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Fender rust prevention

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  • #16
    I "rust-proofed" my 56J 24 years ago. It was a simple job, and there is still no sign of rust or paint bubbling as of today. Where the front fender is bent back on itself use a paint-able caulking compound to seal the seam, then coat with POR-15 and then rubberized undercoating, do the same for the three part vent door areas if so equipped. Dirt and water get in there and start rusting the vent doors.
    When you get vents assembled, use a small amount of fiberglass filled or metal filled body filler and seal the seam that goes around the vent door. You need less than a teaspoon so try and borrow some rather than buying a $30 quart can.

    For the area behind the headlight a lot of POR-15 and a can of rubberized undercoating. Also undercoat inside the A pillar. You can spray through the hinges and also the open areas at the kick pads. First POR-15 then undercoating, do the same for the areas below the side windows in the rear.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Paul Keller View Post
      Have used a zinc anti-rust spray-on (over bare metal) before assembly, then (after several days drying) a liberal coating of POR. After assembly, sprayed sound deadner/undercoating several times over seams. Local body man wonders who I am "saving" this car for ? ?.
      Paul K
      I'm not being critical but just trying to learn with my question Paul as I am going to start a resto on a 65 Ford F-100 soon. I thought that POR-15 was designed to adhere and work best to being applied to metal that has been cleaned of dirt and grease but still has a coating of rust, so that it adheres to the rust. Does it adhere to something that has been cleaned with a primer or in your case a zinc anti-rust spray-on over the metal?
      sigpic
      John
      63R-2386
      Resto-Mod by Michael Myer

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