edited by Pat Dilling; 11-15-2010, 10:29 AM.
          Pat Dilling
          Olivehurst, CA
          Custom '53 Starlight aka STU COOL


          LS1 Engine Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ournalid=33611

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          • #6
            It looks like what Pat has done will work. Actually Jamie McLeod has suggested that we use a unit from a Ford Taurus that flips down much like that in Pat's car. Thanks for all of the suggestions.
            Joe Roberts
            '61 R1 Champ
            '65 Cruiser
            Eastern North Carolina Chapter

            Comment


            • #7
              Those multi-plexed systems are the future of automotive wiring. There's a huge weight savings.

              Originally posted by Bob Andrews View Post
              No question, unless I'm going for a correct, stock restoration, Painless, or Ron Francis, or one of the others are ther only way to go. If one is doing a complete, non-stock rewire, it makes no sense to fool with 50 year old designs that couldn't envision modern charging, stereos, lighting, etc. A burning wiring harness is a sucky way to treat your restoration

              Going to another level, here's one I'm looking at. A little pricey, but very interesting:

              http://www.isispower.com/index.html

              Comment

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