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between foor pans

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  • between foor pans

    Hello everyone!
    Question: I know they sell floor pans and trunk panels to weld in your car BUT--What if you want to replace the area between the floor pans? For example--the area that covers the automatic transmission between the two front pans? It's kind of a rounded shape with a changing radius. I assume you would have to fabricate these yourself. This would be a difficult job indeed. Anyone have any experience with this? Of course we can't underestimate the resourcefulness of Studeebaker owners. Regards---Dan Ward

  • #2
    You would either have to make your own (difficult) or get them from a donor car, noone makes them.
    Frank van Doorn
    Omaha, Ne.
    1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
    1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
    1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD


    • #3
      If you have ANYTHING left of your originals (even with rust, holes, etc.) you can use that as a mold and lay up some fiberglass for strength. Use lots of cloth, with some additional metal for strength and bolting if you need it. I did this once for a Ch*** Corvair conv. with rusted floor. It isn't original, but it keeps you from doing a Fred Flintstone stop.

      Las Vegas, NV
      '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434


      • #4
        Dan, the question that comes to my mind is whether or not you're intimating that your flat areas are good while the "hump" is shot? This would be really odd as these cars go. Usually, the hump is the last surviving portion of the original floorboards. Maybe someone "modified" your's to install a shifter or maybe facilitate engine removal??? Do tell.[:I]
        I just happen to be cutting up this 63 Wagonaire and I'd be happy to dice the hump out of it, but I'm not sure how well it would graft onto the floor of a Hawk.

        Miscreant adrift in
        the BerStuda Triangle

        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
        1960 Larkvertible V8
        1958 Provincial wagon
        1953 Commander coupe

        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.


        • #5
          The floorpans are new. The question was a general question more than anything else. I ordered a 4 post lift & when it comes in, I'll be able to tell more when I get it up off the ground. I may not have a significant problem at all.

          In the mean time, my flightomatic auto trans is problematic. It slips on the upshift in both gears. It does not slip after it gets into gear. Also, when going from neutral to D, it hesitates and then drops in gear pretty "hard". Shifting from reverse to Low seems normal. The previous owner says it was just rebuilt. The shop manual says this could be a control valve issue or a band needing adjustment (it has plenty fluid). A linkage problem is also suspect. Once again, this will be easier to deal with when I get it on the lift.

          I love driving this car! Drove it to Eaton Ohio and got the new title & tags. It goes straight down the road as straight as an arrow.
          This flathead 6 is no racing engine but it has a bit more power than I was expecting given the horsepower of 101. I'm still considering a stude v8. Alot will depend on what the factory build sheet says. If by chance this 6 cyl engine is the original, it will be harder to take out. By the way--does going to the electronic distributor help the running of the engine? Especially smooth idle?

          Regards----Dan Ward


          • #6
            I'm running a Pertonix unit in my 60 Lark flatlhead six. I was really surprised how it smoothed out the engine. I'd been unable to see the timing mark before I put it in, now it's rock steady.

            Tom Bredehoft
            '53 Commander Coupe
            '60 Lark VI
            '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
            All three Indiana built OD cars


            • #7
              Thanks Tom---I'll check out the Pertonix unit! Dan Ward