Vintage Air in late Lark ('64) What fits under the dash?

[mrobertweiss]

Gen IV system in a 53 , this is a floor view, from standing or seated in the vehicle, it's really not noticeable. OEM evap units look like this all the time. It may bother some, but to me it's unobtrusive, and makes the whole thing easier to do. The gen 4 is much more powerful and a better unit overall, also.

[Jim B PEI]

This is JUST for CASOs but, if you have a Hawk, certain Jeep units will fit in quite nicely under the dash, end to end-fit is really quite good. Friend did that to his finned 61 driver Hawk. its works so strong that it has to be turned off

[4961Studebaker]

it won't be bolt in but

the Vintage Air Gen II MINI is your best bet in your cruiser,
some mounting points and brackets will be needed
heater core/cowl will need to be blocked off. The unit will tuck up nicely under the dash but will be visible.

The next item to tackle is where you would put all the vents, (mini) 2 defrost thats a given, and up to 3 additional ducts make your cruiser dash very crowded.

Guess it boils down to how much work do you want to put into it.

[oldguy]

Vintage air

my 54 pcikup came with an old under dash unit. Installed a new condenser, dryer, sanden compressor and hoses from VA, but kept the old under dash evaporator. Works great. New system/old look. They even had the proper cpmpressor bracket for my engine and the compressor mounts right where the old york was.

[Warren Webb]

I used Freeze 12 in my 93 Ranger pickup and was very impressed with the results. 93 was the last year they used R-12 in the Ranger. I will use it in the wifes Mercedes and the #1 Avanti when its A/C system is installed.

[Rerun]

I've been looking into some A/C for my '64 cruiser and was looking into a new underdash unit from vintage air. It doesn't look period but it is the old hang on style and won't look to bad. The other option I was considering was a trunk mount unit and not clutter up the dash. What I'd like to know is where vintage air pull hot water from when you use thier compresser bracket as it covers the outlet in the top of the water manifold.

I used the Vintage Air system on my Daytona. See above. The compressor bracket DOES interfere with the heater fitting/hose. The factory A/C cars had the fitting on the driver's side of the manifold. What I did was to plug the existing hole (with a pipe plug) and drill and tap the other side (there is a boss in the casting) to accept a fitting. I used a street ell and a "pipe to hose" adapter fitting.

I installed the combo unit and it worked well. But, I would strongly recommend leaving the existing heat/defrost and simply adding an under dash unit. As far as trunk mounting, I wouldn't even consider that. Getting the cooled air to the driver and front passenger would be virtually impossible. Look at the 50's vintage cars that had the evaporator in the trunk. They had long clear plastic tubes that, at best, blew cold air on the back of the driver's neck. Forget that scheme.

[rusty nut garage]

the vintage bracket is close but the heater fitting should clear. some of the dealer installed aftermarket of the day pulled the hot water off the rear of the passenger side cylinder head. this is extremly close also and takes a street elbow to clear. Also there are some water pump manifolds that have a boss on the drivers side that you can drill and tap for a pipe fitting.

I've been looking into some A/C for my '64 cruiser and was looking into a new underdash unit from vintage air. It doesn't look period but it is the old hang on style and won't look to bad. The other option I was considering was a trunk mount unit and not clutter up the dash. What I'd like to know is where vintage air pull hot water from when you use thier compresser bracket as it covers the outlet in the top of the water manifold.

[KD0FRQ]

I've been looking into some A/C for my '64 cruiser and was looking into a new underdash unit from vintage air. It doesn't look period but it is the old hang on style and won't look to bad. The other option I was considering was a trunk mount unit and not clutter up the dash. What I'd like to know is where vintage air pull hot water from when you use thier compresser bracket as it covers the outlet in the top of the water manifold.

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

I was just reading about Freeze 12 and I am impressed! If I can charge the old system with that, then I just have a small bracket to fix and I'm good to go. Will probably convert to R-134a later on and make some upgrades at that time. I really don't want to re-design the underside of the dash, so untill I hear of a system that fits without a bunch of cutting, I'll stick with the Fridgette. (Unless I stumble accross a good Studebaker unit!)

I have a Studebaker Unit taking up room in my shop. I have no idea what it is even worth.

Allen

[mausersmth]

If you decide to just repair the old unit that you have, you could try the Freeze 12 replacement juice. It is made by Johnson , and you can buy it on line no lic. required. I have used it for several years in older a/c systems for customers and no complaints, works good. It is a drop in replacement for R-12.. And the suction and head pressures stay the same as well.

If you decide to convert to 134a That old York is near bullet proof and will stand the increased pressures from the 134 better than most. But, sad to say A thing of quiet smooth running beauty it is not. DMc

I was just reading about Freeze 12 and I am impressed! If I can charge the old system with that, then I just have a small bracket to fix and I'm good to go. Will probably convert to R-134a later on and make some upgrades at that time. I really don't want to re-design the underside of the dash, so untill I hear of a system that fits without a bunch of cutting, I'll stick with the Fridgette. (Unless I stumble accross a good Studebaker unit!)

[TroyN]

Would that system work with a 170 OHV?

[Dean McHenry]

If you decide to just repair the old unit that you have, you could try the Freeze 12 replacement juice. It is made by Johnson , and you can buy it on line no lic. required. I have used it for several years in older a/c systems for customers and no complaints, works good. It is a drop in replacement for R-12.. And the suction and head pressures stay the same as well.

If you decide to convert to 134a That old York is near bullet proof and will stand the increased pressures from the 134 better than most. But, sad to say A thing of quiet smooth running beauty it is not. DMc

[scott.rodgers]

I'm in the process of putting a space saver Vintage Air unit in my 66 and it's a bear. I even had to cut a piece out of the unit to get it to fit the floor (but I do have a custom trans tunnel though). I plan on doing some sort of "knee bar" to cover part of the unit up under the dash. Even though it looks like the unit is hanging low, it still takes up most of the glove compartment. I'll have to make some sort of custom insert eventually. If I didn't have a custom center console, I would probably have gone with an underdash unit.

[mausersmth]

Think I'd be ahead to just flush out the old system and update to the HFC-134a? I know the system would need a good flush, new lubricant, new access ports, new dryer, in my case probably new hoses and I believe the evaporator needs a switch updated? Might not be too bad a job and should be cheaper, leaving more money for other things...
Should I update the compressor? A Sanden would be smoother and easier to turn then the old York one.
Just thought if I needed to mess with it I'd upgrade, as this is my daily driver 9 months out of the year...

[Rerun]

Check with Rerun about how he did his combined in-dash unit- very slick, but not simple. Personally I was completely satisfied with the Vintage-type unit Railway put together for me for my '64 Daytona convertible. It was pretty unobtrusive under the dash and very powerful. It is much quieter and pulls a lot less power.

I installed the Vintage air "Super Gen II w/def" combination unit in my '64 Daytona. I wanted to tuck everything up under the dash for a really clean look. I even ducted two outlets through the dash. Would I do it that way again? NO!!!

It was really tight under that dash. To make room, I had to remove the Climatizer, old heater core and close that opening. Major modification of the glove box was required. The heater core inlet and outlet tubes of the Vintage Air unit point the wrong way (to the right) so a lot of plumbing was required. Everything "almost fit" under the dash. I still have scarred knuckles! I hate to think of the hours that I ended up putting into that adventure. Yep, it can be done and it's nice when it's finished, but what a job! I would recommend leaving the existing heat/defrost, and adding the "under dash" like Paul did.