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I could use some help with this

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  • #16
    quote:Originally posted by showbizkid

    Sounds like time for a carb rebuild for sure - that's easy. But the bucking... that sure sounds like a partially clogged exhaust system to me. I've experienced that symptom many time with various cars, and it's always turned out to be clogged mufflers (or catalytics, with newer vehicles).

    If it was me, I'd take the car to my friendly local muffler shop and ask them to inspect the system.


    Clark in San Diego
    Okie-dokie, a carb rebuild it will be. Hope that helps. Regarding the exhaust system, I have already had both turbo mufflers replaced due to clogging and collapsed baffles inside.

    My intuition tells me the "bucking" is electrical in nature, but so far I've been unable to locate the cause.

    Has anyone replaced that old WCFB carb with a newer style Edelbrock/Carter AFB, and if so, is it a difficult modification and worth the time, effort and money?

    Thanks to all for the helpful input so far. I'm gettin' there, "one piece at a time", heh.

    Karl


    1962 GT Hawk 4sp

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    • #17
      WCFB to AFB is not a bolt on, the bolt pattern on the carb baseplate is different. Jeff Rice is your man for AFB intakes, if he's back up and running yet.

      good luck

      nate

      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel
      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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      • #18
        an eldelbrock fits on the wcfb intake no big problems. it uses the inner bolt holes on the carb.you need a small spacer under the carb to get the linkage to clear. and will have to drill out the mount hole alittle where your linkage bolts on. i run one on my lark and used my wcfb intake until the hawk needed it. then had a two barrell intake modified for the lark.
        it is possible you have float issue. a pinhole in a brass float will gradually get worse over time letting the carb over fuel.
        so be cure to check your floats well when rebuilding.

        Erin Hays
        1961 Hawk
        1962 Lark
        1963 Wagonaire

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        • #19
          The bore spacing and size is different between the WCFB and the 600
          CFM Edelbrock carb. The linkage requires a spacer as mentioned. The
          bolt pattern is the same as mentioned. I think that the 500 cfm is
          similar to the WCFB, but I am not positive. To use the Edelbrock (or
          the Studebaker Carter AFB) on a WCFB manifold, you should have the 4
          holes bored out to improve flow. Or you can end up with some jetting
          issues and drivablity problems. One of the best upgrades I did to my
          60 Hawk was going to an AFB (from a junkyard Caddy), and than later
          to an Edelbrock AFB.

          Tom
          '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
          Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
          I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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          • #20
            http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/45638/

            here is a good site on setting idle mixture.
            if anybody wants it.

            Erin Hays
            1961 Hawk
            1962 Lark
            1963 Wagonaire

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            • #21
              Another source for the "bucking". This will probably appear in the glass fuel filter as a lack of fuel or a great deal of sediment. If there is any sediment in the tank, and it gets into the line, it will plug the line, thereby starving the car of fuel. This also happens if you run out of gas(dont ask how I know this ). The sloshing of the fuel will cause the car to buck and surge.
              With the former, its a simple matter of popping the line off of the tank. There should be a pinkie diameter stream of fuel coming out of the tank. If its only a trickle or none at all, the outlet is plugged. I solved this by sealing the fill hole and running compressed air, into the fill hole to push the sediment out of the tank. That and maybed using some pipe cleaners to clear the outlet. Haven't had any problems with this since then.


              1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
              1950 Studebaker 2R5 with 170 turbocharged
              [img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00003.jpg?t=1171152673[/img=left]
              [img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00009.jpg?t=1171153019[/img=right]
              [img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00002.jpg?t=1171153180[/img=left]
              [img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00005.jpg?t=1171153370[/img=right]
              1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
              1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
              1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
              1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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              • #22
                "I think its 800 rpm out of gear, and 650 rpm in gear for an auto?? Set your parking brake and block the wheels."


                I think you may be correct on this. Ted suggested that I do this with my OHV6 Lark and it seemed strange when I consulted the shop manual (shop manual is not clear with automatic equipped cars), but I have changed it in this fashion - setting the idle with it in drive and it has made a big difference. The OHV6 engines I have had have always had a bit of a lope at idle and under load but not moving which I think may have something to do with the intake manifold runner lengths.

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