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GTTim /JDP - Swapping GT Hawk engine

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  • GTTim /JDP - Swapping GT Hawk engine

    I was wondering the best way to swap the engine in my 64 GT Hawk. I will be changing the bellhousing to one that has been dialed in to the new engine block. Which will be the easiest method: remove the cross member and pull the entire Engine and transmission or block the transmission up and just pull the engine. I have heard mixed feelings on both methods.

    The transmission is a powershift and I have just ordered a new flex plate for the swap.

    What's my best plan of attack?

    I would like to do this project just after the South Bend International meet at the end of June.

    1964 GT Hawk soon to be R2 Clone
    1964 GT Hawk
    PSMCDR 2014
    Best time: 14.473 sec. 96.57 MPH quarter mile
    PSMCDR 2013
    Best time: 14.654 sec. 94.53 MPH quarter

    Victoria, Canada

  • #2
    Well it's your choice, but I like to have the whole assy. easily accessible on the floor to do any re-sealing engine, replacing/re-threading Exhaust Studs, re-painting, fluid drains, and fills, bolting and centering the Converter and housing, installing the trans. re-sealing the Trans. etc. nice and easily. Then after installation there is little to do on your back, under the car!

    StudeRich
    Studebakers Northwest
    Ferndale, WA
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

    Comment


    • #3
      I've never had to remove the X member to pull the drive line.

      64 Commander-64 Daytona
      64 GT R2 clone-63 GT R2
      63 Avanti R1
      63 Daytona convert-63
      63 Lark 2 door
      62 Lark 2 door
      60 Lark HT-60Hawk
      59 3E truck
      52 & 53 Starliner
      51 Commander

      JDP Maryland

      Comment


      • #4
        [quote]Originally posted by JDP

        I've never had to remove the X member to pull the drive line.

        John, I think he is talking about the small crossmember that supports the rear engine mounts. If you don't take that one out can you still get enough angle on the engine to get it out with the transmission attached?

        Tim K.
        '64 R2 GT Hawk
        Tim K.
        \'64 R2 GT Hawk

        Comment


        • #5
          Pull and install it nose high with a buddy under the car to raise the tail shaft for the last few feet gong back. N8 always tells me you can't do it, but he's been there to see it done 3-4 times.

          64 Commander-64 Daytona
          64 GT R2 clone-63 GT R2
          63 Avanti R1
          63 Daytona convert-63
          63 Lark 2 door
          62 Lark 2 door
          60 Lark HT-60Hawk
          59 3E truck
          52 & 53 Starliner
          51 Commander

          JDP Maryland

          Comment


          • #6
            If N8's not under the car who is?

            The consensus is pull the entire drive train and leave the rear x-member in. Adjust the engine hoist to set the front of the engine high and lift the rear of the transmission past the cross member from under the car. Is it best to remove the rear mounts totally or just remove the 4 side bolts? When I pull this drive train out is there any items that I should replace other than the old flex plate?
            If so what would you recommend? My plan is to replace the transmission pan seal and a side gasket that has a slight leak. Is there any other maintanance items I should look at when I swap the 289 for my new R2? Between the engine and the tranny?

            What would your recommend to remove prior the the engine pull. ex.) Remove all fuilds. Remove Transmission filler tube? Oil breather tube on R2? what else should be off?


            1964 GT Hawk soon to be R2 Clone
            1964 GT Hawk
            PSMCDR 2014
            Best time: 14.473 sec. 96.57 MPH quarter mile
            PSMCDR 2013
            Best time: 14.654 sec. 94.53 MPH quarter

            Victoria, Canada

            Comment


            • #7
              Other then the fluids, I leave the tubes mentioned on, they don't get in the way.

              64 Commander-64 Daytona
              64 GT R2 clone-63 GT R2
              63 Avanti R1
              63 Daytona convert-63
              63 Lark 2 door
              62 Lark 2 door
              60 Lark HT-60Hawk
              59 3E truck
              52 & 53 Starliner
              51 Commander

              JDP Maryland

              Comment


              • #8
                don't forget to remove throttle linkage and oil pressure line, wiring to coil, ground strap, temp. gauge wire, etc. I think it's easier if you are doing this by yourself to completely remove the throttle bellcrank and throttle pressure linkage, it flops around and catches on stuff. I think it might be easier to remove the crossmember but it's one of those things where removing the x-member is kind of a PITA as well, so it's your call. It is near impossible to get everything out without dragging the trans. across the crossmember unless you have a helper.

