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Avanti broken exhaust bolt patched, now polishing

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  • John Kirchhoff
    replied
    I just love broken off bolts! (I'm being facitious!) A good way to get a rusted on steel nut off of a steel stud without twisting off the stud is to get out the trusty old torch. Heat the nut up red hot and quench it until cool with water. The nut will loosen right up in nearly every case. This also works on those tiny little flare nuts on a brake line. Invairably the steel brake line is frozen to the nut and you twist it off when you remove the nut. Do the same thing but make sure you direct the heat more onto the nut than the line because the line will heat up a lot quicker. Quench it, wiggle it a bit and it'll back off without a problem. This method has never failed me. Just be careful when working around any fuel lines or rubber bushings or hoses. Use a piece of tin to protect those items if needed.

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  • Mike Van Veghten
    replied
    Ted is OK.....

    It's good to see someone that really understands the little things like exhaust gaskets.

    It's another one of those wives tales....that exhaust nuts/bolts JUST come loose.
    They come loose because the gasket changes shape after a few heat cycles and needs retightening...just like most head gaskets. All these little gagets that keep the manifold or header nut/bolt from spinning....don't understand the problem...it's the gasket that starts the process...
    OR...maybe they do and don't care, as long as they make a buck fixing a non-problem.

    Another kudos to Ted...

    Mike

    p.s. good job of drilling that "stud" out Tom.

    Leave a comment:


  • sbca96
    replied
    Here's the nuts I bought at Napa part number RFD STN-112-X, $1.40 ea.





    Exhaust leak cured, sounds quieter, and better than it EVER has. The
    popping is gone on deceleration - I hated that! Got the cars moved
    around, the Avanti washed - and into the garage. After work tomorrow
    I finish the polishing I started on friday.





    Tom
    Last edited by sbca96; 06-21-2010, 01:21 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • sbca96
    replied
    Parts got here, not exactly what I consider "thick" gaskets, but they
    should do the trick for a little while. Shipping was 57 bucks! Ouch!
    I didnt think it would be that much, was quoted a "high" of 50. At
    least it removes one day of worry. Going out now to button it up. I
    hope it goes back together better then it came apart!!

    Tom

    Leave a comment:


  • sbca96
    replied
    Good idea Ted .. thanks. I was also thinking of using a little bit of
    Permatex gasket sealer on JUST the one with a single missing bolt. I
    think this will help to hold it in place, & maybe give a little extra
    sealing pressure. I figure it cant hurt. It will make it more of a
    mess to clean later, but hopefully the next time I remove them I will
    be rebuilding/replacing the engine.

    Tom

    Leave a comment:


  • Chicken Hawk
    replied
    Be sure to re-torque the bolts after you get it hot once and this may help the gasket to last a little longer. The composition type gaskets will usually compress a little more after they have been hot.

    Ted

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  • sbca96
    replied
    I got some from a Napa here, they are about a 1/2 thick though! I also
    got some lock washers and regular washers. Chased the threads in the
    head, after taking off the passenger side manifold, I found that the
    front bolt is broken off too. I forgot that was broken, "temporarily"
    put it together with the 5 bolts about 10 years ago!

    I did such a good job drilling out the broken bolt in the manifold, I
    wanted to post pictures! Usually when I do this, I am off center and
    end up ruining half the threads, this came out nice! (BTW its the one
    on the right) :



    Here is the bolt threads that came out the backside :







    Now I just need the thick gaskets from S.I. (should be here tomorrow)
    & I can put it back together, wash the car, and get it in the garage!

    Tom
    Last edited by sbca96; 06-21-2010, 01:20 PM.

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  • N8N
    replied
    they're still sold as "manifold nuts" under the Pik-A-Nut brand, if you have a FLAPS that carries same.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

    Leave a comment:


  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    Brass fine thread nuts aren't that easy to find. I come to realize this a couple years ago when I was determined to have some for an exhaust system. I wound up having a fastener specialty place order me a box of 50. Lifetime supply, I'd guess. Cheaper that way tho.

    Miscreant at large.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President 2-dr
    1955 President State
    1951 Champion Biz cpe
    1963 Daytona project FS

    Leave a comment:


  • sbca96
    replied
    Yah .. I seem to remember taking off an original one, and the nut fell
    apart, leaving usable threads. I will see if I can get some.

    On the passenger side I replaced the manifold years ago, & I just used
    standard steel nuts, but I used anti-seize. It came apart fine.

    Tom

    Leave a comment:


  • N8N
    replied
    Just for the record, the factory used brass nuts on the manifold studs, as well as on the carb studs. One of those thoughtful little things they did for us that sadly some mechanics don't seem to have appreciated over the years

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

    Leave a comment:


  • sbca96
    replied
    OK .. the exhaust manifold bolt is out. I must say this is the BEST
    job I have ever done drilling out a bolt. The threads are virtually
    undamaged! With these results, if I HAD a good access to the head, I
    would try it there (I did a bolt in the SAME location on my 93 Camaro
    Z28, that car has aluminum heads so the stakes are higher!). I just
    dont think that I can get in there, so it will have to wait. I think
    that with the 5 bolts, and the thick gaskets I ordered, it will be OK
    for the show (which I might have failed to mention includes a cruise!).
    I did such a good job of drilling on center, I got a couple threads
    of the old bolt out the bottom! I will stop by Napa and pick up some
    studs to put in, and the shop foreman here suggested BRASS nuts.[:I]

    Studebaker International said they will ship my parts TODAY, and as I
    mentioned I paid for "next day".[B)]

    Tom

    Leave a comment:


  • dclewallen
    replied
    I also recommend the welding method. Worked for me on an aluminum intake with two tries and also on two square headed oil passage plugs I asked about in another post with only one try. Theres always left handed drill bits but due to rust they most likely would not work,

    Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.

    Leave a comment:


  • CHAMP
    replied
    I haven't looked at a Stude v/8 head recently but on a 390 ford that had your same problem Iwas able to rig a c-clamp to help hold the head and manifold together. the way your luck has been running you probably can't do that on a Stude. Another method I've used with some luck is to clean area and smear muffler-exhaust sealer on manifold-head area. I had one car that lasted over a year before it leaked again. These are kind of make-shift repairs but your running out of time and the sealer just might work for you. If you decide to try the sealer make sure you let it set up overnight before you start the engine.The stuff I used is called Qualco muffler-weld repair and sealer. This may seem shade-tree but if it gets you to the show and back it might be worth a try. BTW, I bought thatsealer at NAPA.

    GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

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  • sbca96
    replied
    Unfortunately I dont know how to weld, and my source for welding isnt
    too keen on attempting this for me. I will be doing the drill and tap
    deal on the manifold. The broken bolt in the head will just have to
    stay that way. I cant pull the head right now, besides I think that
    will just open another can of worms that wont get resolved by Friday.

    I know that the rear gasket will most likely blow out in a few hundred
    miles, but that gets me to the show just fine! I ordered the exhaust
    gaskets from SI in the thick composition style. I was just hoping if
    someone had a trick for getting to that rear bolt, I would give it a
    shot before putting things back together. I know its not the "right"
    way to do it, but I dont want to miss the show over this.

    I also ordered the center rubber front bumper cushion.

    Thanks for the help! I am sure someone will benefit also from reading.

    Tom

    Leave a comment:

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