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Power steering Control Valve

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  • Power steering Control Valve

    I have a 60 Hawk with power steering and it appears that the control valve is leaking, ok leaking is an under statment. The unit is full of fluid and offers no assistance when I turn the wheel. I have seen the one on Ebay but I can not bring myself to pay 350 buck for it. Has anyone ever rebuilt one of these? I read the shop manual and it does not give me any idea of how hard this might be. I think Stude intl. sells a kit.

    Also any Studebaker owners around Charlotte NC? I am always reading this forum for any info I can use. Thanks in advance for any help.

  • #2
    I did mine. I didn't have any prior experience and it wasn't too hard. Keep everything really clean, keep track of things as you take it apart and use both the parts book and the shop manual to see how it goes together. I'll help you out if I can.

    Tim K.
    '64 R2 GT Hawk
    Tim K.
    \'64 R2 GT Hawk

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    • #3
      Getting it out, cleaned up and back in is the difficult, nasty part. Once it is on the bench, the rebuild is a piece of cake. Hint: Before getting under there, take it to a car wash and blast all the grease off the control valve and anything close to it.

      PackardV8
      PackardV8

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      • #4
        The seal kit for the power steering control valve is available at Studebaker International and SASCO as well as other SDC vendors. You can replace the seals in the control valve while it is still on the car although it would be easier if it were removed, I did mine while on the car. It is not a big job. There were step by step intructions in the kit I used, but if you have a shop manual it also gives you the same info. If the the plunger is badly worn, the new seal kit may not stop the leaking, but you will need to get it apart to see. I have an extra power steering control valve (used) but it will need to be resealed before being installed. I would also recommend replacing the seal in the power steering assist Ram while you are at it, otherwise with the newly sealed control valve and the pressure being restored to the system you may create a new leak at the shaft seal of the Ram. Just my opinion. Good Luck.


        Studebaker Fever
        60 Lark
        51 Champion
        Phil
        Arnold, Missouri

        Studebaker Fever
        60 Lark
        56 Power Hawk
        Phil Hendrickson
        Arnold, Missouri

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        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by abndad
          Also any Studebaker owners around Charlotte NC? I am always reading this forum for any info I can use. Thanks in advance for any help.
          abndad,

          I live in Winston-Salem. There is a large cluster of Stude owners in the Winston, Greensboro, High Point area. There are also a bunch in the Mooresville/Charlotte area (Jack White, Harold Freeze, Perry Brown, etc).

          Are you a member of the North Carolina SDC? Large active club, info is here: http://www.ncsdc.com/

          Also, Ray F. at Ray-Lin Restoration does a lot of mechanical work, and I know has rebuilt these control valves, see his link on the NC SDC site.

          Paul

          Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html
          Paul
          Winston-Salem, NC
          Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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          • #6
            This is the exact issue I faced about eight years ago..everyone thinks that a simple re-seal will fix it .....well not so...what if something else is at fault....like the spool valve?.....or what if the houseing(sp) itself is worn? If this were a crank shaft the journals could be built up...but how does one build up the id of the housing?...oh I guess the spool could be built up but I have never heard of this being done...I was lucky...a friend had a spare NOS Avanti assy...which I purchased ...but SASCO also had some complete valves utilized on other Studies....the valve port size was a bit different .....you can obtain fittings so your hoses will work....I know they had these ..contact SASCO speak to Mike Spilski...

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            • #7
              Paul, thanks for the info. I am a member of the NC club. I know Jack, Henry and a few others but it seems that knowledge is not something they share. My Dad ,Richard Tucker is the president right now and the only reason he shares is because I go and raid his parts and scrap. [}] I will ask around at the August meet and see if anyone has a spare.

              I hope to take the Hawk to the Tri State meet and compete against my Dad in the "under construction" class. If it goes it will be on a trailer this year, not ready to risk it. I think it is a "Rare" Hawk. It came with a 289,ps,pb, a/c, dual floor heaters, twin traction, and it has a plate on the glove box with the fellows name for whom it was made. I will be the third owner. It will be a driver not a show car. I think you should enjoy them not stick'em under glass.

              Rodney
              60 Black Hawk
              "sometimes down"

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              • #8
                Phil, please drop me a note @ rtucker21@carolina.rr.com and let me know a price on the extra valve you have. Thanks.


                Rodney
                60 Black Hawk
                "sometimes down"

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                • #9
                  57 Fords and T-birds used the same control valve you might check them out too.

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                  • #10
                    I have rebuilt 4 or 5 of these, all of them on the car. I endorse the comments of GTtim, PackardV8, and 60Lark. It can be a dirty, messy job, but it is not difficult if you keep copies of the shop manual and parts book pages handy. Lay the removed parts out on clean newspaper, and put 'em back in the same order. You do not need to remove the Pitman arm to replace the seals that probably are the cause of the leak. Everything is well lubricated, so there's no rust to worry about. Jack the car up as high as you safely can, and make sure everything is clean, clean, clean.
                    Skip Lackie
                    Skip Lackie

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                    • #11
                      I have a 55 t-bird which would be the same as a 57 and here in Houston there is a rebuilding company called Adco Power Streering Products on Pinemont that can do your valve and Ram. They rebuilt mine after I paid some so called expert to rebuild it(via catalog mail)and they work great. Here is the number, 713-681-1446. Let me know if I can be of any help.

                      1956 Studebaker Pelham Wagon Houston, Texas
                      Remember, \"When all is said and done. More is always said then ever done.\"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hello, I am new to the discussion. My 62 Hawk control valve has leaked forever; that is the reason it has taken up nearly permanent residency in the garage. I must get it fixed so I can sell the car. I put in a new seal kit some time ago. Now it leaks more than before (especially when steering is at its limits), so it is smarter than I am. I tried to reinstall the kit the the same as the old one. I have strong reason to believe it was worked on before I got the car, and I know the previous owner wasn't that good a mechanic. I would replace the entire control valve if I could find one, just to end the problem!!!

                        I consulted the Stude repair and parts manuals and every other piece of literature I could find. None describe the correct orientation of the seals. Should the belled side face the inside of the spool or should they be facing out? Logically it would seem they should face the inside, where the hydraulic pressure is. Neither do the manuals describe the orientation of the spool valve.

                        I have Ford 1953 Service Booklet No. 6 which describes "Servicing Power Steering" and which is exactly the same system as my 62 Hawk power steering. It does not give the answers about seal and spool valve orientation I need. HELP!!! I am in Colorado.

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