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Lark won't light

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  • Lark won't light

    Put a battery in the Lark; don't have keys, so I ran a jumper to the + side of the coil, poured some gas in the carb, jumped across the solenoid, and--- nothing! Starter turns it over just fine, but no hint of firing... didn't check the points very closely yet, or check for spark; called it a night...

    Questions:

    1. What is the gap for the points?
    2. The wires were disconnected from the voltage regulator; anyone know how they connect (what color where?)
    3. Would the VR being disconnected prevent spark?

    Thanks for your help!!

    Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
    Parish, central NY 13131
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1


  • #2
    I've been studying wiring diagrams a lot lately [B)]

    Check out this link, it's better than the manual:

    https://www.studebakerparts.com/stud...ark-6-wire.jpg

    Looks like black goes to the "B" terminal, white with black trace to the "F" terminal, and both white and black with white trace go to the "A" terminal. Hope that helps - good luck!


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

    Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

    Comment


    • #3
      Still trying to get it to start... no spark [}]

      I decided to get all new tune-up stuff- cap, rotor, wires, points, condenser, coil...

      I haven't gotten a manual for this one yet; can anyone share the gap setting for the points?

      Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
      Parish, central NY 13131
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

      Comment


      • #4
        quote:Originally posted by bams50

        I haven't gotten a manual for this one yet; can anyone share the gap setting for the points?
        What year and which engine?



        Dick Steinkamp
        Bellingham, WA

        Comment


        • #5
          Put a set of points in my '59 truck today. (170 c.i. flat head 6) The gap was .020. Dwell (sp.) was 38-40, I believe.


          Comment


          • #6
            OOPS-

            1960 flat 6..

            Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
            Parish, central NY 13131
            http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

            Comment


            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by bams50

              1960 flat 6..
              Matt had it... .020 and 38-40 degrees.

              plug gap is .030

              firing order 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4

              valve clearance .018 cold




              Dick Steinkamp
              Bellingham, WA

              Comment


              • #8
                Before just throwing a bunch of parts at it, with the cap off the points, and your jumper in place, twiddle the points with a little piece of wood or some such thing that's non-conductive. If there's no sparks between the points (assuming they're closed - that's to say "off the cam" of the distributor shaft), take an emery board or a piece of fine sandpaper and run it between them. This followed by a piece of cardboard or cloth or something (this only to remove and abrasive that the sandpaper or file might have left behind) and try for sparks again. The points can develop a oxidation glaze that can effectively keep them from passing current EVEN WHEN they come into good contact with each other.
                Be a shame to throw $30 bucks worth of parts at it (or more - depending on how much you'd replace)when a bit of sandpaper would have had it running!

                Forgot to mention! With that cap off, spin the engine a bit and watch the points. Heck, I've had them come to me where the points were so grossly mis-adjusted that they didn't move with the engine turned. Maybe no sandpaper needed at all![:0]


                Miscreant at large.

                1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                1960 Larkvertible V8
                1958 Provincial wagon
                1953 Commander coupe
                1957 President 2-dr
                1955 President State
                1951 Champion Biz cpe
                1963 Daytona project FS
                No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks, Biggs; I did try cleaning the points before I did anything... gap looked pretty close... checked all connections, including inside the coil tower- all look good...

                  I like to replace old-looking tune-up parts, so I know what I have for sure... the parts store was able to get everything I wanted... but here's a dumb question:

                  Is this car 6 or 12 volts?!? [B)]

                  The car had a 12V batt. in it, so I assumed it was 12V.; my 57 is 12V, right? Yet the parts store's computer shows only a 6V coil...

                  I don't want to damage any of the new parts; so please help me with this...

                  Also, for future reference, can you determine if a car's 6V or 12V just by looking?

                  Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
                  Parish, central NY 13131
                  http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    All Studes were 12V starting in 1956.


                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks, mb; now, is a coil that says 6V compatible with a 12V system- and if not, aren't 12V coils somewhat universal?

                      Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
                      Parish, central NY 13131
                      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I believe the coils ARE the same, but that's why 12 volt systems use a resistor.

                        Miscreant at large.

                        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                        1960 Larkvertible V8
                        1958 Provincial wagon
                        1953 Commander coupe
                        1957 President 2-dr
                        1955 President State
                        1951 Champion Biz cpe
                        1963 Daytona project FS
                        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          So to clarify, I can just put this 6V coil on my car with no issues, or do I have to change/do something else?

                          Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
                          Parish, central NY 13131
                          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            This LArk should have a pink-colored wire going to the + side of the coil. That wire is a resistor in itself. If it's still in use, I'd say you'd be OK.

                            BTW, Robert - I can appreciate the "I know what I've got" approach to just tossing everything new onto the ignition system, but checking for some sparking at the points would've gone a long way to letting you have some idea of what you were up against.

                            Miscreant at large.

                            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                            1960 Larkvertible V8
                            1958 Provincial wagon
                            1953 Commander coupe
                            1957 President 2-dr
                            1955 President State
                            1951 Champion Biz cpe
                            1963 Daytona project FS
                            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hey Bob,
                              Found this here:

                              quote:"Connect a 12V test light to the ( - ) terminal of the ignition coil.
                              That's the wire that goes to the distributor. Ground the clip lead of
                              the test light. Have a friend turn the engine over with the starter.
                              The test light should flash repeatedly; once for every time the points
                              open.

                              If you get no illumination at all, then either the points are never
                              closing, or else you are not getting 12 volts to the ( + ) side of the
                              coil.

                              If the lamp remains illuminated all the time, then the points are not
                              closing properly."
                              and...

                              quoteoes your car have a ballast resistor? If it does then there is a separate wire going to the coil for the starting and one for the running. Try running a wire right from the pos side of the battery to the positive side of the coil. You will bypass any wiring problems before the distributor. If the car has spark then you have a wiring problem. Disconnect the wire to shut it off because you have bypassed the key.

                              Suggest taking added precautions by:
                              Disconnect the wire that's going there (pos side of coil) first, in case there's a ground problem in the ignition. Connect to coil first, then slap-touch the wire to the battery before trying to hard-connect.
                              Hope there's something helpful here!


                              [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

                              Clark in San Diego
                              '63 Lark Standard
                              http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

                              Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

                              Comment

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