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Need some quick help -- no run

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  • Need some quick help -- no run

    Hey guys,
    I drove my 1950 champion in to work for the second or third time today, and about halfway up the steep hill to the parking lot, it died on me. I've got it backed in to the parking lot in a non-parking space, and the security guys are giving me the hairy eyeball, wanting to tow it.

    It feels a bit like vapor lock. It's not too hot today, maybe 80 degrees. But the heat riser on the manifold was stuck partway open, and after I let it cool for a few minutes, (and put a wet rag on the fuel line to the carb, carb throat, and intake manifold) it ran for a little while, roughly, but then after a couple minutes at idle, it died again. It just doesn't want to run under any load or at temperature. It will catch briefly if I pump the accelerator while starting and running, but it won't run. The spark seems good. It's either fuel pump dead or dying (seems unlikely), vapor locked (?), or a clogged carb main jet. Anyone have any good suggestions?
    I'm going to let it cool for a couple hours to really cool the whole thing off and then try to get it home. But if there are good ideas out there, I'll try 'em.

    Thanks.

  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by chrysleritis
    It feels a bit like vapor lock. It's not too hot today, maybe 80 degrees. But the heat riser on the manifold was stuck partway open, and after I let it cool for a few minutes, (and put a wet rag on the fuel line to the carb, carb throat, and intake manifold) it ran for a little while, roughly, but then after a couple minutes at idle, it died again. It just doesn't want to run under any load or at temperature.
    I am tempted to say fuel filter, out of gas, or bad gas.

    Tom
    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

    Comment


    • #3
      Gas should be good. Gassed up with fresh gas yesterday. Which could have floated loose a bunch of crud. But the glass filter bowl contains minimal crud. No modern in-line fuel filter. Yet. That'll be one item to include pretty soon.

      Comment


      • #4
        I would eliminate vapour locks & old style fuel pump failure by installing a 6vlt. electric fuel pump.There are 2 on Ebay as we speak

        http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Ele...spagenameZWDVW
        Hope this helps--Kevin

        Comment


        • #5
          Just a after-thought;Electric fuel pumps push better than they pull,so if you decide to go this route install it as close to the tank as possible.

          Comment


          • #6
            I would put fuel tank uptake tube blockage on the possible problem list.

            Comment


            • #7
              A simple thing that gets overlooked in times like this is the condensor in the distributor. If they fail, which is rare, they do it only when they are hot and produce the symptoms you describe. They are also very cheap and easy to replace. Why not give it a try?
              Tim K.

              Tim K.
              '64 R2 GT Hawk
              Tim K.
              \'64 R2 GT Hawk

              Comment


              • #8
                Same symptoms after a cold start. Limped it home, having to crank and restart like every block. Very bad fuel flow, I think.
                I'm going with the crapped-up fuel line/carb theory. Anyone have a good suggestion for a fuel filter element? Seems hard to find an element for the glass bowl style filter which is integral to the pump. Put an in-line filter before the pump?

                Comment


                • #9
                  quote:Originally posted by chrysleritis
                  Anyone have a good suggestion for a fuel filter element? Seems hard to find an element for the glass bowl style filter which is integral to the pump. Put an in-line filter before the pump?
                  I used a plastic filter before the fuel pump, and after the fuel pump
                  on my Hawk for years. I kept the dual filter setup even after I made
                  the switch to an electic pump, and I mounted the pump at the front of
                  the car, but below the level of the fuel tank.

                  Tom
                  '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                  Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                  http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                  I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    quote:Originally posted by sbca96

                    I used a plastic filter before the fuel pump, and after the fuel pump
                    on my Hawk for years. I kept the dual filter setup even after I made
                    the switch to an electic pump, and I mounted the pump at the front of
                    the car, but below the level of the fuel tank.

                    Tom
                    Tom, you answered my question, which would be, "Is it better to put a fuel filter before or after the fuel pump, as I don't want the pump or the carb to get dirty?" But, I'm thinking that if the filter is prior to the pump, then the carb can't get dirty. And, leaving it off of the post-fuel pump side, that's one less thing that will be sticking out to pick up heat from the exhaust manifold. Anyone else have opinions on the best location for an inline fuel filter (I have a Champion six flathead)?

                    [img=left]http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/Current_Avacar.gif[/img=left] - DilloCrafter


                    1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
                    The Red-Headed Amazon

                    Paul Simpson
                    "DilloCrafter"

                    1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
                    The Red-Headed Amazon
                    Deep in the heart of Texas

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      You really only need one filter - ahead of the pump. I like a see-thru type that I can confirm gas flow by.

                      Having been an ARDENT proponent of mechanical pumps for years, I've made the switch with this Provincial. The reason is that the brand new pumps you can buy nowdays will start to leak oil out their vent holes almost immeadiatly. Being right behind the engine fan, that means mess everywhere.
                      I bought a 12V electric pump from Kragen last week and to my happy surprize, it say's Made in the USA on it! Imagine that![:0] Looks like a nice unit and mounts easily.
                      I also bought one of those universal, chrome-plated, cover plates to close up the hole where the mechanical fuel pump used to set.

                      This fuel pump has a 1 to 4lb pressure rating (although that's a bit misleading as it's not adjustable). They had another that looked the same but had a 6lb rating. That would be too much for a carb to handle. The one I bought doesn't (or at least hasn't so far) overload the old WW's needle & seat. I can always install one of those adjustable pressure regulators if it comes to that.

                      I mounted this pump on the backside of the forwardmost floor support bracket that extends outboard of the frame rail. There was a handy hole already in said bracket that allowed the outgoing fuel line to pass thru by virtue of a 90 degree hose barb. I added a see-thru fuel filter just before the pump and then wired the pump to the ignition switch. I intend to incorporate an oil pressure switch with maybe a pushbutton bypass switch to prime the carb if the car's set awhile.

                      I'm gonna do the same thing on the Transtar here soon. I'm tired of having everything under the hood lubed by the leaking fuel pump!

                      Miscreant at large.

                      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                      1960 Larkvertible V8
                      1958 Provincial wagon
                      1953 Commander coupe
                      1957 President 2-dr
                      1955 President State
                      1951 Champion Biz cpe
                      1963 Daytona project FS
                      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

                        You really only need one filter - ahead of the pump. I like a see-thru type that I can confirm gas flow by......having everything under the hood lubed by the leaking fuel pump
                        True, only ONE filter is really needed, but my Hawk had one between
                        the pump and the carb originally. I added the one before the fuel
                        pump, and just left the second one. I figured that IF the pump had
                        decided to take a dump, and somehow dumped crud into the fuel then
                        the second filter would pick it up before it got to the carb. The
                        filters are not very expensive, and they last until they clog. As for
                        the leaking mechanical pump, thats why I went to electric, also the
                        mechanical pumps CAN start pumping fuel INTO your engine, & then you
                        suddenly have a completely FULL crankcase - an explosive mixture.[:0]

                        Tom
                        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          That was one dirty carb.

                          I added a fuel filter before the pump, which I also took apart and cleaned. Fuel pump is in great shape. Carb also in very good condition, once I cleaned all the cr@p out of the jets and passages. The choke spring and levers were particularly full o'beans.

                          Runs good! as they say.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            quote:Originally posted by chrysleritis
                            I added a fuel filter before the pump .... Runs good! as they say.
                            Good to hear.

                            Tom
                            '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                            Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                            http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                            I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                            Comment

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