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V-8 Water pumps

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  • #16
    That ebay kit is a good pictoral on how a v8 pump was built. The kit will only work on an original style pump, as the seal is in the impeller (the new construction pumps have the seal in the housing). The thing that they don't mention is that you have to re-finish the pump housing where the seal rubs against it (afterall, that's why they leak to begin with, the cast iron housing rusts & wears the joint out). The hub & impeller can be used with a new heavy duty type pump, if you remove the seal (and don't need the longer nose on the hub).

    The bearing in this kit may or may not be good to use. If the grease in the bearing has dried up (grease is basically oil mixed with soap) the bearing won't live as long as a newer one. You cannot add grease to a water pump bearing as it has seals on both ends.
    Mike Sal


    • #17
      New Improved $65.00 plus shipping.


      • #18
        Well.......Bought a HD new water pump from Fairborn Studebaker (Phil Harris).....Phil says no changes needed to install. He has NEVER steered me wrong !

        While I have the blade and pulley off ......They appear to have been black .......Is that correct on a 1961 Hawk 289 ?
        1961 Hawk ...4-Speed;4bc;Twin Traction

        Ken Byrd


        • #19
          Your profile does not list where you live, but IMHO, an Avanti fan may be a little small for a Hawk. Do you have A/C? Also, does your GT have a complete shroud? You need to make sure that 1/2 of the chord of the fan is inside the shroud. This first pic shows my GT with the orig. 4 blade fan, and spacer.

          This pic shows an Avanti fan, and clutch, but no spacer. It does not go into the shroud at all.

          This is the fan that I have finally gone with, its kinda loud, but it moves the air. And believe me, it is hot in Texas. I can drive the car in 105 degree heat without it going over 200 degrees.


          • #20
            You are correct Mike, the bearings are the same for hd or std. I used to overhaul Stude pumps for the club back in the 70's and would use a ball roller type bearing in a standard casting for use on the Avantis or ac cars. I did this since there were no Avanti housings or hd housings available anywhere. I would intall the bearing with the roller toward the front of the car. The roller carried the load and the ball at the rear took the thrust load keeping the bearing in the housing. The reason the hd casting is taller is due to the Avanti pulley setup and also the ac pulley setup on other Studes. If you add up all the belt loads their center or resultant load needs to go right in between the front and back set of ball bearings. On the hd pump (tall casting) the bearing itself could be moved further toward the front of the car and still be inside the casting which redistrbuted the load to go between the front and rear sets of bearings. Using a standard V8 pump (short housing) on a Avanti or ac car ends up with the resultant load carried by the front bearing only. If the front bearing is a ball bearing it will burn up quickly as it will be carrying all the load. The roller in this instance would carry way more load without dying and essentially hold up even in the Avanti.

            I just had to comment on this thread as I remember going through three nos Avanti radiators plus the original before I figured this out. Luckily I could buy nos radiators back then for $50 ea believe it ot not.

            Originally posted by Mike Sal View Post
            Just to clear up a point about "heavy duty" pumps....the bearing itself is essentially the same between the two pumps. The body casting is what is beefed up. The bearing used in all '50 & newer studebakers uses a 5/8 shaft & 1 & 3/16 o.d. outer race. Unless someone specifically special ordered some ball-roller bearings for the v8 applications (there were none available when I was building pumps), the bearing will be of ball-ball construction. This means there are 2 rows of ball bearings inside the bearing (ball-roller styles have one row of balls and one row of rollers....which increases the load capability greatly).

            Anybody running AC should consider the thicker bodied pumps. The other advantage of running new construction pumps (compared to rebuilt originals) is the mechanical seal. The new pumps have much better seals (unitized construction) than the originals.

            I don't have my files handy at the moment, but I seem to think the '51 had a different hub.....I'll be able to check it out tomorrow.

            My company supplied pumps to SASCO from the mid-sixties till about 1970 if I remember correctly (again.....too many brain cells flushed away to remember for sure at the moment).
            Mike Sal