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Auto trans. buzz in Park & Rev.

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  • Auto trans. buzz in Park & Rev.

    Good day all from central Minnesota! I recently purchased a 1964 Daytona hardtop with V8 & automatic transmission. When the selector is in Park or in the Reverse position, a loud buzzing noise comes from the tranny. It sounds similar to an electronic warning buzzer.
    Any idea what this might be?
    The car runs & drives fine, although I may need to adjust the carburetor/trans linkage rod as it doesn't shift into high gear until it reaches 60 mph. Any advice would be appreciated.
    Thanks, Brent

  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by Milaca

    Good day all from central Minnesota! I recently purchased a 1964 Daytona hardtop with V8 & automatic transmission. When the selector is in Park or in the Reverse position, a loud buzzing noise comes from the tranny. It sounds similar to an electronic warning buzzer.
    Any idea what this might be?
    The car runs & drives fine, although I may need to adjust the carburetor/trans linkage rod as it doesn't shift into high gear until it reaches 60 mph. Any advice would be appreciated.
    Thanks, Brent
    The buzz is the pressure regulator valve in the transmission. It's buzzing because the throttle valve linkage is out of adjustment, which is the exact same reason you are getting late upshifts.

    I'll bet you a donut that the left side tranny mount has become oil-soaked, and has sagged down, which acts to move the tranny back, and effectively "shortens" the throttle valve linkage. It is almost a given that this will happen on a well-used Studebaker.

    BTW, the linkage rod in question runs from the lower arm on the throttle bellcrank at the back of the left cylinder head, back to the throttle valve lever which shares the same axis as the manual shift valve in the tranny. Lengthening this rod at the clevis will stop the buzzing, and lower your shift speed...BUT, when you do eventually replace the rotten mount, you'll have to adjust it all over again. If you replace the mount(s) now, the linkage rod should wind up needing only minor tweaking, if at all.

    If you go to the home page of this site, there is a link to a vendors page. I'd recommend that you replace all 4 mounts: 2 under the bellhousing (the expensive ones) and the two near the front of the engine. It's not all that hard to do, and shouldn't set you back more than $150 or so. And they ARE a safety-related item. If you're going to get dirty for one mount, and you will (ask me how I know ) you may as well do 'em all at once, and be done with it.

    This should be made one of the tech FAQs, because it gets asked so often!

    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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    • #3
      Brent,
      First check the fluid leval.. do it with eng/trans warm, on level surface, trans in drive, emergency brake set or wheels chocked. Also as advised, check those mounts. If they need replacing, do that before making the adjustment. HTH
      Dan

      Road Racers turn left AND right.

      Comment


      • #4

        The buzz is the pressure regulator valve in the transmission. It's buzzing because the throttle valve linkage is out of adjustment, which is the exact same reason you are getting late upshifts.

        I'll bet you a donut that the left side tranny mount has become oil-soaked, and has sagged down, which acts to move the tranny back, and effectively "shortens" the throttle valve linkage. It is almost a given that this will happen on a well-used Studebaker.

        BTW, the linkage rod in question runs from the lower arm on the throttle bellcrank at the back of the left cylinder head, back to the throttle valve lever which shares the same axis as the manual shift valve in the tranny. Lengthening this rod at the clevis will stop the buzzing, and lower your shift speed...BUT, when you do eventually replace the rotten mount, you'll have to adjust it all over again. If you replace the mount(s) now, the linkage rod should wind up needing only minor tweaking, if at all.

        If you go to the home page of this site, there is a link to a vendors page. I'd recommend that you replace all 4 mounts: 2 under the bellhousing (the expensive ones) and the two near the front of the engine. It's not all that hard to do, and shouldn't set you back more than $150 or so. And they ARE a safety-related item. If you're going to get dirty for one mount, and you will (ask me how I know ) you may as well do 'em all at once, and be done with it.

        This should be made one of the tech FAQs, because it gets asked so often!

        Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
        [/quote]
        Thanks for your response. The previous owner did mention that he recently replaced the front engine mounts but I dont recall him mentioning the tranny mounts. I guess it would make sense that if the front mounts are bad, then the back mounts would need replacing too. As for a mount being oil soaked, I'm sure it is! The rear main seal marks its territory every time I park it in my garage by leaving a puddle on the concrete! As for tranny fluid level, I checked it properly and it is good. By the way, I recently purchased a new pan gasket and filter screen from NAPA so that I can change the fluid one of these days.
        sigpic
        In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

        Comment


        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by gordr

          If you go to the home page of this site, there is a link to a vendors page. I'd recommend that you replace all 4 mounts: 2 under the bellhousing (the expensive ones) and the two near the front of the engine. It's not all that hard to do, and shouldn't set you back more than $150 or so. And they ARE a safety-related item. If you're going to get dirty for one mount, and you will (ask me how I know ) you may as well do 'em all at once, and be done with it.
          Hey Gord, this brings up a real dumb question Can you replace the mounts one-at-a-time with the engine and trans still in the car, or do you have to pull them?

          ---------------------------
          Clark in San Diego:

          Proud new owner of a '63 Lark!

          Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

          Comment


          • #6

            Hey Gord, this brings up a real dumb question Can you replace the mounts one-at-a-time with the engine and trans still in the car, or do you have to pull them?

            ---------------------------
            Clark in San Diego:

            Proud new owner of a '63 Lark!
            [/quote]
            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

            Comment


            • #7
              That's awesome! Thanks!

              ---------------------------
              Clark in San Diego:

              Proud new owner of a '63 Lark!

              Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

              Comment


              • #8
                I looked at the tranny mounts, and they appear to be dry and in good shape. Perhaps they were replaced at some time? Anyway, i adjusted the linkage down by the tranny, and now i have no more buzzing noise and the car shifts like a new car! Thanks Gord!
                sigpic
                In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Milaca- the previous posts on the pressure regulator valve in the tranny are correct. The procedure for adjusting this is in the shop manual. I would urge you to buy one. They are in reproduction and you'll see them all the time on EBay. It's the best thing you could buy for your Daytona.

                  By the way, I too just purchased a '64 Daytona hardtop. I am beside myself with excitment.

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