Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

61 HAWK TEMP GUAGE SENDING UNIT

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 61 HAWK TEMP GUAGE SENDING UNIT

    Where is it and does anyone sell them ?....My temp guage slowly (as engine warms up) goes to 240..........But engine is not hot....Any other thoughts ?

    1961 HAWK..BLACK.. 4bc,4-speed,TT

  • #2
    Left rear cylinder head, just below the rocker cover.

    Available from SI, SASCO and any number of other Studebaker vendors.

    Unhook the sender wire and short the circuit to determine if the problem is the sender or the gage.
    "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

    Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

    Comment


    • #3
      Here's the scenario that matches your problem. Rearmost area of the cylinder cooling jacket - where there's the "laziest" flow of coolant - accumulates crud thru the years. Stuff gets REALLY impacted back there and creates a hot spot where that sender resides. Sender reports to you what IT sees, even tho the temp in the working part of the colling system seems normal![:0][xx(]

      Cure - remove rear, block drain plugs (threaded pipe plugs) and dig around in there with a screwdriver or some other such tool until water (You'd have a hose running into the radiator while doing this) runs clear of the loosened crud.

      Hotspot eliminated - rearmost cylinders grateful to be evenly heated once again and a sender that now sees the temp of the coolant and not just the hot corner.

      NAPA's Echlin # TS6460 should be available.

      Miscreant at large.

      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe
      1957 President 2-dr
      1955 President State
      1951 Champion Biz cpe
      1963 Daytona project FS
      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

      Comment


      • #4
        Mr Biggs,
        What you say makes sense. Where are these plugs located? Can you get to them without removing anything?
        Thanks,
        Ken

        1961 HAWK..BLACK.. 4bc,4-speed,TT

        Comment


        • #5
          Ya hafta take the starter off to get to one. On the other side (bank) it should be relatively clear access.

          Miscreant at large.

          1957 Transtar 1/2ton
          1960 Larkvertible V8
          1958 Provincial wagon
          1953 Commander coupe
          1957 President 2-dr
          1955 President State
          1951 Champion Biz cpe
          1963 Daytona project FS
          No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

          Comment


          • #6
            Messy job. Do it outdoors!

            Comment


            • #7
              While you're under there, check those "freeze Plugs". If they're rusty or leaking, now is the time to replace them. With those removed, you can REALLY get that crud completely blown out. I've adapted a 3/16" piece of copper tubing about 24" long to my garden hose. At "WFO" it really does the job. As the previous poster said it's very messy. I've used a rain suit and a face shield. Our vendors sell brass replacements as well as brass drain plugs. Hope this helps.
              Dan

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for all the help guys........Now I know what my next project will be.

                1961 HAWK..BLACK.. 4bc,4-speed,TT

                Comment

                Working...
                X