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Camber adjustment modification

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  • Camber adjustment modification

    My 53K has excessive negative camber at its lowered ride height. Has anyone come across an upper inner shaft mounting kit that transforms the stock two bolt fixed mounting to an adjustable shim style setup? I recall seeing a simple steel angle setup somewhere.

    Alternatively has anyone tried elongating the fixed position frame bolt holes to give some adjustability?


    53 Starliner modified
    Ken MacKenzie
    53 Starliner modified

  • #2
    The upper control arm crosshaft can be turned 180 degrees after removing the bolts, it is an offset crosshaft so this will give you a little less negative camber.
    Frank van Doorn
    Omaha, Ne.
    1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
    1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
    1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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    • #3
      quote:Originally posted by 41 Frank

      The upper control arm crosshaft can be turned 180 degrees after removing the bolts, it is an offset crosshaft so this will give you a little less negative camber.
      Thanks...the manual says the flip gives approximately 3/4 degree extra. I need more than that, as much as 3 to 5 degrees. The shaft would have to be moved outward about .250" to .312".

      53 Starliner modified
      Ken MacKenzie
      53 Starliner modified

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      • #4
        A combination of rotating the excentric (outside pin) and flipping the shaft (inner) might get you closer than you think. Especially if both adjustments are adjusted fully the wrong way now.

        Has the car been crashed on that side?

        Mike

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        • #5
          If adjustments don't work, you could just use a piece of heavy angle iron and then mount the inner shaft to the vertical part of the angle and use shims there as needed.

          Make sure you inspect the part of the frame where the inner shaft mounts for cracks, and add a reinforcement plate or hardened fender washers to reinforce (whether or not repairs are needed) this is a common area to find cracking on these cars, esp. the earlier ones.

          nate

          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          http://members.cox.net/njnagel
          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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          • #6
            Thanks to Bob Johnstone for reminding me where I saw the design concept to use an angle bracket. It is on his Avanti website
            http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechx3.html. Nate, likewise you are on the same page, so to speak. I intend to try this out asap.


            53 Starliner modified
            Ken MacKenzie
            53 Starliner modified

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            • #7
              Mac -

              If you do that (angle iron), you most definatly do both sides...even if only one side needs it.

              You will (most likely) be altering the angle at which the arm works..or its pivot point location.
              Actually making it worse performance wise. So to make sure both tires act the same while going around corners...do this change to both sides, so both sides will act the same.

              Mike

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              • #8
                It was mentioned on the Racing Studebaker forum that the upper inner
                pivot needs to DROP in relation to the lower pivot for better handling.
                This was done on the R3 cars by Studebaker in the 60s. By making an
                angled mount you will be moving the upper pivot UP, which is the wrong
                direction - thats what Mike is refering too. One of the things on my
                long hitlist is an replacement upper control arm - if its possible. It
                was also mentioned that perferably the upper arm should be longer then
                the factory arm, so basically the upper inner pivot needs to go in and
                down - but the frame is in the way.

                Oh .. and keep in mind that your angle iron will be able to flex, so
                it would be wise to add gussets at each end to minimize that effect.

                Tom

                '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
                '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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