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Using a Holley on stude v8

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  • Using a Holley on stude v8

    I am using a Holley on my 63 studebaker v8 covertible
    with powershift automatic.
    I have rebuilt the one I am trying to adjust presently.
    It idles great (a bit fast), runs great, accelerates great.

    The only problem I have is that I can't seem to adjust the idle below 1000 - 1200 rpm. I would like it to idle at 800.

    I have adjusted both idle adjustment screws to the highest rpm and back them down just a bit.
    The engine runs great.
    The carb list number is 6947, 600cfm.
    Anyone has any experience with these?
    Please do not suggest other carbs, this is the one I will use.

    Thanks.
    Paul

  • #2
    "I have adjusted both idle adjustment screws to the highest rpm and back them down just a bit."

    Do you mean MIXTURE screws??? If so, what about THE idle adjustment screw? That's "screw" as in one screw. Usually integral with the accelerator linkage.[:I]

    Miscreant at large.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President 2-dr
    1955 President State
    1951 Champion Biz cpe
    1963 Daytona project FS
    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

    Comment


    • #3
      THE idle adjustment screw is adjusted out so far,
      that it is not even touching the cam.
      Thanks

      Comment


      • #4
        Holley carbs are good for two things, drag racing and holding the garage door open.


        Studebaker On The Net
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        Arnold Md.
        64 Daytona HT
        63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
        63 GT Hawk
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        63 Avanti R2/4 speed
        62 Lark 2 door
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        52 Starliner
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        JDP Maryland

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        • #5
          Thanks for the advice JDP.

          Comment


          • #6
            It's good advice.
            Don't treat it lightly.
            Jeff[8D]



            quote:Originally posted by pszikszai

            Thanks for the advice JDP.


            DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
            Ocala, FL.[u](For one more month!)</u>
            '37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
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            http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

            HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

            Jeff


            Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



            Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

            Comment


            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by pszikszai

              THE idle adjustment screw is adjusted out so far,
              that it is not even touching the cam.
              Thanks
              While I tend to agree with JDP about Holleys (other than to add they are good for burning cars to the ground[}] ), I'd suggest you check for a vacuum leakage path. Brake booster line? PCV line? Are you sure that the throttle plates do completely shut the bores? Could the secondary throttle plates be open a tad?

              You should be able to get the airflow on any carb shut down tight enough to stall out the engine.

              Just a thought; any interference between the throttle linkage and the top of the intake manifold? Has the throttle bellcrank hit its stop before the carb throttle plates have fully closed?

              No reason you shouldn't be able to make that carb work, although 600 CFM is a touch big for stock Stude V8, IMHO.

              Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
              Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

              Comment


              • #8
                Holleys are a very good carburetor, but when left in storage for extended periods on a collector car, the soft parts may dry out, deteriorate, and then you'll have fuel leakeage, particularly from the fuel pump diaphram. Another ailment that they have is from careless installations on hot rods whereby the choke is inoperable or some other tuning problem exists(such a vacuum leak), and the engine "backfires" and damages the power valve diaphram, which results in rich mixture. Hence, many people adjudge them as unsuitable. In your situation, though-- I am wondering what sort of adaptor you are using to acomplish your installation onto a Stude manifold? If I were you, I would look for a problem with a vacuum leak right in that vicinity. The Holley is physically a larger carburetor than either of the Carters we see on them, requiring an adaptor and several gaskets. Are you reusing old base gaskets? You can get by with it if they are fairly fresh, but not if they are a few years old. Does the adaptor COMPLETELY cover the ported areas on the carb base plate, and seal off the carburetor base on the manifold? If not, this could cause a vacuum leak and a fast idle situation.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Just a thought....disconnect the throttle linkage from the carb completely...then see if it still idles fast...if so, your linkage is too short..adjust as nessessary. If you can't hear the vacuum leak, there are several ways to find it,,, spraying WD40, carb. spray cleaner, brake cleaner, they're all messy...get out your propane torch, turn it on a small amount(un-lit, of course!), and aim it at or around the base of the carb. or any other area you suspect may be leaking. If it has a leak, the motor will speed up the second the propane finds the leak. Hope this helps.
                  Dan

                  Road Racers turn left AND right.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Dan, that was my first thought after he said the idle screw was all the way off. Linkage too short OR hindered in some way. And not necessarily at the link that hooks to the carb either. The bellcrank or even the throttle pressure linkage to the tranny could have a problem.
                    Of course, a vacuum leak would be next.

                    pszikszai, twiddling those mixture screws will do little and not be set right until this thing either able to have it's throttle butterflies go completely shut or the possible vac leak addressed.[:I]

                    Miscreant at large.

                    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                    1960 Larkvertible V8
                    1958 Provincial wagon
                    1953 Commander coupe
                    1957 President 2-dr
                    1955 President State
                    1951 Champion Biz cpe
                    1963 Daytona project FS
                    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Bob,
                      IMHO....Just as JP said, Hollys are great for racing, just WAY too tempermental for street use. The good ole' AFB is hard to beat...it's still on the hot rod with the only change having to raise the float level for them sharp turns at WFO you know what I mean...steering with your right foot. I'm trying to get one of my pictures loaded on my signature block if I can figure it out. Later
                      Dan Miller

                      Road Racers turn left AND right.

                      Comment


                      • #12

                        Someone mentioned problems with butterfly closing.
                        I made me look at the fast idle screw.
                        It needed two turns out and this allowed the throtle plate
                        to fully close now it works like a charm.
                        Thanks for all sugestions.
                        Paul

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