Caddy Tripower

[buddymander]

Well, I finally got me an intake off eBay. I was matching the ports up with a stude gasket and have decided to redrill the heads. I figure first chase the threads then run some short allen head studs down below the surface and weld the top 3/8". But I'm wondering if the stude head offset matches the caddy offset? I hope I can use stock caddy gaskets. Next it's off to the junkyard for a few Rochesters. Do I run the idle screws like 1 1/2 turns out on the end carbs? Or do I really need that to help with transition? No way I'm gonna search out original three deuce end carbs.

[whacker]

You don't need the idle circuit on the outside carbs at all. Just crank the idle screws shut on the front and back ones. Set the idle on the center carb and use a progressive linkage. That way you are only using the center carb most of the time. I've seen the setup with Rochester 2G and 2GC carbs, but I think it looks a lot cooler with three Stromberg WW's. Same setup.

[JDP]

I think the main problem you'll have is the port mismatch with a Caddy mainifold. You can bolt it on, but the port alignment is not great.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Daytona Convert.

[buddymander]

Thanks for the carb info. I know the port alignment isn't perfect, but I figured I could do some porting. I'm concerned about the head offset. One head is further forward to compensate for the rod offset on the crank. Are studebaker and cadillac identical in that sense?

[whacker]

The offset for the heads is the same. The best way to mount the Caddy manifold is to make a set of adapters from aluminum or stainless steel. Use 1/4 inch X 1 3/4 stock plate, drill the holes to match the intake manifold holes and bolt the two plates together. Then use a Studebaker intake gasket and a cadillac intake gasket as a template to mark the four outside holes - don't open the center (heater) holes. Mill or drill and file the intake holes. Once you are at this point, you can unbolt the two plates and mark the studebaker side and the caddy side with blue die, using the intake manifolds as templates. File (or mill) the correct angles to match the intake holes together. Use studebaker intake gaskets on the head side and cadillac intake gaskets on the manifold side. This will require slotting the mounting holes on the four outside corners of the Cadillac manifold, and cutting the webs out and slotting the four center mounting holes on the intake manifold. The manifold is thus modified to be used on a Studebaker, however, it could still be used on a Cadillac if anybody really wanted to. There are other ways to do this, but this way will give the best flow. If you have the Dick Dotson book on Studebaker modifcations, he gives another method using modified SBC intake gaskets, but that method is more for looks than performance.

[buddymander]

You guys are making me anxious to get started on this project. I want the whole thing to look original. No adapters or extra gaskets. I'm willing to do a lot of head work. I guess it's time to order all new valves and thin head gaskets and find a cadillac intake gasket. I'm gonna have only one angle cut on the seats to give better heat transfer. When I get this all done, I want to tackle putting a ford AOD tranny bolted up to the original stude bellhousing with an adapter after I cut off the AOD bell. Same speedo setup and driveshaft yoke. Where's good sources for all these parts?

[whacker]

If you decide to go with the Rochester 2G or 2GC carbs, be careful which ones you buy. There are two basic castings, commonly known as the "side feeder" and the "back feeder". This refers to the location of the gasoline inlet. The ones with the gas inlet on the back (the "back feeder") do not give you enough clearance to put three carbs in line. I have seen special fittings in Jegs and Summit that are supposed to let you use them, but the better solution is to use the "side feeder" carbs, with the gas inlet on the side. These command a premium price for just this reason. The progressive linkage is still available new, as well as the extended throttle shafts this conversion requires. Much of what you need to get is available at:

http://www.vintagespeed.com/

If you decide to go with the Stromberg WW setup, you won't have this problem, as they are all "side feeders". The backdraft WW's won't work tho.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Well, it can't really look original, as Stude never built a tri-power setup.
You won't need adapter plates for the caddy intake manifold.
You will just have to machine the end bolt (holes) bosses inward (a lot) and use Allen head cap screws. Moving the bolt holes in the heads will work also, but sounds like a pita.
The port alignment between a Caddy and a Stude heads suck, but with some work you can make it run ok... The step will be severe unless you massage both the heads and the intake.
You will also run into some distributor interference, and front oil fill tube interference, as this manifold is real long...
But, if you are up for the challenge, you can get a pretty decent looking setup. Run a progressive linkage and you can get good mileage and still have some perky Stude fun...
Pic's of the manifold (port) comparison are up at:
http://community.webshots.com/album/381212676dSxDZl
You are on your own with your A/OD idea (but keep us informed)
You can buy a great adapter for a GM trans from Meyer's Studebaker that works great. Then you can run a 700R4 (or whatever the newer model trans is...200R4?) I've done several 700R4 conversions, and you will need to build a trans mount crossmember and shorten the driveshaft, as well as make a TV cable mount and and build a shift setup. I'd be curious to see what a Fomoco swap actually would involve..
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by buddymander

You guys are making me anxious to get started on this project. I want the whole thing to look original. No adapters or extra gaskets. I'm willing to do a lot of head work. I guess it's time to order all new valves and thin head gaskets and find a cadillac intake gasket. I'm gonna have only one angle cut on the seats to give better heat transfer. When I get this all done, I want to tackle putting a ford AOD tranny bolted up to the original stude bellhousing with an adapter after I cut off the AOD bell. Same speedo setup and driveshaft yoke. Where's good sources for all these parts?

[ROADRACELARK]

Jeff,
Then there's always the Caddy 2X4 intake. I think is is shorter than the 3X2. I do have one, and they can be made to work. Main drawback is they use the early square base carbs. would be a tight fit with 2 AFBs,
but boy would it look impressive.
Dan
RRL

[DEEPNHOCK]

If anyone is interested.....
I have one of those dual quad caddy manifolds available right now that has the AFB adapter plates (custom, thin plates) added to drop later model AFB's right on there.. It's tight all right
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by ROADRACELARK

Jeff,
Then there's always the Caddy 2X4 intake. I think is is shorter than the 3X2. I do have one, and they can be made to work. Main drawback is they use the early square base carbs. would be a tight fit with 2 AFBs,
but boy would it look impressive.
Dan
RRL

[buddymander]

I needta find a stude block and crank and bell and flywheel to see about settin up that AOD. My car might be down way too long and I just got a new valve in it and hittin on all eigh so I'm leavin it together at least til I get three deuces setup.