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Patch on the 60 Lark trans. hump

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  • Patch on the 60 Lark trans. hump

    What's it for? A patch on the forward part of the trans. hump near the firewall...

    Both my 60 Larks have it...

    What could it be?

    (Sorry for the dumb beginner's question [:I])

    Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
    Parish, central NY 13131

  • #2
    Let me take a guess or two, I think it could be there so you can grease the throw-out bearing? OR it could be there to get to the bell housing bolts. Experts?

    Randy Wakefield
    1955 President


    • #3
      Well, the parts book calls it a....

      Floor pan oil inspection hole cover

      Is this how the trans oil was checked?

      Tom - Valrico, FL

      1964 Studebaker Daytona

      Tom - Bradenton, FL

      1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
      1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD


      • #4
        The long skinny one in the very front is for bellhousing bolt access, although using it seems to be more likely an exercise in drilling out sheetmetal screws before you give up and pull the whole engine/transmission as a combo. If there's another one, it's for automatic transmission dipstick access.


        55 Commander Starlight
        55 Commander Starlight


        • #5
          Thanks all; there is a small one farther down that comes off easier that I assumed was for trans. fluid... the subject panel is screwed or riveted as well as sealed down... it would be a real job to remove it [xx(]

          Probably is for b/h bolt access...

          Years ago I used to buy Renault LeCars for knocking around... they had the lowest resale value of any car I've ever seen, which meant a broke-a## kid could drive a late-model car and pound it mercilessly for next to nothing [8D] Cheap on gas, plus the typical French soft, LOOONG-travel suspension- a blast to drive!!

          Anyway, the starter went on one of them; it was on the back of the transverse-mounted engine. The manual said to drop the transaxle to reach it [:0][B)] Took me about 15 minutes with an air chisel to cut a flap in the firewall from under the dash, swap the starter, bend the flap back, and slobber some duraglas back over it

          Thank you Molly the Lark for bringing back a fun memory [^]

          Anyone got a LeCar you wanna get rid of...?

          Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
          Parish, central NY 13131


          • #6
            The panel up near the firewall is for making it easier to reach the bell housing bolts. Or is it the upper bolts on the manual transmission? I forget now, because it's been 11 years since I removed the panel to do a clutch job on my '54. All I know for sure is that I was glad it was there, because it sure made that part of the job easier!

            Yes, mine had never been off before and it was smeared with some kind of body sealer, but it wasn't too hard to chisel through it enough to remove the screws.

            I like your story about the firewall cut. Years ago, my mechanic replaced a leaking freeze plug at the rear side of a Rambler 6 by cutting a hole in the firewall just like you describe. He didn't charge the customer much either. Another shop wanted to lift the engine out to do it, for $95.00. (That doesn't sound like much money now, but this was back when $95 was still worth $75!)