Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Avanti broken exhaust bolt patched, now polishing

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Be sure to re-torque the bolts after you get it hot once and this may help the gasket to last a little longer. The composition type gaskets will usually compress a little more after they have been hot.

    Ted

    Comment


    • #17
      Good idea Ted .. thanks. I was also thinking of using a little bit of
      Permatex gasket sealer on JUST the one with a single missing bolt. I
      think this will help to hold it in place, & maybe give a little extra
      sealing pressure. I figure it cant hurt. It will make it more of a
      mess to clean later, but hopefully the next time I remove them I will
      be rebuilding/replacing the engine.

      Tom
      '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
      Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
      http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
      I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

      Comment


      • #18
        Parts got here, not exactly what I consider "thick" gaskets, but they
        should do the trick for a little while. Shipping was 57 bucks! Ouch!
        I didnt think it would be that much, was quoted a "high" of 50. At
        least it removes one day of worry. Going out now to button it up. I
        hope it goes back together better then it came apart!!

        Tom
        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

        Comment


        • #19
          Here's the nuts I bought at Napa part number RFD STN-112-X, $1.40 ea.





          Exhaust leak cured, sounds quieter, and better than it EVER has. The
          popping is gone on deceleration - I hated that! Got the cars moved
          around, the Avanti washed - and into the garage. After work tomorrow
          I finish the polishing I started on friday.





          Tom
          Last edited by sbca96; 06-21-2010, 01:21 PM.
          '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
          Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
          I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

          Comment


          • #20
            Ted is OK.....

            It's good to see someone that really understands the little things like exhaust gaskets.

            It's another one of those wives tales....that exhaust nuts/bolts JUST come loose.
            They come loose because the gasket changes shape after a few heat cycles and needs retightening...just like most head gaskets. All these little gagets that keep the manifold or header nut/bolt from spinning....don't understand the problem...it's the gasket that starts the process...
            OR...maybe they do and don't care, as long as they make a buck fixing a non-problem.

            Another kudos to Ted...

            Mike

            p.s. good job of drilling that "stud" out Tom.

            Comment


            • #21
              I just love broken off bolts! (I'm being facitious!) A good way to get a rusted on steel nut off of a steel stud without twisting off the stud is to get out the trusty old torch. Heat the nut up red hot and quench it until cool with water. The nut will loosen right up in nearly every case. This also works on those tiny little flare nuts on a brake line. Invairably the steel brake line is frozen to the nut and you twist it off when you remove the nut. Do the same thing but make sure you direct the heat more onto the nut than the line because the line will heat up a lot quicker. Quench it, wiggle it a bit and it'll back off without a problem. This method has never failed me. Just be careful when working around any fuel lines or rubber bushings or hoses. Use a piece of tin to protect those items if needed.

              Comment

              Working...
              X