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Tremec T45RS 5 speed swap questions

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  • #46
    I have put two 54 coupe batwings on 53 model coupes. They bolt right up. The batwing does need to come off, of course, to remove the transmission if it is a tremec tko 500, and you are just removing the transmission, with engine in place. Some simple modification was required to make a transmission mount on the batwing, for the tko tremec. Thanks, m weiss

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    • #47
      No kidding....really? A jackstand? How about that.

      Originally posted by sbca96 View Post
      Thats your eyes playing tricks on you, the jack stand is blending in with that T-45's
      Pro5.0 shifter. <snip>
      Tom
      HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

      Jeff


      Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



      Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

      Comment


      • #48
        Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK View Post
        No kidding....really? A jackstand? How about that.
        Yes, but I know you knew that.

        Tom
        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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        • #49
          I'm looking at the frame schedule from the shop manual....the 53-54 frames are the same, hardtops + coupes the batwing should bolt right up to the 53 frame, with the help of the appropriate drill bit, I plan on installing one in my build. I am also going to use an Avanti X member.

          Bill Foy
          1000 Islands, Ontario
          1953 Starlight Coupe

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          • #50
            It would be interesting to see how an Avanti X-member (Lark frame) will hook up to a Hawk frame.
            Let us know how that goes.

            Originally posted by Captain Billy View Post
            I'm looking at the frame schedule from the shop manual....the 53-54 frames are the same, hardtops + coupes the batwing should bolt right up to the 53 frame, with the help of the appropriate drill bit, I plan on installing one in my build. I am also going to use an Avanti X member.
            HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

            Jeff


            Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



            Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

            Comment


            • #51
              Jeff...that is a 63 Avanti X in a 53 frame...it only requires a piece of 1/4' plate against the frame at the rear....will post some close ups later if there is interest.
              Bill Foy
              1000 Islands, Ontario
              1953 Starlight Coupe

              Comment


              • #52
                Originally posted by Captain Billy View Post
                Jeff...that is a 63 Avanti X in a 53 frame...it only requires a piece of 1/4' plate against the frame at the rear....will post some close ups later if there is interest.
                I'm very interested, are you building a 53 coupe then?

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                • #53
                  yes...hopefully
                  Bill Foy
                  1000 Islands, Ontario
                  1953 Starlight Coupe

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Post more pic's!


                    Originally posted by Captain Billy View Post
                    Jeff...that is a 63 Avanti X in a 53 frame...it only requires a piece of 1/4' plate against the frame at the rear....will post some close ups later if there is interest.
                    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                    Jeff


                    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Of coarse I will loose the two piece drive shaft and the foot wells in the back but then I never go in the back, and I will pick up more muffler room.
                      Here is how it fits:
                      front right

                      Front Left

                      Rear
                      Last edited by Captain Billy; 11-18-2010, 12:17 PM. Reason: forgetful
                      Bill Foy
                      1000 Islands, Ontario
                      1953 Starlight Coupe

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Bill thanks for the pics, that looks pretty good to me
                        Don't know how easily it would install with the body on tho.
                        That looks like some heavy gauge steel, heavier than the frame.
                        You won't miss the foot wells, but you will sure like the extra space underneath, I think I'm removing mine this winter.

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Well after many hours, (20 hours of work…no really!) I got the batwing crossmember off of my car. Last night, I opened both doors, and they open and close just as if there was a crossmember installed. I do not know what kind of progress you are making Bob, but if you are slower than me (not likely) you have probably discovered this. I literally scraped 5lbs of tar/grease/dirt/and sand off of, and from the inside, of my crossmember. Both ends of the crossmember had split open at the spot welded seams along the length from the where the frame bolts on to the very ends and had spread a gap up to about 3/16” of an inch. I am positive that this was not due to rust, as after I cleaned out all of the grime from the gap, the metal was in very good condition. I had a lot of trouble welding the crossmember back together as grease or oil from the inside cavity would flow into the welds and contaminate them. I finally got some decent welds completed…not pretty, but I think they will do the trick. In retrospect, I should have taken the crossmember and had it hot-tanked somewhere… Extra motivated last night, as I bolted on my trans. to discover that the shifter will just about line up with the hole that was previously occupied with the Mustang shifter that controlled the Turbo 350, and the T5 mount is within an inch of where the automatic mount is. Regards, Junior
                          sigpic
                          1954 C5 Hamilton car.

