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Front coil springs, '63 Lark w/259

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  • Front coil springs, '63 Lark w/259

    I am ready to attack the coil springs for replacement. First, how do I determine the proper height? I can
    find no specs for this. Second, the shop manual calls for lowering the lower outer control arm to remove
    spring. I think it would be better to lower the lower inner control arm. Any reason not favoring this alternative
    method.

  • #2
    Bett, welcome to the Forum. We're glad to have you here!

    I did this job on my '63 Lark, and it's no picnic, but it can be done safely if you follow some precautions. Bob Johnstone's Avanti site outlines a procedure that I felt was safer than the manual's instructions; you can find it at http://www.studebaker-info.org/springremoval.html .

    The best reason for doing it this way and not the way you're suggesting is safety. With the spring under load, removing the inner lower pin-to-frame bolts from underneath is very dangerous, since you will have to work around the jack saddle you'll have to have positioned under the pin to keep the spring from unloading on you.

    If you do it the way the manual says, you'll be very safe and it'll all come apart without drama. I've got several posts on my blog with pics; start here: http://studeblogger.blogspot.com/200...uild-pt-1.html

    Cheers!

    Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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    • #3
      Oh, and as far as the proper coil springs - If you order from SI, they will know the proper application for your vehicle. Alternatively, try here: http://www.coilsprings.com/classic.aspx

      I used Coil Spring Specialties for my Lark. The springs are perfect and the company is great!

      Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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      • #4
        I tried to find some springs on SI's site & once again their searce machine couldn't find any springs of any kind. The quote from the link above was $205.00. I wanted to get more than one quote before spending any money. Anybody know any trick to coax a location on their site?

        BTW, this is for a 55 2nd series sedan, p/n 526130 or 526134
        Mike Sal

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        • #5
          Let me second the advise of Showbizkid, with one added comment.

          When I rebuilt the front suspension on my Avanti last month, the kingpin did not separate from the lower control arm when I lowered the jack. Let me suggest that if that happens, you need to loosen the nut a turn or two and rap the side of the knuckle with a hammer, preferably brass. I kept lowering the jack just enough to allow the knuckle to move down to the nut. It took a while but that coupled with a four foot long steel bar rapped with a small sledge finally worked the kingpin out of the knuckle.

          I must admit that I was a bit nervous banging on the knuckle that close even with the jack under it. That's why I finally resorted to the four foot bar and hammer so I had some distance.

          Bob

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          • #6
            WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!!
            I will 'second' Clark's recommendation for Coil Spring Specialties.
            I got mine before he did his, actually. Mine were nothing short of 'perfect'!!!
            Have your STUDEBAKER part number handy- and they'll make it right up for you...





            (I had mine lowered by one inch)

            My car is a '57 Commander, by the way...
            StudeDave '57
            US Navy (retired)

            3rd Generation Stude owner/driver
            SDC Member since 1985

            past President
            Whatcom County Chapter SDC
            San Diego Chapter SDC

            past Vice President
            San Diego Chapter SDC
            North Florida Chapter SDC

            Comment


            • #7
              Yeah, in fact, Dave gave me the tip on Coil Spring Specialties! They really did a fine job.

              Originally posted by sweetolbob View Post
              When I rebuilt the front suspension on my Avanti last month, the kingpin did not separate from the lower control arm when I lowered the jack. Let me suggest that if that happens, you need to loosen the nut a turn or two and rap the side of the knuckle with a hammer, preferably brass. I kept lowering the jack just enough to allow the knuckle to move down to the nut.
              Bob, I had the same thing happen. One side separated fine; the other side did not. I wound up doing just what Bob suggests - the key in the bottom of the kingpin was hanging up and that loosened it.

              Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

              Comment


              • #8
                Coil Spring Specialties in St. Mary's Kansas. They just finished custom fabricating springs for my 52 Champion. This is my 7th time to deal with them. They did custom work for my Lincolns and TBirds too. Best price, best quality, quick turn around, shipped to your door.
                1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45

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                • #9
                  I have replaced front coils in my Studes many times but never separated the the greased front end parts. The process I used was to jack the car up and place the side I was working on a jack stand. Then remove the front wheel, brakes, but not the fluid line, and hang it up to the side (I have disc brakes so this is easy), then the outer tie-rod. Then jack up the outer lower A-arm to the point where the upper A-arm is high enough to remove the rebound rubber under the upper A-arm, remove that. Then remove the upper A-arm bolts that attach it to the chassis. Once removed the jack can be let down slowly and the spring removed and replaced with a new/other spring. The reverse process is used to put it all back. The last time I did this was today and I guess it's a little more involved but I have never wanted to take the greased moving parts apart. Having drum brakes makes it harder or else one could disconnect the brake line and bleed the brakes later.

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