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body/frame seperation help neded (60 Lark)

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  • body/frame seperation help neded (60 Lark)

    Hey everyone,

    while I'm waiting to get my manuals for the Lark, I'd still like to get some work done. That being said, the interior is completely removed at this point, except for the dash/pedals, and I wanted to know if anyone out there would be willing to give me a "reader's digest" version of seperating the body from the vehicle's frame. It's a 60. Thanks!

    Restoring my grandfather's '60 Lark, one rusted bolt at a time.

    Maple Lake, Minnesota
    '63 Lark Custom, 259 v8, auto, child seat

    "Your friendly neighborhood Studebaker evangelist"

  • #2
    Never did a Lark, but for openers.....Drain gas and water.
    Disconnect all electrical harnesses, fuel lines(at tank), fuel filler tube, shifter linkage, gas pedal attachment, brake and clutch pedals and the floor covers ,radiator hoses, heater hoses.
    You'll probably have to remove the steering column, or at least the steering wheel, so the body can slide over the shaft. Sometimes seat belts are bolted thru the frame, so those come out.
    There has to be around 20 body mount bolts...
    It's also probably easier to remove the hood, then the front fenders and radiator section ,as a unit. (4 person task) That leaves from the cowl back to fool with.
    You'll see what you forgot, when you try the first lift.

    Bob Johnstone
    64 GT Hawk (K7)
    1970 Avanti (R3)


    • #3
      Make sure the body/frame is solid enough that neither collapses w/o the other for support. My '53 was so rusted in both I fixed them in place before separation. You may need to weld in some bracing depending. On my car I had the entire body stripped to the bare shell. Front fenders off, doors off, trunk lid, interior, glass, etc. Lots less weight. I got a pair of 4x6 beams and 4 old oil drums from the farmers coop. I used a engine crane to lift each end of the body with chains and 1 helper and set it on the beams with the oil drums as pillars. The chassis then can roll out from under. With the body up in the air on the pillars, it was easy to finish fixing/painting the underside.

      Not sure about the '60 lark, but my '53 had some bolts that thread into the frame. Those were the worst pain to get out when really rusted. Some busted off or the threaded insert in the frame broke loose and started to spin, grrrr.

      Good luck

      Jeff in ND

      '53 Champion Hardtop

      Jeff in ND


      • #4
        It would be a good idea for you to buy a chassis parts manuel that
        covers that year. It will show all the mounting points and give you all the bolt sizes for new replacements. Body parts manuel would
        come in handy as well.

        53commander HDTP
        53 Champion HDTP
        61 Cursed Purple Hawk
        64 Champ long bed V8
        64 Champ long bed V8
        55/53 Studebaker President S/R
        53 Hudson Super Wasp Coupe


        • #5
          Jim I just purchased a cd-rom from studerich for my 53c body its great.It has chassis body and parts manual.And the great thing is i can just print out what i need and dont have to worry about getting a manual all dirty or greasy. The cost was less than 20 bux plus shipping. I got it in less than a week.Great service.

          David Baggett Mantachie,Ms.