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Avanti clutch adjustment help needed

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  • Avanti clutch adjustment help needed

    OK, finally getting around to adjusting the clutch on the Avanti before leaving
    to a car show in the next hour or so ...

    I adjusted the return spring length to 10 inches as listed in the shop manual.

    Second step I dont understand fully :

    "Adjust the clutch pedal-to-bellcrank rod to give 1/2" clearance between the top end of the bellcrank, and the body flange of the front side of the firewall."

    Body flange? I just see a hole where the rod comes through, which is just
    fiberglass, no "flange" that I can see. Do they just mean the fiberglass? It
    looks to be a hair over 1 inch now, and it doesnt look like there is enough
    thread to shorten the rod to give only 1/2 inch.

    The last step is to make the pedal travel adjustment. What IS "pedal free
    travel" exactly? IS that the amount the pedal move prior to the throwout
    bearing touching the clutch disc? I assume thats the case.

    I am doing this because the clutch engages just about an inch off the floor
    and its a little unnerving. I think the adjustment got messed up when I put
    spacers under the rear engine mount to get the engine off the firewall.

    Tom
    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

  • #2
    Hi Tom, assuming you are still tweaking the linkage adjustments, and if you are working by yourself, disconnect the return spring so you can determine
    your free travel from underneath the car. 1" to 1 1/2" should be plenty of free travel and SHOULD bring your point of engagement closer to the middle
    of your clutch pedal travel.

    Comment


    • #3
      Yah .. I didnt get to adjusting the linkage yesterday, ran out of time so
      I drove it as-is. I still dont know what the "body flange" is. I got under
      the car to look at the linkage and its above a crossmember and on the
      inside of the frame. any hints on how to get to it? Looks like it may be
      easier to remove it from the car to adjust, but that's crazy. Ideas?

      Tom
      '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
      Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
      http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
      I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

      Comment


      • #4
        OK, so I went out and removed the adjusting rod, which after removing
        the cotter pin through the L shaped end, just fell out onto the ground.
        Thats when I see that there is a nut missing off the end of the adjusting
        rod. It only has a nut that pushes on the clutch arm, but not the one
        that pulls it back - lovely. It looks as tho to get the clutch pedal off the
        floor, I need to lengthen the rod by about 1/2 to an inch to put a nut on
        it like the shop manual shows. Whats going on here?? The L shaped
        end is worn on the area that goes into the bell crank, but not enough
        to cause this issue. Is there a way it might have been assembled wrong
        by the trans shop when they did the clutch for me back in 1995? When
        I pulled the trans, I saw they didnt attached the springs to the arm holes
        on the throw out bearing. (as seen in my TKO thread).

        Tom
        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

        Comment


        • #5
          Lots of readers, not a lot of input so far ...

          I took the assembly out of the car, except the bellcrank. Looks like I need
          some pieces from what I can tell. Anyone do any cool upgrades in this
          area while I've got it apart? The pivot axis shell on the support bracket
          has the hole broken out and allows the operating shaft to move around.
          The operating rod has a worn L shaped end, and the swivel is severely
          worn. I may need to remove the bellcrank and drill the hole out to install
          a bushing, or has anyone used a nylon insert?





          Tom
          '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
          Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
          I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi Tom, do you have the chassis and body parts catalog? You need plate 02-1, which shows the entire clutch linkage. Looks like you are missing some parts, and I can't id the small parts you show in
            your pics. There are 2 bushings that support the bellcrank, and you may need them both.

            Comment


            • #7
              I have the Avanti shop manual, and it looks like I have all the parts, they're
              just all very worn, and that one with the 3/4 nut on it is a broken piece. I
              think its supposed to have a keyed hole, but its all blown out. I could remove
              the boot and cut the top off, weld in a new top with a keyed hole. But I do
              need to varify that.

              Tom
              '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
              Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
              I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

              Comment


              • #8
                I was cleaning parts tonight and found that the piece of metal my magnet picked
                up in the oil goo on top of the frame contained the piece that broke from the cap
                on the support bracket! Its the whole missing piece. The luck.



                The pieces in my picture are items 29, 36, 22 and 26. The severely worn piece
                is item 26. 36 looks to be usable, and 29 might be repairable.

                Tom
                '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'm one of the many with no idea but looking in hoping to learn
                  Proud NON-CASO

                  I do not prize the word "cheap." It is not a badge of honor...it is a symbol of despair. ~ William McKinley

                  If it is decreed that I should go down, then let me go down linked with the truth - let me die in the advocacy of what is just and right.- Lincoln

                  GOD BLESS AMERICA

                  Ephesians 6:10-17
                  Romans 15:13
                  Deuteronomy 31:6
                  Proverbs 28:1

                  Illegitimi non carborundum

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    On one of the Avantis that we did, we used a part (27,28,29 &30) from another Stude application, by removing the rivets to separate and discard part 30 and ground the radius of part 29. It worked perfectly. Check with SI or other vendors for a part with similar spring steel dimensions. I can't recall the application of what we used, but I still have the piece #30, if it's appearance would help identify the application.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Part 30 is still on the car, that is supposed to be rivoted to the assembly?
                      On my Avanti it had two small bolts ....

                      Chatting to an engineer friend of mine, welding looks like a poor solution
                      and a short term fix at that. It will be weaker after, regardless, and the
                      part was too weak to begin with. I need a replacement as a work on a new
                      designed to replace the old stamped cap. I have a prototype, but getting
                      it made will take time.

                      Anyone have the support bracket assembly for a Lark/Avanti?

                      Tom
                      '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                      Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                      http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                      I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        On checking the bracket (#30), I discovered that I had cut off a piece of the 1/4" thick bracket for something, but what is left indicates it was a 206-19B type as illustrated in the '59-64 parts book and may have been a #535330 part which I think is still available. I also checked my used parts box and was able to compare an Avanti one with curved side and another one less the bracket that has the square sides. The square one is 1/4" longer. I don't remember if the one we used on that other Avanti was also 1/4" longer, but I doubt that would matter much as there should be enough adjustment to compensate. The ball stud and boot seem common to all the various styles of brackets or mounts.
                        Just read your post. The Avanti unit is mounted with 2 bolts, the others are riveted to a bracket that is not part of the frame.
                        Last edited by WCP; 07-13-2010, 02:29 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If you have issue 124 of the Avanti Magazine there is an article by Jim Zimmerman.

                          Replacing your Avanti's clutch system - the better way.
                          Bob Langer
                          Glenshaw,PA

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Thanks all. I'll see if I have that issue of Avanti magazine. No sense in reinventing
                            the wheel if someone already fixed the flaws.

                            Tom
                            '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                            Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                            http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                            I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yours did last 47 years. I wouldn't call that design "flawed". I suspect that the flexing of the ball stud that contributed to the shell failure was probably due to improper ball stud adjustment and lubrication or an extremely "heavy" clutch pressure plate or both.

                              Comment

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