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53 champ brakes

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  • rockne10
    replied
    DUH!
    None of us bothered to address Kris' concern. Granted, we should encourage hands on repair, for the sake of knowledge and financial savings but he said he didn't have the tools or facilities and it was his first post.

    I remember the first time I saw the 53 brake adjusting mechanism I became quickly flustered.

    He was looking for someone in central Indiana and, while I don't know shops in the area, I do know someone in his backyard who owns Studebaker International and could probably assist him in finding the help he needs. I have emailed him that information and hope he will rejoin us to report his brakes are fully functioning.

    Leave a comment:


  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    I don't have a preference really. I usually buy Nevr-Seize but use the Permatex stuff too.

    Miscreant at large.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President 2-dr
    1955 President State
    1951 Champion Biz cpe
    1963 Daytona project FS

    Leave a comment:


  • rockne10
    replied
    I'm still young enough that could be me. Thank you very much.
    Any preference for the copper or silver? Do they have different applications?

    Leave a comment:


  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    Yeah, I confess - I use that stuff ALOT on brake parts. Lines, bolts and bleeders. It's just that I really get tweaked when one of those dainty bleeder spigots twists off! Grrrrrrrrrrrr[}]

    Fact is, I use that compound on just about everything that screws or bolts together. Too easy to use and worth it's weight in gold when you take something apart later.
    Just the other day - when reassembling the vent window units for the wagon, I put the stuff on the pivot shaft that the tensioner nut goes on. Put it on those serrated washers too. Those things gtet drenched every time it rains or the car gets a bath. That means RUST and frustration if and when they have to come apart again.
    Hopefully, that won't be in my lifetime again, but you never know. The next caretaker of the car will appreciate what I did. That's for sure.

    Miscreant at large.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President 2-dr
    1955 President State
    1951 Champion Biz cpe
    1963 Daytona project FS

    Leave a comment:


  • rockne10
    replied
    Good tip, Bob. I put that stuff on every brakeline fitting, including the hose threads and clips.

    Leave a comment:


  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    Just a little tip here. N8N made me think of this with his comment about the bleeder screws.
    I ALWAYS take the bleeder screws ALL the way out of NEW wheel cylinders and give them a good dab of anti-sieze compound! They're amazingly easy to twist off after a few years of not being disturbed And I HATE it when that happens!
    This bit of preventative preparedness will save me grief sometime down the road!

    Miscreant at large.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President 2-dr
    1955 President State
    1951 Champion Biz cpe
    1963 Daytona project FS

    Leave a comment:


  • N8N
    replied
    I second the comment about getting NEW cylinders. the only time I wouldn't do that is if I already had some known-good cores off the car. Murphy's Law says that you will end up not being able to hone out the pits in your old cylinders and/or will break a bleeder screw if you just buy the kits. Likewise, if you buy all new, your old ones will be OK so you can kit them and leave them on the shelf for your next project

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    62 Daytona hardtop
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

    Leave a comment:


  • studegary
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by ajsboy

    i don't have the tools or the facility to do rear brakes and a m/cyl overhaul. is there anyone in central Indiana that can do it correctly? thanks!
    Borrow or rent a wheel (hub) puller and buy new parts (m/c, whl. cyl's., etc.) and then go at yourself with your shop manual as a friend.

    Gary L.
    1954 Commander Starliner (restomod)
    1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)

    Leave a comment:


  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    Yeah - buy a NEW master cylinder and wheel cylinders. By the time you pay for the kits to REbuild the existing units AND the labor to have someone do it, you're better off buying new ones. And, as JDP indicates - YOU should provide the parts. Don't leave it to whatever place you have do the work to provide them. You'll pay thru the NOSE if they are the ones to acquire the parts.

    Miscreant at large.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President 2-dr
    1955 President State
    1951 Champion Biz cpe
    1963 Daytona project FS

    Leave a comment:


  • JDP
    replied
    Any shop that has the drum puller should be able to do it, just have the parts they'll need. (wheel cylinders, master cylinder, maybe shoes) BTW, I sell the MC new for $55.00.

    Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
    Studebaker News Group
    http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
    64 Daytona HT
    64 R2 4 speed Challenger
    63 R2 4 speed GT Black
    63 R2 4 speed GT White
    63 GT Hawk
    63 Avanti
    62 Daytona HT
    53 Coupe


    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest started a topic 53 champ brakes

    53 champ brakes

    i don't have the tools or the facility to do rear brakes and a m/cyl overhaul. is there anyone in central Indiana that can do it correctly? thanks!
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