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R2 heads

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  • R2 heads

    I have a spare set of R2 heads for my [A] valves-springs-rocker arms
    & push rods.Is it best,to have these done with R3 valves & other
    mods.necessary. Or would I be better off buying a set thats already
    built? I am performance oriented in this regard.What would be the
    cost involved in either case? How do I get best bang?

    Thanks, Johnr2





  • #2
    Many people are doing this.

    To "just" install larger valves is not good spending of your money. To gain the most from the large valve modification...at "least" a good pocket porting with some carefull chamber work to remove all the walls.

    Depending on who does the work in no special order -
    1. Guide work, new or fix old. Shorten intake guide.
    2. Surface deck.
    3. Pocket port (minimum) both intake and exhaust.
    4. Chamber work.
    5. Mag for cracks.
    6. Open seats for bigger valves.
    7. New valves, hone stem, grind seat, two angles on intake.
    8. Grind seats in heads, three angles.
    9. Check new springs, shim as required.
    10. New stem seals.
    11. Clean all parts.

    About $1050.00, your heads.

    Mike

    Comment


    • #3
      Phil at Fairborn Studebaker has heads with R3 valves and mild porting for $700. Unless you can do the work yourself, his is the most convenient deal.

      Mike's deal above has a lot of Stude experience in it. He will do you right.

      To really get really racy, figure a minimum of $1k additional for a professionally ported set and a minimum of $2k for best science.

      Bit of a commercial here for those on a budget:
      the shop I use will take your heads, valves, springs, guides and seals you furnish and install and clearance hard seats, guides, seals, pocket port, surface all three sides for $300. They will look like jewelry when you get them back. Naturally, shipping is at cost. E-mail me off-line if you are interested. Jack Vines, PackardV8@comcast.net


      PackardV8
      PackardV8

      Comment


      • #4
        quote:Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten

        Many people are doing this.

        To "just" install larger valves is not good spending of your money. To gain the most from the large valve modification...at "least" a good pocket porting with some carefull chamber work to remove all the walls.

        Depending on who does the work in no special order -
        1. Guide work, new or fix old. Shorten intake guide.
        2. Surface deck.
        3. Pocket port (minimum) both intake and exhaust.
        4. Chamber work.
        5. Mag for cracks.
        6. Open seats for bigger valves.
        7. New valves, hone stem, grind seat, two angles on intake.
        8. Grind seats in heads, three angles.
        9. Check new springs, shim as required.
        10. New stem seals.
        11. Clean all parts.

        About $1050.00, your heads.

        Mike

        Comment


        • #5
          thanks mike, i will check the local shops,
          see what they do.

          Comment


          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by PackardV8

            Phil at Fairborn Studebaker has heads with R3 valves and mild porting for $700. Unless you can do the work yourself, his is the most convenient deal.

            Mike's deal above has a lot of Stude experience in it. He will do you right.

            To really get really racy, figure a minimum of $1k additional for a professionally ported set and a minimum of $2k for best science.

            Bit of a commercial here for those on a budget:
            the shop I use will take your heads, valves, springs, guides and seals you furnish and install and clearance hard seats, guides, seals, pocket port, surface all three sides for $300. They will look like jewelry when you get them back. Naturally, shipping is at cost. E-mail me off-line if you are interested. Jack Vines, PackardV8@comcast.net

            thanks jack.no way i can do the head job,but would like to
            know more about the one/or 2k option. johnr2
            PackardV8

            Comment


            • #7
              Your car, your project. From those who have been there, the hassle of trying to get across to local shops what you want, trying to round up the parts, may be more than it will cost to go to those who know how to do it right the first time. Just be prepared for some flat refusals and some high estimates.

              FWIW, I have to work closely and sweet-talk my head guy to get him to continue to do my Studebaker and Packard work. He grouses about having to order parts from Fairborn, having change all his setups, just to do one pair. "I have UPS drop off a box of SBC parts once a week and everything is the same. I get twice the production rate because I don't have to change anything."

              thnx, jv.



              PackardV8
              PackardV8

              Comment


              • #8
                Packard...agreed.

                I'm lucky, the shop I use likes doing oddball stuff. He does everything from Super Stock (NHRA) engines to blown hemi's...to...Packards.
                He'll do work on just about anything with a crank shaft. In the 25+ years I've known him...I've only found one mistake. And yes I do check everything I have tools to check.

                It's great to have a shop that's not afraid of new OR "old" stuff!
                And yea...he's working on my 299 right now, and he has called about prices. "I can get "xxx" for this money, how much can you get it for?".

                Mike

                Comment


                • #9
                  hey guys,i have been talking to several machine shops
                  in my area regarding the r2 heads.prices vary from $600-$1600
                  for the work.i see where lional stone has r3 alum heads for $2200
                  that dyno@ 375 hp.are these heads that much better than fairborn's
                  for $700? thanks johnr2

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    There are extended valves for NASCAR that are 1/4 inch longer then the
                    stock Chevy valves, and dont require cutting the stands or guides.

                    They were 2.02 turned down to 1.92 or 1.94 from Ferrea.

                    http://www.ferrea.com/

                    Tom
                    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      thanks tom,however your way over my head
                      on that one. johnr2

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        John,

                        The best thing you can do, is ask questions, read responses, and then
                        do LOTS of RESEARCH! Dont go by any one persons direction. Two engines
                        built identically will give different results. Read Total Performance
                        back issues and the books. Turn your brain into a sponge. The MORE
                        you know, the better decision you can make, and the happier you will
                        be with the end product.

                        Tom
                        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          thanks for the excellent advice Tom.I'm waiting on info
                          from fairborns on a total engine rebuild & head work.
                          I was impressed with the steering wheel& rims on an Avanti
                          that I recently saw. Is this your's? If not,do you know who doe's?
                          thanks johnr2

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            quote:Originally posted by imitidayI was impressed with the steering wheel& rims on an Avanti that I recently saw. Is this your's?
                            If you mean this one, yes its mine .. or you might mean Karls?







                            Tom
                            '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                            Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                            http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                            I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The aluminum heads will require another $1000 or so for machine work to fit. Not to knock the repro alumium stuff, but none of it is a "bolt on". Let Nimish build you a set of his heads that will out flow the R3 jobs.


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