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Heatin' & Beatin' rear hubs

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  • Heatin' & Beatin' rear hubs

    I am in the early process of installing Jim Turner disc brakes (front and rear) on my 51 Champion. I've read many old threads about the difficulty in removing rear hubs and my initial reaction was "What a bunch of whiners, just take the dang things off!"

    Well, as of this morning I apologize for all my inconsiderate thoughts to those of you that have complained about this. I DID get them off, but boy am I glad this is the only/last time (since I will now have discs).

    I heated, pulled, beat, heated some more, and pulled - almost to the point I thought the center rod of my puller was going to damage the axle ( I did have the castle nut on the end - thanks for that tip). All in all it was a 2 hour process.

    I'm glad my 6 year-old son was at school, he usually helps me on week ends. He would have learned some new words that he probably shouldn't know.

    I'll keep you updated and post pictures when the disc brakes are done.

    Las Vegas, NV
    '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by vegas paul

    I am in the early process of installing Jim Turner disc brakes (front and rear) on my 51 Champion. I've read many old threads about the difficulty in removing rear hubs and my initial reaction was "What a bunch of whiners, just take the dang things off!"
    Well, as of this morning I apologize for all my inconsiderate thoughts to those of you that have complained about this. I DID get them off, but boy am I glad this is the only/last time (since I will now have discs).
    I heated, pulled, beat, heated some more, and pulled - almost to the point I thought the center rod of my puller was going to damage the axle ( I did have the castle nut on the end - thanks for that tip). All in all it was a 2 hour process.
    I'm glad my 6 year-old son was at school, he usually helps me on week ends. He would have learned some new words that he probably shouldn't know.
    I'll keep you updated and post pictures when the disc brakes are done.
    Sounds as if you weren't using the proper hub puller. I have never had to heat or beat hubs to loosen them.


    [img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson
    '53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
    '64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
    '64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
    Museum R-4 engine
    Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
    '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine

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    • #3
      You need a bigger hammer. I've pulled them on dozens of Studebakers without a issue. I sometime had to stand up and hit the dog bone with a full two handed swing. A good rap straight on now and then helps, but never missed the satisfying "pop" when it lets go. I've even had them pop when i walked away to take a break.

      64 Commander-64 Daytona
      64 GT R2 clone-63 GT R2
      63 Avanti R1
      63 Daytona convert-63
      63 Lark 2 door
      62 Lark 2 door
      60 Lark HT-60Hawk
      59 3E truck
      52 & 53 Starliner
      51 Commander

      JDP Maryland

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      • #4
        Last time I had them off the passenger side launched itself about 2 feet while I was going for the bigger hammer.

        ErnieR

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        • #5
          I've learned the joys of stuck hubs recently and without the proper puller and big hammer for tapping the hub mind you, getting them to come off is nearly impossiable, those things weren't designed to ever come off. Good times and character building material for sure.

          Randy_G
          1959 Lark Sedan
          www.AutomotiveHistoryOnline.com

          Comment


          • #6
            I was just looking at the Snap-On master catalog this morning and they still have the puller available for the same price as SI. So, do you buy from a Stude vendor to help support the hobby or from a supplier of lifetime gauranteed tools?

            Brad Johnson
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight
            "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

            Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

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            • #7
              I understand completely, vegas paul. I had one last fall that was just like yours. The first one came off like the other guys described but the other one was like yours, heating, cranking down the puller until I couldn't turn the wrench anymore, whack, more heat, quench and so on. I think I said a few words also.

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              • #8
                I was using the right puller... one came off in about 10 minutes (with no heating) the other had an attitude. I borrowed the puller, and I'll never need it again (for this car!). I look forward to posting a few pictures of the disc brake upgrade as I find the time to work on it.

                Las Vegas, NV
                '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

                Comment


                • #9
                  Has anyone tried a home made puller like this?


                  It is simple and che--, inexpensive to make.
                  When you use this puller, remove the axle nut,put all five wheel nuts on the hub leaving about 3/8" between the hub and puller. Next hand tighten the center bolt against the axle. Use a air gun or 1/2" drive ratchet and 3/4" socket and tighten all the wheel nuts a bit in sequence. This gives a five bolt straight out even pulling effect and the hub comes off quite easily. ( notice all the hammer marks on the center bolt)
                  Chuck

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                  • #10
                    Make sure you leave the nut on the axle shaft to keep it from becoming
                    a missle when it lets go. Its really best NOT to hit the hub, and as
                    I mentioned in my Mustang rear disc setup thread, the hubs are easy to
                    bend!! When they are bent, it will cause extra runout on your rotor &
                    you will feel a pulsation in the brake pedal. One of mine was over
                    .011, that will roughly double depending on the size of Turners rear
                    discs. Max runout allowable at the edge of the rotor is preferrably
                    around .005. Wacking the hub surface with a large hammer can take out
                    any low numbers, but turning the hub on a lathe will be required for
                    any high numbers. You should check the hub with a dial indicator. Its
                    possible to bend the hubs JUST by removing the hub, since the pullers
                    pull on only 3 of the studs, so the one out by itself will get bent.

                    I also found that ONE of my axles was bent years ago by someone prying
                    on the hub with a rather large bar. The bar must have been placed in
                    between the hub and backing plate with the drum removed. There were a
                    few marks ON the hub, and the axle was bent opposite those marks.

                    Good luck!

                    Tom

                    '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
                    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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                    • #11
                      Hey I took the rear hubs off of a 61 Lark bought the right puller listened to all of the advice. I got lucky had the right size hammer too. I sure impressed the neighbor and my husband.

                      Mabel 1949 Champion
                      1957 Silverhawk
                      1955 Champion 4Dr.Regal
                      Gus 1958 Transtar
                      Fresno,Ca

                      Mabel 1949 Champion
                      Hawk 1957 Silverhawk
                      Gus 1958 Transtar
                      The Prez 1955 President State
                      Blu 1957 Golden Hawk
                      Daisy 1954 Regal Commander Starlight Coupe
                      Fresno,Ca

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                      • #12
                        You can buy a new one in a red plastic case for about $50 on a buy it now. I believe Anne F. Goodman in this post referred me to this company. Just do a search on ebay for wheel pullers..........Brad
                        quote:Originally posted by rockne10

                        I was just looking at the Snap-On master catalog this morning and they still have the puller available for the same price as SI. So, do you buy from a Stude vendor to help support the hobby or from a supplier of lifetime gauranteed tools?

                        Brad Johnson
                        Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                        '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Saw this rig on a different website[:0]......



                          Put the nut on flush, and support it with a jackstand...
                          Ought to work....
                          Jeff[8D]




                          http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
                          HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                          Jeff


                          Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                          Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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                          • #14
                            That hydraulic jobbie might work, but it was clearly a lot of work to make, and there is a lot of stretch in those lo-ong pieces of Redi Rod.

                            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
                            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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                            • #15
                              that makes my back hurt just looking at the picture

                              quote:Originally posted by gordr

                              That hydraulic jobbie might work, but it was clearly a lot of work to make, and there is a lot of stretch in those lo-ong pieces of Redi Rod.

                              Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

                              Russ Shop Foreman "Rusty Nut Garage"
                              53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
                              57 SH (project)
                              60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

                              Russ Shop Foreman \"Rusty Nut Garage\"
                              53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
                              57 SH (project)
                              60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

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