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Order of disassembly

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  • Order of disassembly

    Hi all!

    Studebaker Drivers Club dues are paid and I am back to chatter. Finally was able to remove most of the trim from the rusty 50 Starlight Coupe. Also can open both the trunk and hood for the first time in 20 years. The good news is that my sister has a perfectly preserved cat skeleton for her junior high science class. HA! At least it wasn't Jimmy Hoffa.

    What should I try to remove next? The hood and front end? Rear fenders? Doors? Is there a preferred order of sheet metal removal to insure the best structural stability?

    Thanks!

  • #2
    Maybe I'm late in getting in on this. Why are you taking the car apart? Is it a restoration project, or a parts car which is being pieced out? For a moment I'll assume this is a restoration project.

    Don't take anything off (or apart) before you are actually ready to work on that part. A car takes up about 4 times it's normal space when it's in pieces, so if you don't have tons of extra room, you'll wind up with it scattered all over the place. This makes it hard to keep focused.

    Just my $.02 worth....
    Mike Sal

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    • #3
      Well, I don't know cabrina's motivation either, but if rust in the main body tub is going to be addressed, then removal of those pieces that can be would be job one. And if that's the case, I don't think there's any particular order to be adhered to.

      How badly are the floors rusted out? I have a 51 coupe and even tho the front floorboards were rotten, the "tunnel" down the middle of the floor was intact. That left me with something to hold the firewall in place with respect to the rear section of the car. I took diagonal measurements across the door openings before I removed the body from the frame to execute repairs.

      Here's a bit of hindsight advice. With the prevalence of digital cameras nowdays, take LOTS and LOTS of close-ups and orientation shots of every bit of whatever part it is you're gonna disassemble. You're gonna LOVE all those detailed pics to refer to when it's time to put that jigsaw puzzle back together!

      Miscreant at large.

      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe
      1957 President 2-dr
      1955 President State
      1951 Champion Biz cpe
      1963 Daytona project FS
      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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      • #4
        Hi Mike and Mr. Biggs,

        Thanks for the suggestions . . . particularly the digital pics and removing piece by piece to sand and prime. Am going to try a full frame off restoration since the floorboards and trunk are either weak or non-existent and the bottom plate of the frame rails is rusted though in many places (originally a Wisconsin car now safe in Tennessee). So far the main channel of the frame looks solid so I'm at least encouraged about that. I figure either a good sand blasting or chemical dip is in order. Between dad and good advice from this board maybe I can get the baby back on the road.

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        • #5
          I don't know about the order of disassembly, other than making sure everthing is labeled, but one of the Camaro websites listed the assembly process as used by Chevrolet for their Los Angeles assembly plant in the late '60's. I don't think most assembly lines are all that different. I've seen a similar chart for the Willow Run plant for the assembly of Corvairs, but obviously, this may be apples to oranges. Hunt the web and ye shall find...

          EDIT: OK, while taking a break from cutting the lawn, I found the website I was thinking of. I doubt if Studebaker was that much different from GM...

          http://www.camaros.org/assemblyprocess.shtml

          ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
          Tom - Lakeland, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona

          Michigan Speed - www.michiganspeed.com
          Club Hot Rod - www.clubhotrod.com
          LS1 Tech - www.ls1tech.com
          Tom - Bradenton, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
          1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

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          • #6
            Thanks Swifster! That is a very interesting and informative website. I do some of my best web searches during mowing rest breaks particularly in July and August, too.

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