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Originally posted by junior View Post
                            Well after many hours, (20 hours of work…no really!) I got the batwing crossmember off of my car. Last night, I opened both doors, and they open and close just as if there was a crossmember installed. I do not know what kind of progress you are making Bob, but if you are slower than me (not likely) you have probably discovered this. I literally scraped 5lbs of tar/grease/dirt/and sand off of, and from the inside, of my crossmember. Both ends of the crossmember had split open at the spot welded seams along the length from the where the frame bolts on to the very ends and had spread a gap up to about 3/16” of an inch. I am positive that this was not due to rust, as after I cleaned out all of the grime from the gap, the metal was in very good condition. I had a lot of trouble welding the crossmember back together as grease or oil from the inside cavity would flow into the welds and contaminate them. I finally got some decent welds completed…not pretty, but I think they will do the trick. In retrospect, I should have taken the crossmember and had it hot-tanked somewhere… Extra motivated last night, as I bolted on my trans. to discover that the shifter will just about line up with the hole that was previously occupied with the Mustang shifter that controlled the Turbo 350, and the T5 mount is within an inch of where the automatic mount is. Regards, Junior
                            Well, my progress is at a snail's pace. Like you found, my batwing was full o'crud and was separating at the ends. Fortunately there was no rust-through on the batwing so after much cleaning, a bit of welding, priming and painting I have that set aside. I am still cleaning underneath the car so the actual motor/tranny install is still quite a ways down on the to-do list. I've spent days cleaning out the frame. Literally buckets of dirt. Keep in mind that I'm in Minnesota and have to do everything inside so cleaning/scraping/degreasing is slow work. But I'm getting there.

                            My worst set-back thus far is finding two rust holes in the bottom of the frame just ahead of the rear axle drivers side. Found 'em when scraping out the frame and banging on it with a bfh. I preped the area, made patches with the plasma cutter and a neighbor did a right and proper repair for me. I was sure there would be more rust on the frame but I spent an entire day banging, poking and scraping and didn't find anything else.

                            I think that another full day of cleaning will allow me to start doing some painting underneath and engine compartment. Meanwhile, I got the gas tank redone by Gas Tank Renu, had a 3-core radiator made (and the heater core), cleaned and painted the water manifold and plopped in the new w.p.

                            I know this is off the 5-speed subject but I'll eventually get to that again.
                            sigpic
                            Bob Shaw
                            Rush City, Minnesota
                            1960 Hawk - www.northstarstudebakers.com
                            "The farther I go, the behinder I get."

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              Trans in; clutch shaft dilemma

                              After a very long delay I finally got the new motor and T45RS transmission installed in my 60 Hawk. I did have to modify the batwing crossmember (notching it about 2" then reinforcing it with new plate steel).

                              HOWEVER, I have a dilemma in dealing with the clutch shaft end bearing/bracket that has to be solved before proceeding.

                              As you may recall, its a 60 Hawk, 289 hooked to a modified Keisler T45RS 5-speed (similar in dimension to a TKO) through the stock Studebaker bellhousing and clutch and a Dan Giblin adapter.

                              My dilemma is the clutch shaft butts right up against the transmission allowing no room for the end support bracket. See the picture below.

                              I knew that I would need to fabricate a new bracket mounting but failed to see that the width of the new transmission was wider enough to cause this problem until I actually had it installed and could see the lack of clearance.

                              So, look at the picture and make any suggestions on how I can/should proceed with modifying the clutch shaft (if even possible) to allow for a solid, safe clutch hook-up.

                              Frankly, I do not see how the clutch shaft end bracket can fit with the adapter plate there regardless of tranny connected to it but I assume a regular T5 would fit without further mods.

                              sigpic
                              Bob Shaw
                              Rush City, Minnesota
                              1960 Hawk - www.northstarstudebakers.com
                              "The farther I go, the behinder I get."

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                I could make the shaft narrower for you. But by how much? And you will still have to figure out the bracket before hand to know the proper dimensions.

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