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53 champ brakes

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  • 53 champ brakes

    i don't have the tools or the facility to do rear brakes and a m/cyl overhaul. is there anyone in central Indiana that can do it correctly? thanks!

  • #2
    Any shop that has the drum puller should be able to do it, just have the parts they'll need. (wheel cylinders, master cylinder, maybe shoes) BTW, I sell the MC new for $55.00.

    Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
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    http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
    64 Daytona HT
    64 R2 4 speed Challenger
    63 R2 4 speed GT Black
    63 R2 4 speed GT White
    63 GT Hawk
    63 Avanti
    62 Daytona HT
    53 Coupe


    JDP Maryland

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    • #3
      Yeah - buy a NEW master cylinder and wheel cylinders. By the time you pay for the kits to REbuild the existing units AND the labor to have someone do it, you're better off buying new ones. And, as JDP indicates - YOU should provide the parts. Don't leave it to whatever place you have do the work to provide them. You'll pay thru the NOSE if they are the ones to acquire the parts.

      Miscreant at large.

      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe
      1957 President 2-dr
      1955 President State
      1951 Champion Biz cpe
      1963 Daytona project FS
      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

      Comment


      • #4
        quote:Originally posted by ajsboy

        i don't have the tools or the facility to do rear brakes and a m/cyl overhaul. is there anyone in central Indiana that can do it correctly? thanks!
        Borrow or rent a wheel (hub) puller and buy new parts (m/c, whl. cyl's., etc.) and then go at yourself with your shop manual as a friend.

        Gary L.
        1954 Commander Starliner (restomod)
        1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)
        Gary L.
        Wappinger, NY

        SDC member since 1968
        Studebaker enthusiast much longer

        Comment


        • #5
          I second the comment about getting NEW cylinders. the only time I wouldn't do that is if I already had some known-good cores off the car. Murphy's Law says that you will end up not being able to hone out the pits in your old cylinders and/or will break a bleeder screw if you just buy the kits. Likewise, if you buy all new, your old ones will be OK so you can kit them and leave them on the shelf for your next project

          nate

          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          62 Daytona hardtop
          http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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          • #6
            Just a little tip here. N8N made me think of this with his comment about the bleeder screws.
            I ALWAYS take the bleeder screws ALL the way out of NEW wheel cylinders and give them a good dab of anti-sieze compound! They're amazingly easy to twist off after a few years of not being disturbed And I HATE it when that happens!
            This bit of preventative preparedness will save me grief sometime down the road!

            Miscreant at large.

            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
            1960 Larkvertible V8
            1958 Provincial wagon
            1953 Commander coupe
            1957 President 2-dr
            1955 President State
            1951 Champion Biz cpe
            1963 Daytona project FS
            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

            Comment


            • #7
              Good tip, Bob. I put that stuff on every brakeline fitting, including the hose threads and clips.
              "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

              Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
              Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
              sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

              Comment


              • #8
                Yeah, I confess - I use that stuff ALOT on brake parts. Lines, bolts and bleeders. It's just that I really get tweaked when one of those dainty bleeder spigots twists off! Grrrrrrrrrrrr[}]

                Fact is, I use that compound on just about everything that screws or bolts together. Too easy to use and worth it's weight in gold when you take something apart later.
                Just the other day - when reassembling the vent window units for the wagon, I put the stuff on the pivot shaft that the tensioner nut goes on. Put it on those serrated washers too. Those things gtet drenched every time it rains or the car gets a bath. That means RUST and frustration if and when they have to come apart again.
                Hopefully, that won't be in my lifetime again, but you never know. The next caretaker of the car will appreciate what I did. That's for sure.

                Miscreant at large.

                1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                1960 Larkvertible V8
                1958 Provincial wagon
                1953 Commander coupe
                1957 President 2-dr
                1955 President State
                1951 Champion Biz cpe
                1963 Daytona project FS
                No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'm still young enough that could be me. Thank you very much.
                  Any preference for the copper or silver? Do they have different applications?
                  "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

                  Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                  Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                  sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I don't have a preference really. I usually buy Nevr-Seize but use the Permatex stuff too.

                    Miscreant at large.

                    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                    1960 Larkvertible V8
                    1958 Provincial wagon
                    1953 Commander coupe
                    1957 President 2-dr
                    1955 President State
                    1951 Champion Biz cpe
                    1963 Daytona project FS
                    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      DUH!
                      None of us bothered to address Kris' concern. Granted, we should encourage hands on repair, for the sake of knowledge and financial savings but he said he didn't have the tools or facilities and it was his first post.

                      I remember the first time I saw the 53 brake adjusting mechanism I became quickly flustered.

                      He was looking for someone in central Indiana and, while I don't know shops in the area, I do know someone in his backyard who owns Studebaker International and could probably assist him in finding the help he needs. I have emailed him that information and hope he will rejoin us to report his brakes are fully functioning.
                      "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

                      Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                      sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

                      Comment

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