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  • Avanti Voltage Regulator?

    We're rebuilding the Prestolite alternator right now. Noticed in the shop manual that the currently installed voltage regulator on my 63 R2 is different than the one shown in the Shop Manual. Mine only has 3 connections; Field, Ignition and Ground. The OE type apparently has 4 connections. I saw an original NOS prestolite VR on eBay last week and mine sure don't look like it. What is missing and what are the consequences? Thanks.
    edp/NC
    \'63 Avanti
    \'66 Commander

  • #2
    Remember a while back when you made the remark on my post showing the Electronic Regulator for Lark/Hawk: "well whats so special about an Avanti Regulator"? I suspected then that you had the small single contact Lark/Hawk/Chrysler type regulator for a 35 Amp. Prestolite on your Avanti, instead of the huge 3 contact one required for 40 Amp.
    I was not about to argue the point, I just let it go.
    If I am right, that would explain your confusion! If I am wrong then, I have no clue what your problem is.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

    Comment


    • #3
      The Avanti regulators were larger because they contained an additional relay that protected the system from reverse polarity (not really necessary IMHO). Back in the 70's, these became very scarce. With minor wiring changes, the smaller, commonly available regulator could be substituted. The size had nothing to do with the amperage of the regulator, as it regulates only the voltage of the rotor. The same small regulator was used with Chrysler 70 amp alternators.

      I recall making this change on my '63 Avanti back then. It sounds like you have one that is similarly modified. Since this was more than 25 years ago, I don't recall the specifics. Your options would include leaving the smaller regulator in place, as they work fine. They are commonly available, and a solid state version is now available for about $12 at Some FLAPS, e.g. Auto Zone. Otherwise, get a copy of the electrical schematic for the Avanti and compare it to the schematic for a '64 Lark type. It should then be apparent exactly what was changed, and what would be necessary to change it back to the original configuration. Unless you are concerned about show points, I would leave it as is.
      Jim Bradley
      Lake Monticello, VA
      '78 Avanti II
      sigpic

      Comment


      • #4
        I was asking a legitimate question in your post because I didn't know the difference (ignorance). Trying to be on the safe-side, I bid over $200 last week in an auction for an original Prestolite VR. I still didn't win it. But, it appears from Rerun's comment that aside from "show points" the Chrysler type VR is clearly workable on an Avanti. I was mainly wondering for the OE type VR where the 4th wire goes and what is its purpose? I suppose I should compare the wiring diagrams in my Avanti versus Lark Shop Manuals.

        Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
        Remember a while back when you made the remark on my post showing the Electronic Regulator for Lark/Hawk: "well whats so special about an Avanti Regulator"? I suspected then that you had the small single contact Lark/Hawk/Chrysler type regulator for a 35 Amp. Prestolite on your Avanti, instead of the huge 3 contact one required for 40 Amp.
        I was not about to argue the point, I just let it go.
        If I am right, that would explain your confusion! If I am wrong then, I have no clue what your problem is.
        edp/NC
        \'63 Avanti
        \'66 Commander

        Comment


        • #5
          I just went through this with my Lark. I bought two NOS regulators off of eBay for over $100 and both ended up being junk. Though they looked to be new, they did not function correctly and one ruined my generator. I bought a new replacement for the Delco, NAPA had it, and replaced the cover with my original one. You can perhaps do the same thing for your Prestolite originality.
          Not sure about your wiring, but unless you have a loose wire dangling at your regulator location, that fourth connection may be for a ground wire. NAPA has a list of replacement regulator part numbers in their books. Find your number and go in to cross reference. I will never buy a NOS regulator again.

          Comment


          • #6
            This is why I converted my R1 to a GM style altenator and got rid of the VR.

            Tom
            '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
            Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
            http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
            I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

            Comment


            • #7
              David Thibeault sells a solid state voltage regulator inside a black metal case same size as the original factory regulator and puts a Prestolite decal on it that makes it identical to the original factory regulator in apperance. You get a solid state regulator, an original looking factory one and no deducts for judging. Makes a lot more since than bidding on an old mechanical regulator that may or may not be good. His parts list in Avanti magazine says $69 with core exchange.
              sigpic
              John
              63R-2386
              Resto-Mod by Michael Myer

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              • #8
                The correct Avanti regulators are $80.00

                http://www.thefind.com/query.php?que...estolite+8-223
                JDP Maryland

                Comment


                • #9
                  John,
                  Those do not mount the same as the originals! They have the mounting holes on the sides. The originals have them on the ends. Dave T-Bow just did mine on my Avanti. He no longer has cores, so you'll need to have a core for him to rebuild.

                  Jim
                  "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

                  We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


                  Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

                  As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
                  their Memorials!

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                  • #10
                    I have a voltage regulator that i bought from Jon Myer ,i had Dave T-bow convert it to electronic,when i had my altenator rebuilt.
                    When my presto junk altenator went bad again it took the regulator with it.I am now on the 2nd altenator rebuild &2nd electronic regulator.
                    If it goes again they are going in the trash,i will go to a GM or Chrysler altenator.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 52 Ragtop View Post
                      John,
                      Those do not mount the same as the originals! They have the mounting holes on the sides. The originals have them on the ends. Dave T-Bow just did mine on my Avanti. He no longer has cores, so you'll need to have a core for him to rebuild.

                      Jim

                      I don't mind, once mounted you have to be pretty anal to care that much.
                      JDP Maryland

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I bid on that same VR but stoped at $200.00 in the last 3 seconds some one had a snipe bid & won it forget the amount.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Correct. I talked with Mr. T-bow this week. No VR cores.

                          Originally posted by 52 Ragtop View Post
                          John,
                          Those do not mount the same as the originals! They have the mounting holes on the sides. The originals have them on the ends. Dave T-Bow just did mine on my Avanti. He no longer has cores, so you'll need to have a core for him to rebuild.

                          Jim
                          edp/NC
                          \'63 Avanti
                          \'66 Commander

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            My existing Prestolite alternator turned out to be only the regular Stude, non-Avanti 35 Amp type. Right now it's at L&H Electrical being rebuilt. I wonder what problems, if any, I'll encounter with a 35 versus 40 amp alternator on an R2? Maybe I should switch to the GM type like on my '66 Commander.
                            edp/NC
                            \'63 Avanti
                            \'66 Commander

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Ed...

                              Since your R2 won't have a/c and, unless you add equipment that has significant electrical draw, you may not have any problems whatsoever. If you have power windows, that's only an issue for a few seconds at a time. You might think about keeping that alternator as long as it works and concentrate on more necessary items as you complete your car.

                              Maybe you might find a 40 amp down the road (think Ebay) and then pick it up. If not, consider an upgrade to a GM/Mopar/Toyota alternator once everything else is completed.
                              Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

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