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**Randy_G** · 04-01-2007, 05:58 PM

I use a 16 ft flat bed trailer with a wooden floor, I would prefer what I call a dove tailed trailer, it makes loading and unloading the car much easier. They also have trailers down here in Texas, I know no help but the middle of the trailer is open from front to back and it you need to get to the bottom of your car they can be a blessing and they are dove tailed as well. Someday when my ship comes in if it hasn't sunk already I will get one.

Here is a link to one that tilts! Interesting design for sure. This is just an idea getter I know you wont be getting one from Texas.

http://www.bigtextrailers.com/spec/10tl.html

Randy_G
South Bend or Bust 2007!
God I miss chrome on cars.
www.AutomotiveHistoryOnline.com

**Carl Purdy** · 04-01-2007, 06:31 PM

I had my trailor custom made. It is a 2 rail with open center easy to get too to tie evewrything down. Has dove tail on back it is 18 ft long bull dog hitch with 4 wheel brakes. I had priced other trailors. And having one made the way I wanted was $250 more. And has 16inch wheels. It's plenty strong and weights less than a full covered bottom.

7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2
As soon as you find a product you like they will stop making it.

**Guido** · 04-01-2007, 06:55 PM

Gary,

I have had a Hudson 16' car trailer for the past 20 years that I bought new. I used it a great deal before I bought my rollback. The biggest problem that you will find is that cars tend to drag in the middle as they are loaded, but as Randy points out, a dovetail solves this problem.

I also had a 28' dual tandem gooseneck trailer built but by the time I got it loaded it was more than my International truck wanted to pull. I would stick with a known brand and would suggest that you buy one locally in the event that you need any type of warranty work.

Gary

Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

**54-61-62** · 04-01-2007, 07:39 PM

Go with a closed center trailer - you will find the open center ones sometimes don't allow much space margin for the narrower-track Studes. Also having a solid deck comes in handy if you ever need to move other non-car objects.

Also, be sure to get a trailer with channel or box steel frame. If it has an angle iron frame, walk away.

Some like a dovetail, but I personally don't. Seems to eat up 2' of my usable bed length. Go with an 18' or 20' deck length. 16' is marginal, believe be I sure wish I had 2 extra feet on my 16' trailer when I hauled a 51 big ol Packard.

Kent

**Dick Steinkamp** · 04-01-2007, 08:21 PM

Here's mine...

I bought it last year after doing my usual "too much" research

.

PJ Trailers...

http://www.pjtrailers.com/

They are a pretty big outfit. My guess is that they have dealers on the East coast also.

16' with a 2' dovetail (18' overall). The dovetail is essential if you plan to load anything low...like my Starliner. Also, it has 5' ramps which are better than the 4' that most come with.

You'd want 4 wheel brakes even if your state didn't require them. Much safer. Also get a breakaway kit (applies trailer brakes if the trailer becomes disconnected from the tow vehicle). Also probably required by your state, but if not you'll want it anyway.

I considered an open deck, but how the heck can you haul a row crop tractor

. Also, an open deck can tend to get rocks kicked up through it and on to your undercarriage or the sides of the car.

Electric brakes are the only way to go. Much safer. With the new electronic controllers that sense the rate of deceleration, you can stop pretty quickly.

Channel frames are heavier, but well worth the trade off.

The removable aluminum fenders on this one are handy.

Minimum for a good one is about $2300 or so. (I think that's what I paid for this one)

This has been to Omaha and to California several times. Pulls straight and true. No problems.

**rayoung55** · 04-01-2007, 08:46 PM

I agree with what Dick says.

I don't know what maximum weight you are considering hauling, but there have been a few times that I wished I'd bought a trailer rated at 10,000 pounds rather than the 7,000 pound version.

What do others think about this?

Rob

**studeclunker** · 04-01-2007, 08:58 PM

Gary, between the weight of the necessary trailer, the pickup, and the Wagonaire, you'd kill your poor Expedition. Any trailer that could haul both your M5 and a Wagonaire, would be no lightweight. May I suggest you haul the M5 with the Expedition and your wife drive the Wagonaire? That way your trailer will fall right in your budget. A good dovetailed 10k capacity flatbed with the brakes you need shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure you get brakes on both axles and that brake-away.

Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

**54-61-62** · 04-01-2007, 09:00 PM

Taking Dicks lead of posting a pics, here is my trailer. I'll use it as an illustration of what NOT to get:

A) Fenders are too tall to open car door once on trailer. (yes, I've gotten good at crawling out windows or Larks)

B) Bad spot for the trailer lights and plate. Back up to a loading dock and "oops!"

C) 15" wheels. Go for 16" if at all possible. Much easier to find heavy load rating tires.

Worst part is I built this trailer myself several years ago. Perhaps someone can learn from my mistakes.

Kent

**Dick Steinkamp** · 04-01-2007, 09:17 PM

quote:Originally posted by rayoung55
I wished I'd bought a trailer rated at 10,000 pounds rather than the 7,000 pound version.

