I need some help and ideas quick please! '66 is dead...

[edpjr]

About 1K miles ago, the clutch started slipping in my '66 Commander 194 6 cyl 3 spd on the column. The car had 33K on it at the time and the parts appeared to be original. We got an exact replacement 9.5" clutch, press plate, long throw bearing and had the flywheel resurfaced. The new clutch seemed ok except, same as the original, it really didn't engage till the pedal was nearly all the way out. Now about 900 miles later, the new clutch started slipping like crazy. But when pulled, it looked fine. We took the two-step flywheel back and had 0.010" cut off the outer lip. Everything was re-installed, and it still slipped, although not quite as bad. So, we figured it must be a defective press plate. Pulled it again and took the parts to a local Clutch & Brake rebuilder. They disassembled the press plate and couldn't find anything wrong with it. And they said the clutch and flywheel look good. The mechanic says the linkage and fork look OK too. What could we be missing here??? It's maddening. The car's haunted. Thanks!

[gordr]

Are you sure you need a long T/O bearing? It's been a long, long time since I worked on a Chevybaker, but if I remember right, the clutch and bellhousing are both 100% Chevy.

[Mike Sal]

It sounds like all the hardware is ok; that leaves installation or adjustment. Did they put the clutch disc in backwards? Is the rear transmission mount squished out & preventing proper adjustment? Had the car ever been crashed before, putting the linkages in the wrong orientation?

Did the clutch "feel" right in free state (about an inch or so before the throw out bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers?

I have a 194 / 3 spd commander setting behind the shop, I'll take a look tomorrow at the clutch linkages.
Mike

[edpjr]

100% Chevy. Came with long TO bearing and that's what the replacement is...

[edpjr]

Never been wrecked. I'll check on the other stuff. Thanks!

It sounds like all the hardware is ok; that leaves installation or adjustment. Did they put the clutch disc in backwards? Is the rear transmission mount squished out & preventing proper adjustment? Had the car ever been crashed before, putting the linkages in the wrong orientation?

Did the clutch "feel" right in free state (about an inch or so before the throw out bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers?

I have a 194 / 3 spd commander setting behind the shop, I'll take a look tomorrow at the clutch linkages.
Mike

[wolfie]

If you dont find a problem with installation or adjustment I recall a post some time back about someone here that had to loosen and readjust the "fingers" on the pressure plate to stop clutch slippage. A quick search didnt turn up what I was looking for so I could see what engine / parts supplier was involved but I am sure its here. Good Luck, Steve

[Dwain G.]

What is the thickness of the clutch disc lining? The pressure plate is diaphragm type?

[Mike Sal]

After re-reading your original post, I think a couple of clues is that the original clutch failed at only 33k, and the pedal has always been too close to the top of the throw. No chance we're looking at a wrong linkage part being installed on the car or a bent throw out fork?
Mike Sal

[edpjr]

We need a pic of the linkage from a '65 or '66 for comparison. Can anyone help? Thanks!

After re-reading your original post, I think a couple of clues is that the original clutch failed at only 33k, and the pedal has always been too close to the top of the throw. No chance we're looking at a wrong linkage part being installed on the car or a bent throw out fork?
Mike Sal

[bams50]

Don't have an answer but am bumping the thread since it's a mystery to me, and am very interested in finding out what the solution will be...

[Mike Sal]

Not sure how good of a pic I can get, but I'll try to get the parts car commander jacked up enough where i can get the camera in at some different angles tonight.
Mike Sal

[edpjr]

That would sure be a blessing. Thanks!

Not sure how good of a pic I can get, but I'll try to get the parts car commander jacked up enough where i can get the camera in at some different angles tonight.
Mike Sal

[edpjr]

I asked that the fork be double-checked too. The Clutch rebuilder measured and miched everything; flywheel, pp, clutch, etc. and everything appears in order.

After re-reading your original post, I think a couple of clues is that the original clutch failed at only 33k, and the pedal has always been too close to the top of the throw. No chance we're looking at a wrong linkage part being installed on the car or a bent throw out fork?
Mike Sal

[Mike Sal]

Unfortunately, I had to make a run to town & then get some mowing done before I could play. I didn't have time to jack up the car to get some close up shots of the linkage, but I did have time right before it got too dark to look under the hood.

This car (93,000 miles) has a clutch pedal that "touches" about half way down (needs adjustment). Moving the pedal down until you can feel the T.O. bearing touch makes the lower arm of the bell crank (where the rod that goes to the fork attaches) move about 3/4 of an inch. How does yours compare?

I should be able to get it up in the air enough tomorrow evening to get some pic's.
Mike Sal

[edpjr]

Thanks. I talked with John Myer today and he gave me a list of items; z-bar, ball pivot, fork, etc. that might be the culprit.

Unfortunately, I had to make a run to town & then get some mowing done before I could play. I didn't have time to jack up the car to get some close up shots of the linkage, but I did have time right before it got too dark to look under the hood.

This car (93,000 miles) has a clutch pedal that "touches" about half way down (needs adjustment). Moving the pedal down until you can feel the T.O. bearing touch makes the lower arm of the bell crank (where the rod that goes to the fork attaches) move about 3/4 of an inch. How does yours compare?

I should be able to get it up in the air enough tomorrow evening to get some pic's.
Mike Sal