                --
                55 Commander Starlight
                http://members.cox.net/njnagel
                --
                55 Commander Starlight
                http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                Comment


                • #9
                  Pull the distributor!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The most common leakers are the front pump seal and the tail seal, I always change them while it's out because if they are not leaking, they probably will be! [:0]

                    quote:Originally posted by studebaker-R2-4-me

                    Is there any other maintanance items I should look at when I swap the 289 for my new R2? Between the engine and the tranny?
                    StudeRich
                    Studebakers Northwest
                    Ferndale, WA
                    StudeRich
                    Second Generation Stude Driver,
                    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Very good point. My powershift is leaking everywhere at least there is oil everywhere. I have already purchased a pan gasket and a small side gasket part# 1541085 where there are obvious leaks but I never considered to replace the front and rear pump seals. What all is involved to replace these seals? Do I have to remove both front and rear housings to get at the front and rear pump seals? If so I would imagine I will also require a new Gasket for each housing.

                      Are these the part numbers for the front and rear seals along with the associated gaskets?

                      Front seal Part# 1540922
                      Front Gasket Part# 1540930
                      Rear Seal Part# 1553737
                      Rear Gasket Part# 1541087

                      Any other good hints?


                      Allen(out to stop the leaks for a couple of years)Anderson

                      1964 GT Hawk soon to be R2 Clone
                      1964 GT Hawk
                      PSMCDR 2014
                      Best time: 14.473 sec. 96.57 MPH quarter mile
                      PSMCDR 2013
                      Best time: 14.654 sec. 94.53 MPH quarter

                      Victoria, Canada

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I was under the hawk last night and the rear transmission seal does not look like it is leaking but I do have a drip off the front universal joint of transmission oil is this the precursor to a real seal Leak?

                        1964 GT Hawk soon to be R2 Clone
                        1964 GT Hawk
                        PSMCDR 2014
                        Best time: 14.473 sec. 96.57 MPH quarter mile
                        PSMCDR 2013
                        Best time: 14.654 sec. 94.53 MPH quarter

                        Victoria, Canada

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          quote:Originally posted by studebaker-R2-4-me

                          I was under the hawk last night and the rear transmission seal does not look like it is leaking but I do have a drip off the front universal joint of transmission oil is this the precursor to a real seal Leak?

                          1964 GT Hawk soon to be R2 Clone
                          Allen, I think the deal with leaking transmissions is all about quantity. I don't believe there is such a thing as a Borg-Warner transmission that doesn't leak a little here or there. The major question would be, are you reluctant to park the car in a friends driveway because it would leave too large a puddle? Then it needs fixing. Now having said that, if I were swapping the engine and not terribly, completely short on money, I would just pull the tranny and take it to a rebuilder, who for about $500 would put new seals and gaskets in it. I would also put new seals in the torque converter. Then they would be done and you could drive with some assurance that you will not have to be going under the car again in the next couple years. Consider also that you are changing to an engine of higher horsepower and those old teenage urges to 'see what she'll do' might put some extra strain on those components.

                          Tim K.
                          '64 R2 GT Hawk
                          Tim K.
                          \'64 R2 GT Hawk

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I'm resurrecting this old post to give an update on my Nimesh built R2 engine swap. I've managed to secure an re-built powershift transmission, HD Avanti torque converter, and new a flex plate. My plan is to start the project during my holiday Dec 14 - January 7

                            I going to drain all fluids, disconnect what I have too. Remove the hood and remove the rad. I am now considering restoring the engine bay and repainting the inner fenders and the firewall.

                            Before the new engine goes in I also plan to rebuild the power steering system which is another source of constant small leaks.

                            I just might have a Studebaker that does not leak for a year or two.





                            1964 GT Hawk soon to be R2 Clone
                            1964 GT Hawk
                            PSMCDR 2014
                            Best time: 14.473 sec. 96.57 MPH quarter mile
                            PSMCDR 2013
                            Best time: 14.654 sec. 94.53 MPH quarter

                            Victoria, Canada

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hint, if you are cloning the car, the Avanti pump will not clear the factory frame mount on the left side and now would be a good time to make a fuel return line too.

                              JDP/Maryland
                              63 R2 SuperHawk (Caesar)
                              spent to date $54664,75
                              64 R2 GT (Sid)
                              spent to date $62,439.30
                              63 Lark 2 door
                              52 Starliner
                              51 Commander
                              39 Coupe express
                              39 Coupe express (rod)

                              JDP Maryland

                              Comment

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