What do others think about this?

I don't have a tow vehicle rated to tow 10,000 so I didn't consider one.

The trailer capacity rating is all in the axles and tires. I have a buddy with a 10000# rated trailer that is a lot lighter duty than my 7000#.

A true 10000# trailer will probably be a lot more money than a 7000# and weigh substantially more. If your tow vehicle is rated to handle 7000# or less, a 10000# trailer will be cutting into your cargo capacity.

OTOH, IF I had a 1 ton dually diesel pick up, I'd be getting the higher capacity rated trailer. Bigger is better

**studeclunker** · 04-01-2007, 09:18 PM

Hey Kent, could'nt you take the left fender off the trailer and put it on hinges like U-Haul does? Here in CA they commonly put the license on the left fender with sheet metal screws.
You shouldn't beat yourself up though. For a home-made trailer, yours looks top notch!

If you can build such a nice trailer, you can fix the problems.

Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

**Kdancy** · 04-02-2007, 02:36 AM

http://www.texasrollback.net/how.html

Texas rollback --- been wanting one of these for a while!
No ramp loading.

53commander HDTP
53 Champion HDTP
61 Cursed Purple Hawk
64 Champ long bed V8

**DEEPNHOCK** · 04-02-2007, 03:56 AM

I'll stay away from brand name testimonials,
(because great trailer deals are usually regional in nature...)

But....

* Definitely go with electric brakes, and on both axles.
(STAY AWAY FROM HYDRAULIC SURGE BRAKES.)

* Get a new style digital controller like the Tekonsha Prodigy.
http://www.brakecontroller.com/prodigy1.htm

* If you can find a deal with a trailer that has torsion springs...go for it.
(They are a lot smoother, and ride nice. Less parts to wear out. Downside is they can cost more).

* Try and get one that has a deck to fender top height that is LESS than the ground to door bottom height of your truck.
(It is sooooo nice to be able to open the door to get in and out without scraping the fender, or being blocked by the fender).

* Get a beavertail (slightly bent downwards) trailer with self storing ramps that slide in from the back.
(Sliding side stored ramps out the side is a pita, especially if you are loading/unloading in a crowded area).

* Get a (solid) steel deck if you can get the price right on it.
Remember... Studebakers rust, and wood rots...eventually...
(Stay away from open centers, unless you want to crawl under there to work on your truck, or fall in there and hurt yourself ...which you will do sooner or later)...

* Pay the upcharge for LED lighting, if you can get it.

* Pay the upcharge for an uprated tongue jack.
(A bigger jack is easier to crank. But an old guy like you might want to splurge for an electric jack [}] ).

Just the musings of a trailer challenged Stude guy....
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by garyash

I want to haul my M5 truck (113" wheelbase, 2700 lbs) to South Bend in June - 900 miles each way from Massachusetts wouldn't bother the truck, but it would beat up me and my wife pretty well and there is no A/C. I've looked at used ones, but will probably buy a new one. I also want to be able to haul a Wagonaire (also 113" wheelbase, 3800 lbs) and who knows what else. I've looked at wood deck, steel deck, and open trailers. Brakes on both axles seems to be the new law.

Any brands to recommmend or avoid? Pros and cons of deck types? Electric brakes vs hitch-activated hydraulic? Can I get a decent one for under $2000? I'd love aluminum, but $4000 is not in the budget. Also, enclosed trailers are too expensive for the number of times I plan to use one. What's a good, affordable 16 ft steel, open car hauler? I'm in New England, so West Coast brands don't qualify. I can go south to MD or PA, west to NY, to get one. I have a Ford Expedition to haul with.

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

**Stude4x4** · 04-02-2007, 07:51 AM

Listen to what Jeff said. He pretty much hit all the important points. I cannot stress anymore to go with electric brakes. STAY AWAY FROM SURGE BRAKES. They're just an accident lookin for a place to happen. Decide on what the most weight is that you plan on haluing. Of course with an expedition it won't be as much as a 1 ton diesel. If you plan on buying a truck like that in the future(or even a 3/4 ton diesel) then get a 10k lb trailer. I build all my own stuff so that its exactly how I like it. If thats not possible for you then go with a place locally and keep all of these points in mind.

Jake

-Home of John Studebaker-
http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t95/stude4x4/
http://varozza4x4.com

**BShaw** · 04-02-2007, 09:18 AM

My Bro-in-law and I share a PJ trailer like Dick's except in the 20' size (18' + 2' dovetail) and love it. Bought it new 2 years ago for $2,000 + tax. Pretty much the same construction as most wood-decked trailers I looked at, such as 5" channel, brakes on both axles, mandated breakaway, ramp storage, etc. but it was the dealer's price and easily removable aluminum fenders that tipped the scale for me. We spray the deck with Thompson's wood preservative each fall and so far has kept it nice 'n healthy.

BShaw,Webmaster

60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion
Woodbury, Minnesota

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