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  • Recommended oil

    I am changing the oil in my 60 Hawk (289)for the first time. the Owners Manual recommends 10W30. I have read a few entires in this forum about what oil should be used. Some were refering to the flat head six engines.

    What should I be using for the 289 V8? Also my car is equipped with the oil filter(canister, screw on, on top of the engine)It calls for 5 quarts. Do I need more oil if I change the filter (which I plan to do)?

    Thanks for any responses.

  • #2
    read here:



    before you pick an oil.

    good luck,

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    62 Daytona hardtop
    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

    Comment


    • #3
      as far as im concerned valvoline 15w 50 or 20-50 is good as for all studebaker engines also add stp after all studebaker did use valvoline oil in 1960 s and owned stp infact i use valvoline for all my cars including the *** cars and cruiser i have and a 1997 holden v6 ute i havent had any trouble at all for years using the oil the stude cruiser seems to love valvoline oil

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      • #4
        What brand of oil maufacturers used in the 1960s has no meaning now. All oil manufacturers have changed their oil formulations and additive packages many times since the 1960s.

        Gary L.
        1954 Commander Starliner (restomod)
        1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)
        Gary L.
        Wappinger, NY

        SDC member since 1968
        Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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        • #5
          so wat gary about the oil brands etc the oil today is far better than olden days anyway todays oil is good theres been good tests on that and valvoline come up a high reccomded oil so thats why i tell that guy which oil also ive used all types in my time and read alsorts about so dude you just change your oil mate to valvoline 15w 40 or 50 its fine with studebakers a lot of stude dudes use it i swear on that one mate yours studebakerly pete nz

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          • #6
            I can't wait to visit New Zealand.

            Comment


            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by pete

              so wat gary about the oil brands etc the oil today is far better than olden days anyway todays oil is good theres been good tests on that and valvoline come up a high reccomded oil so thats why i tell that guy which oil also ive used all types in my time and read alsorts about so dude you just change your oil mate to valvoline 15w 40 or 50 its fine with studebakers a lot of stude dudes use it i swear on that one mate yours studebakerly pete nz
              Pete, those are good points. But why not use some capitalization and punctuation so that we can figure out what you're saying more easily. It's hard enough understanding your New Zealand accent!

              [img=left]http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/Current_Avacar.gif[/img=left] - DilloCrafter


              1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
              The Red-Headed Amazon

              Paul Simpson
              "DilloCrafter"

              1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
              The Red-Headed Amazon
              Deep in the heart of Texas

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              • #8
                Some of the guys in our (South Australian) Stude club feel that using Diesel Oil is the way to go. As one of them who is an engineer and has restored several Studes and an Auburn said, "I figure if it can survive the higher compression of the Diesel Engine it'll be fine."

                Comments anyone?

                John Clements
                Avantilover, your South Australian Studebaker lover!!!
                John Clements
                Christchurch, New Zealand

                Comment


                • #9
                  I love the New Zealand accent and no need to do caps for me. Makes my mind work a little harder and that's a good thing.
                  The issue with today's oil is that many oils no longer have the additive ZDDP (I forget what it stands for). Anyway this additive is the main one that helps lubricate camshafts with flat tappets, which all our Studes have. Most new engines have roller tappets and don't need this stuff. ZDDP can be found in some oils (read the labels) and in STP. A lot of 'racing' oils have it, and I suspect a lot of diesel oils. Valvoline racing oil is one I know has it for sure.


                  Tim K.
                  '64 R2 GT Hawk
                  Tim K.
                  \'64 R2 GT Hawk

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Everyone has their preferences, and reasons for same.
                    This topic has been addressed many times and the most common recommendation, not dismissing the validity of others, is diesel grade 15W40. I use Shell Rotella in my rebuilt 289 and my un-rebuilt 1933 190 cid Rockne.
                    In any given engine or driving conditions there could be reasons why other grades could be recommended.
                    Brad Johnson,
                    SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                    '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
                    '56 Sky Hawk in process

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                    • #11
                      Ok..a comment, than a question.....My understanding is that all oils today are superior to yesterday's oil.....I've heard and believe that most engine wear takes place at start-up. That being true, I use 10-30W
                      due to industry consistency (ASE-listing). My engine has 13K rebuilt miles on it. Maybe I should use 5-30W....Now my question: Is someone suggesting that "some" oils don't "get" to the camshaft ??? Oh, and like many here (I'm guessing), I change my oil/filter every 3K miles.

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                      • #12
                        I think its safe to say that today's oils are superior to oil made when our Studebakers were made, but they are made for today's cars.

                        The additive mentioned above is a zink compound which clogs up catylitic converters, hence it has been left out of oil since the 1970s. Diesel use oil is for vehicles without converters and still contains the zink additive.

                        In addition, this additive is not needed for it's exceedingly high pressure lubricity because of the prevailing use of roller tappets. Cars without roller tappets still need it to prevent excess wear on the cam shaft lobes.

                        Tom Bredehoft
                        '53 Commander Coupe
                        '60 Lark VI
                        '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
                        All Indiana built cars

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                        • #13
                          I used the Diesel rated oil on my old high-mileage Scirocco and it passed emissions every year with flying colors, FWIW. Of course, I suspect that the cat had been gutted before I got the car and that it just was tuned right...

                          nate

                          --
                          55 Commander Starlight
                          62 Daytona hardtop
                          --
                          55 Commander Starlight
                          http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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                          • #14
                            FYI...Most of todays medium duty trucks, as well as light duty (pick-ups,etc) with diesels ALSO have catalitic convertors. EPA is expanding coverage every year.
                            Dan

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                            • #15
                              This is always a highly discussed and contested topic....
                              I have commented on this subject several times, all based upon my experience with my 54 flat six....with 79,000 miles on it.
                              I believe that modern multiweight oils are a dangerous mix in a 50 year old engine. Modern oils are;
                              -blended for emission systems sensitive to zinc and other typical old style additives used to help lubricate lifters and rings;
                              -formulated to get into tight tolerences and spaces not typical in our engines, potentially leaving parts dry or with a very thin and possibly useless film of protection;
                              -may contain synthetic ingredients which are harmful to cork and older rubber gaskets and seals;
                              -because of their "thin-ness" at temperature they cut down on the ability of the oil pump to move the oil at full pressure.
                              I have reverted to single weight heavy duty or fleet duty motor oil plus a pint of STP. After trying 30 weight HD Penzoil I have since "switched" to 40 weight.
                              With the change my engine leaks far less, runs at a higher oil pressure when at operating temperature, runs cooler on hot days and freeway speeds and, seems happier than when I was using 15-40 weight Rotella-T.
                              Anyway...that's my five quarts worth

                              "Oh That? It's a STUDEBAKER!!"

                              54 Champion Regal 2dr
                              Sedan

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