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  • studebakerjeff
    replied
    Well I might as well put my two cents in. I had my 50 studebaker engine rebuilt. It never ran right from the get go.I did everthing. Then I disconnected the vacuum advance. I don't know if your car has this type of dist but worked for me.Found out there is a ajustment by adding spacers to the spring that puts tenison on advance. Mine was advancing to much. adjusted, Runs great now.

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    A plugged muffler would have weak flow at the tailpipe, and you fix it by replacing it.

    StudeRich
    Studebakers Northwest
    Ferndale, WA

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  • drnittler
    replied
    Howe do you unstop a muffler and how do you tell?

    David G. Nittler

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    have had same thing with a holden car ... the auto needed fixing also another time the muffler was blocked and that made the car sluggish in power too

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  • studeclunker
    replied
    David, when you floor the car, does it downshift? If it doesn't, Ernie is right, your linkage is out of adjustment. The six with an automatic is hobbled as it is. When the linkage is improperly adjusted, it's positively moribund.


    Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
    Lotsa Larks!
    K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
    Ron Smith
    Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

    Leave a comment:


  • drnittler
    replied
    Started to lack power, no stumbles or hesitating. Just when I give it gas it lacks power. Starts fast. Heat riser is stuck open; it never made much difference before here in TX, just tok a little time to warm up. It is am automatic.

    David G. Nittler

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  • bige
    replied
    Longshot...if it's an automatic maybe the linkage that regulates the downshift and upshift timing is out of adjustment. The car may be going into third gear too quickly and not downshifting when you push it.

    ErnieR

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  • 1961HAWK
    replied
    is the performance sluggish meaning lacking power.
    does it ever stumble or hesitate?
    how does it start?

    Erin Hays
    1961 Hawk
    1962 Lark
    1963 Wagonaire

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  • 53k
    replied
    You may want to advance the timing at least several degrees beyond the factory recommendation. Admittedly it is a different engine, but my '64 Wagonaire was very sluggish after the engine was rebuilt. I advance the timing maybe 10 degrees past the recommended setting and it improved a lot and still didn't ping.


    [img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson
    '53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
    '64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
    '64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
    Museum R-4 engine

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  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    Yeah, but that sorta "timing change" would be almost negligible in it's impact on performance.
    nit, maybe the exhaust manifold heat riser valve is stuck (assuming you still have one), but if it DID start all of a sudden, it may well BE that an internal part of the muffler has come loose and wedged itself (inside the muffler) to where it's restricting exhaust flow. Man, that would have a BIG impact on power while letting things seem normal at idle or even - to a degree - while being subjected to some revving when not actually working to move the car.[}]

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle


    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe

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  • N8N
    replied
    If you are still running points, yes, timing will change slightly as the rubbing block wears (and so will dwell, for that matter.)

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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  • drnittler
    replied
    I checked the plugs. This stuff just started. The rebuild was quite a while ago. Can timing change even though the distributer is tightly mounted?

    David G. Nittler

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  • studeclunker
    replied
    Now, now, now! Enough with the slams on the poor little beliegured Stude 170 OHV. Poor lil' thing has enough trouble doing it's job.[)]

    Have you checked your plugs? I had a '62 Champ with the same problem. Turned out to be fouled plugs. Five out of eight of them were coated with crud. Pull yours out and clean them thoroughly with carb cleaner. Or, replace them, they're not that expensive. There might be an improvement after that.

    From the shop manual on tune-ups:
    quote:Engine tune-up, one of the most important of the maintenance services, determines whether or not the car will perform with maximum economy and efficiency. It is therefore important that this service be performed on the engine every spring and fall...
    Note that they said every spring and fall. That's twice a year. A tune-up can be as simple as checking and cleaning the ignition parts or as complicated as replacing and resetting everything.


    Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
    Lotsa Larks!
    K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
    Ron Smith
    Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

    Leave a comment:


  • ddub
    replied
    Have you driven other Stude 6's? May just be typical performance.

    Don Wilson
    53 Commander Hardtop
    64 Champ 1/2 ton
    Centralia, WA

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  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    This is a 6? Not really known for "Stellar" performance.[}] Are you sure the throttle's opening ALL the way? Sometime's linkage problems (or even an ill-installed carb base gasket!) can inhibit the throttle from being able to open fully.[V]

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle


    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe

    Leave a comment:

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