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when it rains, it???oh yeh pours!!

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  • when it rains, it???oh yeh pours!!

    well this is a runoff of the not enough vacuum tread, i adjusted my valve lash down to 12 as ted suggested and it fired up fine, idled kinda rough and as soon as i put it in gear and tried to go it just died. it started beck up a few times and gave me the same business, i made a couple small timing adjustments and same thing kept happening. now it will start for about 1-2 seconds and then dies instantly. a very crisp shutdown. i checked for spark and there is plenty of it, plenty fuel, and i even backed the lash back off to 18 and no change, fires up and dies. what could be going on here, i'm going nuts guys, help me!

    notsoslow64
    1964 lark daytona
    bd_marks@yahoo.com

  • #2
    I was not part of that original thread .... but set lash to 12?? That
    will keep all the valves from closing and most likely burn them. Not
    sure about adjusting them so tight. Maybe I am missing something, but
    I would say your engine temp exceeded the valve sealing and now it can
    not create compression. Wait til it cools down (couple hours) and if
    it starts right back up then your valve are WAY too tight. Spec is a
    max of .023 hot/.025 cold, if memory serves.

    Tom

    '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

    Comment


    • #3
      in the old tread ted mentioned that since i have an R2+ cam which is a reground it can be set tighter. the thing that kills me is that it ran at its tightest warmed up pretty good, and now won't run at all after sitting for about 24 hours.

      notsoslow64
      1964 lark daytona
      bd_marks@yahoo.com

      Comment


      • #4
        Wow! Ok. Well, Ted would be the one that knows about the R2+, I had
        an R3 regrind in the Hawk and always set to .026 cold.

        The fact that it ran, and now doesnt is puzzling. You might try a
        compression test to get a baseline. They should be consisent, and
        none should be less then 100 psi. 120 psi is usually a tired engine,
        and a higher compression new engine should be over 165 psi. I used
        to get 180+ with the Hawk, that was with flat top pistons. (~9.25:1)

        Tom
        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

        Comment


        • #5
          Whenever an engine seems to start and run in the "Start" position on the ign. switch, and dies as soon as you switch it to "RUN" or "ON" I suspect the RESISTER or resistance wire. Sounds like it "might" be possible in this case. If you bi-passed the resister when you checked for spark, you missed it!

          StudeRich
          Studebakers Northwest
          Ferndale, WA
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

          Comment


          • #6
            I'm with Rich on this. The "I" terminal on the starter solenoid bypasses the ignition wire/resistor so long as you're cranking. The moment you let the key spring back to the run position, the engine's gonna get it's coil power from the resistor and associated wiring. If the reisitor's bad or the wiring going to it is bad - it's gonna be just as if you turned the key off.[}]

            Miscreant adrift in
            the BerStuda Triangle


            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
            1960 Larkvertible V8
            1958 Provincial wagon
            1953 Commander coupe

            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

            Comment


            • #7
              In addition to what Rich and Biggs said, you may want to check the ignition switch itself. Soon after I got my '62 GT Hawk it died as I was making a turn into a shopping center. It would catch and die so I pushed it and dumped the clutch and it started.

              It turns out that when I released the key when starting it would retreat to a "dead" zone and die out. However, when I moved it back manually it would continue to run. Almost 4 years later I have still not fixed it but know the solution.


              Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

              Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

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              Comment


              • #8
                well guys as suspected the resistor was shot. its so weird that it happened right after a valve adjustment. i did some research on my ignition setup and the coil i am running with my pertronix doesn't require a resistor so i just bypassed it and now it runs. i adjusted it back down to .012 after adj. it to.018 to rule it out, and there's one other thing thats like a slap in the face, this whole time i thought my flat spot was coming from my carb or bad valve adjustment, it ending up being bad gas, i switched from 87 to 91 and the flat spot went away instantly, i should have known better then to put 87 in with flat tops but oh well problem solved right?

                notsoslow64
                1964 lark daytona
                bd_marks@yahoo.com

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yah .. welcome to old tech performance. My Avanti pings like a son of
                  a banana if I dont put 91 in, and its lucky to be making 100 hp.[:I]

                  Tom
                  '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                  Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                  http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                  I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    You're doin' good, benny! I wanna hear from you, how it RUNS! once you get the bugs evicted![]

                    Miscreant adrift in
                    the BerStuda Triangle


                    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                    1960 Larkvertible V8
                    1958 Provincial wagon
                    1953 Commander coupe

                    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                    Comment

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