64 Lark stalling in drive

[54-61-62]

Well, I got my old 64 Lark six together and have drove it 250 miles since it rolled out of the shop.

I rebuilt the carburator and had to correct many problems and parts left out from a former-former owner's repairs.

It starts, runs, and drives great. My problem is that when I set the idle around 550 rpm in park, it constantly wants to stall out on me in drive when stoped at a light (in drive) or etc. I adjust it so the idle is okay in drive and its way to fast in park and of course clunks when engaging into reverse or drive. I have not been able to reach a happy medium.

Is there a way to achieve, so when I shift it into drive it slightly opens the carb up? Any other thoughts? I'm getting tired of driving an auto tranny car with two feet!

thanks
Kent

[Roscomacaw]

Kent, are you sure you've got the idle mixture set right?

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle


1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

[LARK59]

Kent
first I would check for a vacuum leak, next to point dwell or timing
then readjust, usually issues like this are so simple we tend to overthink them

Jerry

59 Lark VI Hardtop
63 Lark Custom 2D R1
57 Transtar 1 ton
64 wagon
57 Silver Hawk {soon}future Bonneville car 200 mph

[bige]

advance the timing and reset the idle, then check timing again. you may be gettin partial centrifugal advance in neutral and when in drive the idle drops far enough to cause the centrifugal to retard the car.
Also, 550 in park sounds awful low! 550 in drive maybe, but 550 in park puts you under 500 in drive. a little clunk going into drive or reverse is not totally unusual. or...is there a weak u joint or loose rear driveshaft flange?
ErnieR

[gibbsr1]

If nothing else works I would check your valve lash clearances. If they are too tight it can mess with you idle.

Dan

[casey]

Speaking of clunk- my rebuilt FOM(which I have mentioned in previous posts) does the clunk thing soemtimes going into drive and reverse. Are there any further 'break-in' type adjustments I can do with the tranny? My timing, idle and mixture are all good.

[StudeRich]

There is one thing you could do if you really did exhaust these other fixes you mentioned. You may not have the time, equipment or patience for this, but it is still the very best way to set up a rebuilt tranny.
Also replace or carefully check the rear engine mounts & left side 1/2" spacer, then you....
Get, if you don't have a Shop manual and do the throttle pressure adjustment procedure outlined there. This involves first setting the throttle adjustment rod at the bellcrank stop to the correct clearance, then using an oil press. gauge (100 or more PSI). screwed into the 1/8" pipe plug hole at the very front of the case on driver's side. Then adjusting for 80 PSI in Drive at the designated RPM.

UPdate:
Kent:OPPS, I just noticed you have a "6"!! You will have to follow the book on that I can't tell anything about doing one of those, as I have not done it, out of the 40 or more '50's & '60's Studes. I own NONE are "6" Automatic! Sorry. Casey this could work for you! [:0]




StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[casey]

StudeRich: oh yes, I have done the throttle pressure adjustment procedure. I did it after I put in the first gear start valve body. But as I remember it my manual said either 90 or 95 psi. Are you sure it's 80? Also, when you do this adjustment with the car in Drive do you let the wheels spin or do you lock them with the emergency brake? It seems to me the manual said to lock them.

[StudeRich]

Casey; well according to the 1956 book we are both wrong! I like the earlier book because it is more complete, it's great unless something changed later. It really doesn't matter anyway, I was just trying to give a rough overview of what is required and it's understood you need the correct book!

I know myself and most of us have '60-'64 or so models and I'll check a newer one to see if it changed but, '56 says: 80-85 P.S.I. at 1000 RPM in "D" for pressure regulation test it does say to have engine warm, choke off, both parking and service brakes set and for the Idle press. check: 50-80 P.S.I. in D,L & R Both tests are to be done after the Carb. to throttle bellcrank linkage is adjusted and idle set at 550.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[54-61-62]

Yes, I do have a shop manual.

I guess I'll learn how to do it.

Kent

[studeclunker]

I know the feeling, Kent. I've had similar problems with mine, though they're V8s. In my case, it's just the lousy carbs I have. Good luck with yours. I can empathise with this kind of frustration. I actually prefer an automatic. This kind of problem is why I bought Bess. She's a manual.


Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

[54-61-62]

Update:

I adjusted the throttle pressure as outlined in the manual.

Dumb thing still does it, do matter how the idle circut is adjusted on the carb. I guess I'm back to Carburator issues which isn't all that suprising given what the former-former owner did to it.

Anyone have at least a core Carter RBS they want to part with? Is there any modern replacement carb that will work?

Kent

[studeclunker]

I've heard mention of a two-stage carb that works very well with the Stude six. I think Jeff Rice might know about it. There's some kind of adaptor that's needed to fit it on your manifold. Since I didn't have any sixes and it wasn't compatible with my eights, I didn't pursue it any further.



Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?